Overweight and bored YNA, but encouraging activity leads to weight gain or fear!

OB1

New member
Nov 23, 2019
1
0
Parrots
Yellow Naped Amazon (F), ~30 years old
I have an overweight (~565g, should be ~525g) and bored ~30 year old female YNA. I have read through the stickied Amazon posts, and I can't figure out how to fix boredom without weight gain. The vet says I can no longer cut food and need to get my bird to be active. The active behaviors I want are encouraged with treats, but I can barely encourage them with the treats I've given her and ultimately she gains weight because the calories she ingests from the treats are more than the calories she burns from any activity she did.

Not to mention that the simplest foraging toys (again, more calories ingested than burned) and most toys in general frustrate her to no end - if she isn't scared of it first. Target training to get over fears works up until the toy is on her cage for about 10 seconds and then she does an emotional 180 and attacks it. The only time I've seen her burn energy is when she's trying desperately to remove toys from her cage that are quicklinked to the bars. I would like her to burn calories through something other than aggression, of course. The things I've tried or want to try are listed below in more detail.

1) Flight training. Getting her to flap her wings leads to her hating whatever object she was perched on during the practice, despite the frequent use of a clicker and treats. If it was my arm, she won't step up for a week. If it was a stick, the stick now induces a fear response. The description in the sticky of holding your bird and lightly tossing them onto a bed is light years away from us right now. I've also tried target training and sloooowly inching 2 perches apart until the bird flies between them. No success - just a very frustrated bird that won't even step up afterwards.

2) Foraging. Teaching her with the simplest foraging toys doesn't seem to be working, and again she ends up consuming more calories than she burns anyway. I don't want to starve her by moving her regular pellets or fresh food into a place that's just going to frustrate her. I got her used to skewers but in moving them slightly farther away from her food bowl each day, I've found a limit of a few inches from her food bowl before she just ignores the skewer entirely. She doesn't like leafy greens or most vegetables for that matter, so that puts further restraints on the foraging options.

3) Toys. She has some wood blocks that she sometimes chews, and 1 puzzle toy that dispenses a treat that she solves in about 30 seconds as she's had the toy for years. She had bells for a bit but she only attacks them when she's overstimulated or angry that she's not on my arm. She ends up biting her own legs, and has even thrown herself off the cage in the process of attacking one of the bigger bells, so those have been taken away. Overall, she doesn't understand most toys and my exaggerated attempts to show her how much fun *I* think they are don't interest her. On top of that, she's scared of most things. If I do get her to be comfortable with an object with target training (no fear response, reaching out to the toy slowly to inspect it, maybe lightly checking it out with her beak/tongue, and then general disinterest where she goes back to standing upright and is looking at my hand for more treats) she will continue to act curious of it when it's placed on her cage, and then a few seconds later she'll do an emotional 180. She'll run at the toy, attack it, and throw it overboard.

4) Target training. I can get her to bite the end of the stick, but all tricks seem out of reach for her short of getting her to walk between two perches as mentioned above. Also again with the treats and her being overweight. I tried using fruit instead of almonds for treats, but she doesn't recognize her favorite fruits when they are cut up small enough to be treat rewards. I use pieces of almond slices instead of fruit but limit the training to 2 or 3 times a week because of it.

5) Climbing. Something I think she would be good at but given how scared she is of most new things, I can't imagine her being happy with a huge net or ladder that's bigger than her. Besides, I need to encourage her to climb the net and again I'm left with food being the only thing that encourages her to move or explore. I also rent my place, so my ability to drill things into the walls is limited.

Ultimately my two questions are: 1) What am I supposed to address first, and 2) How?
 

Betrisher

Well-known member
Jun 3, 2013
4,253
177
Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Parrots
Dominic: Galah(RIP: 1981-2018); The Lovies: Four Blue Masked Lovebirds; Barney and Madge (The Beaks): Alexandrines; Miss Rosetta Stone: Little Corella
My Galah was seriously overweight when I inherited him. He had huge lipomas hanging down his front and behind his vent. He weighed 610g, about twice as much as he should. We began by changing him to a completely pelletted diet with daily veggies added (no fruit: useless sugar). Trying to get him to move was a challenge because, as far as I could tell, he had sat, stationary, in his cage for roughly seven and a half years. When he arrived, he was cage aggressive and reluctant to do anything except sit still.

My husband rigged up a playgym out of 1" pvc piping. This was a rectangular construction with swings, a boing and a 'spiral staircase' of perches. The first aim was to get Dommie to climb a three-foot ladder from the top of the fridge (where he liked hanging out all day) up to the hanging playgym, where his food would be situated in a cup taped to one or another of the perches. He had to clamber about the playgym in order to eat anything. Long story short: it worked. It took most of a year, but we whittled him down to 350g.

As soon as he appeared to be enjoying being more active (or at least, hating it less), I began to encourage him to flap his wings. He had never flown, but would flap occasionally and then shake his head as if he hadn't really meant to. (He was an adorable and funny old boy). One day, I held out a hand full of sunflower seed (his absolute favourite, which he got about once every Ash Wednesday) and asked him to fly from the back of a chair to the kitchen table. To my utter surprise, he did! Two flaps and he had FLOWN! It was easy to simply increase the distance until he was able to fly the length of the house. By then, his weight was down to reasonable levels and it didn't take much longer to shed it all.

Sadly, the lipomas never quite went away. Our vet assured me they were 'harmless', but he was wrong. Where I live there is just one avian specialist vet and he's not easy to get to. When Dommie began to have neurological issues, we eventually got an appointment with the specialist and he said the lipomas often become malignant and that's what happened to Dommie. The cancer had spread into his testes and from there into his CNS. The vet believed he could probably remove the cancer, but Dommie died that night, far away from the home and people he loved.

Don't stop trying to get the weight off your bird! Her life depends on it!

Things you could try.

A free-standing playgym arrangement that has to be climbed in order to secure food.

A cargo net (instructions are in our DIY section) with portions of your bird's daily diet tied up in paper packets and attached to it.

Since she already targets, make her fly short distances each day to get food.

Wrap portions of her food in paper or cardboard, or put it in an egg carton filled with shredded paper so she has to search for it (not treats, mind, but her daily rations).

I don't know whether she likes to swing, but my corella spends most of her waking day swinging and climbing the complicated system of ropes I've got in her cage. The Alexandrines aren't interested, but Rosetta couldn't survive without her daily workout on her rope gym!

'Setta began rope-climbing slowly. I began by dangling a rope in front of her on the floor. She grabbed it and began to climb it to reach me, so I took hold of both ends so she was swinging in mid-air. This developed into a game until it was all she wanted to do. That was when I had to add lots of rope to her cage, since the opportunity for exercise seemed too good to miss. As I said, not every bird likes rope, but it might work for yours?

If nothing else works, keep your bird walking. I don't normally allow my birds on the floor for safety reasons, but if needs must... I'd drag a treat along on the end of a string and use it as a 'carrot' to make your bird walk along behind you in order to catch it.

Best of luck! I hope some of this has been of assistance. Sometimes, we have to really think sideways to stay ahead of these birds of ours, but if you compare brain size, ours is supposed to work best, being bigger. LOL! I said 'supposed': sometimes I can't figure things out to save my life! :)

PS. I forgot to add that our pvc playgym was wrapped completely in vet-wrap for safety.
 
Last edited:

AmyMyBlueFront

Well-known member
Apr 14, 2015
6,315
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3,034
Connecticut
Parrots
Amy a Blue Front 'Zon
Jonesy a Goffins 'Too who had to be rehomed :-(

And a Normal Grey Cockatiel named BB who came home with me on 5/20/2016.
Amy my BFA just turned 30 the other day. He has been with me since he was four months old. He never fledged ( my mistake) and doesn't fly,doesn't want to fly,would rather walk or hitch a ride with me. He got FAT (548g)! Now is down to 507. Diet helped a lot. No seed at all,smaller portions,fresh veggies and fruit (even though I find a lot of it on his basement papers :eek:) At one of his last wellness checks his doc found he has a heart problem now ( plaque in an artery) and has to take meds every day now) Fortunately he enjoys his flapflap lessons. I'm not sure how to help you here. Make him work for his goodies? Amy loves "boxes on a rope" where I can hide a treat (usually a nutraberry)

good luck.

Jim
 

charmedbyekkie

New member
May 24, 2018
1,148
82
US/SG
Parrots
Cairo the Ekkie!
One of our members, Chris, has actually made two great videos that help with this.


Here's one for clicker training (without the clicker), which he then leads into target training:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3ahhijXxbM"]From clicker training (without the clicker!) to target training: the run up to flighted recall - YouTube[/ame]

My favorite is the really great video for birds who don't really fly. He breaks down each step really well and shows how to progress from targeting to flight. I can't say how much I love this video (even though our guy has always flown).
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DomDr-dXZtU"]Evolution of parrot flight recall training, a tutorial on how to recall train your parrot - YouTube[/ame]



Hope this helps for clicker training, target training, and flight training!
 

SailBoat

Supporting Member
Jul 10, 2015
17,658
10,038
Western, Michigan
Parrots
DYH Amazon
YNA's have a very wide variation regarding size and therefore weight! Close friends have a Male YNA, which is 40 yrs old, and is active and flighted. He is tall/ big and sits just above 600g.

The largest muscles that Birds have are their flight muscles. Anytime a Parrot uses their Wings, they work the heart, the air sacks, and clearly their flight muscles. The effect is massive, even greater than Humans using our leg muscles. The flow of oxygen into the entire body will be like a wake-up call for your Amazon.

Warning: Double edge sword!!! Your Avian Professional needs to complete a detailed evaluation of the status of your YNA's heart. Years of questionable diet and no flight can equal serious heart issues.

As noted above, getting your Amazon to flap its wings is very important to assure it long life. Assuring that its heart is healthy is step number one! Unless you ask, most general Vets will not complete a detailed evaluation unless you ask.
 

fiddlejen

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2019
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New England
Parrots
Sunny the Sun Conure (sept '18, gotcha 3/'19). Mr Jefferson Budgie & Mrs Calliope Budgie (albino) (nov'18 & jan'19). Summer 2021 Baby Budgies: Riker (Green); Patchouli, Keye, & Tiny (blue greywings).
2) Foraging. Teaching her with the simplest foraging toys doesn't seem to be working, and again she ends up consuming more calories than she burns anyway. I don't want to starve her by moving her regular pellets or fresh food into a place that's just going to frustrate her. I got her used to skewers but in moving them slightly farther away from her food bowl each day, I've found a limit of a few inches from her food bowl before she just ignores the skewer entirely. She doesn't like leafy greens or most vegetables for that matter, so that puts further restraints on the foraging options.

Wrap portions of her food in paper or cardboard, or put it in an egg carton filled with shredded paper so she has to search for it (not treats, mind, but her daily rations.

If she refuses to forage beyond her food bowl at first, try wrapping some portion of her daily pellets in a twist of coffee filter or paper towel, and leave the packet(s) IN her food dish to start. After a while -- ( few days / weeks / months if need-be) -- as she catches on, move the foraging packets gradually further away and/or make them more complex.
 

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