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Old 01-13-2019, 08:19 PM
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Re: My good ol bird Bob who wants nothing to do with me...

Budgies are just a species (along with other parakeet species) that would rather not be too close to humans once they pass puberty. Sometimes you do hear of ones who bond and cuddle, but that comes down to individual personality, and it’s not the norm. Mine were co-parented by humans, but once my male became mature, he became more weary of hands. My hen will still step up, but she’d rather not have direct human interaction.

I’d remove the mirror. A lot of budgies get obsessed with the reflection, and constantly regurgitate on it. It can create problems and is not considered a mentally healthy bird toy. Especially when nowdays there are so many other great types of bird toys to choose from.

Last edited by RavensGryf; 01-13-2019 at 08:22 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:57 PM
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Re: My good ol bird Bob who wants nothing to do with me...

He going to be a tough one it seem. You likely have to sat in front of his cage for a while, so he see you constantly and then put hand in cage with spray millet, a few time he won't go for it don't be discourage, but after a while temptation will get the best of him. I would leave your hand in cage for a few minutes at a time. This will help him associate your hand with a positive thing. Try also using a long stick, or perch and see if he step on to that? If none of that works and all fails then let him come out of his cage on his own and close door. Read below.

Some birds are use to being cage bound as we call it. To break cage aggression you have to get him out of what consider his safe spot and out of his cage, also moving the cage to a different area some times works. Let him outside of cage, don't go near yet and let him explore outside the cage and if you can put a perch outside his cage.

If bird not clipped. Keep the cage in an area that you do not walk past regularly and that he won't be able to fly out of the room. So that you only approach the cage for training and feeding and bird can find his way back to the food and can get him back in cage without having to grab him, as eventually will go back into his cage as his safe spot and food. My cockatiels did when taming them, never had to grab them. First step is to approach the cage calmly and slowly. As soon as you see your bird show signs of DISCOMFORT, immediately stop where you are and don't move. Don’t make any sudden noises movements with your arms etc. Avoid eye contact. It may make you appear like a predator. Once your bird calms down turn around and walk away from the cage. Repeat, repeat, repeat and the bird’s flight distance will decrease, till he comfortable with you standing in front of him, don't put your hand out yet, give him a break.

Once you can reach the cage without the bird flying away, start the same technique but this time with just your hand approaching the cage. (ie. first lift your hand until the bird calms down, then put your hand back down and walk away. Then lift your hand a little higher towards the cage, wait for your bird to be calm, then put your hand down and walk away etc). Once your bird is happy for you to stand next to the cage and put your hand up to the cage, drop a treat into its food bowl and walk away. Now this is like positive reinforcement on steroids. Not only does your bird feel calm when you approach, it now gets a treat too and see your hand as a positive thing! Once he accept treats from your hand and 'step up' onto your hand, then you can teach him to step up on command and get him away from cage. Just put one finger under his chest to get him to step up to it and do this a few times with breaks in between while repeating the command.

I have other methods, but try this first usually works.

Last edited by ParrotGenie; 01-13-2019 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:44 PM
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Re: My good ol bird Bob who wants nothing to do with me...

Take the mirrors out. He probably thinks they are his mates and doesn't need you because he has 2 perfectly good mates staring at him at all times and they never leave him. Toss the mirrors and wait a bit and Bob should come around. Taking the mirrors out isn't cruel...I think having the mirrors is more cruel Because it's like a Truman Show type deal... it's sad and fake. I hope you are able to tame Bob aftrer that. Also don't be too afraid of getting bitten... it's not that bad from a budgie. I volunteer at a bird sanctuary and I know from experience that the best way to get bitten is to show fear. Yes I do get bitten anyways sometimes but meh...it hurts less and less andis just annoying to have to go bandage up in the middle of cleaning 70 or so cages....
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:39 PM
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Re: My good ol bird Bob who wants nothing to do with me...

Quote: Originally Posted by Sunnyclover View Post
Take the mirrors out. He probably thinks they are his mates and doesn't need you because he has 2 perfectly good mates staring at him at all times and they never leave him. Toss the mirrors and wait a bit and Bob should come around. Taking the mirrors out isn't cruel...I think having the mirrors is more cruel Because it's like a Truman Show type deal... it's sad and fake. I hope you are able to tame Bob aftrer that. Also don't be too afraid of getting bitten... it's not that bad from a budgie. I volunteer at a bird sanctuary and I know from experience that the best way to get bitten is to show fear. Yes I do get bitten anyways sometimes but meh...it hurts less and less andis just annoying to have to go bandage up in the middle of cleaning 70 or so cages....
Mirror are usually bad, it case by case. One thing is I usually don't recommend grabbing the bird unless it last recourse and everything else failed. Even then use a towel, so bird see that towel as a predator and not your hand. Plus bird will give in in time, but will be harder to bond to that bird and take longer. Best bet is to do positive reinforcement first and give it time.

I dealt with bird that were abused and even then tame and bonded to them in about 1-2 months and step up in about 1-2 weeks without having to force the bird and ones people had for a year, or more and gave up on. One thing your correct on is don't show fear, or reaction.
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Old 01-14-2019, 11:08 AM
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Re: My good ol bird Bob who wants nothing to do with me...

We took in some umpf-hands budgies (no idea how many owners they had before us) when I was little and one of them almost succeeded in putting me off birds for ever.

The only interaction she wanted was to bites pieces out of our fingernails (through the bars)-- this was a never/ no longer tamed budy.



All I want to say: every bird is different.


(Hearing people tell you "*I* had no probems with bla bla bla", is NOT helpfull, let them just try to give you some help instead of boasting...)


Just keep trying, but learn to read her bodylanguage to see if he feel like interacting and stop when you think you are pushing too hard.

You have read the sticky about 'bonding'? Tips for Bonding and Building Trust


You can decide everyday that this is the first day you and your parrot have met and just go from there, you can always go back to the beginning.
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Old 01-14-2019, 12:58 PM
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Re: My good ol bird Bob who wants nothing to do with me...

Welcome to the community!

I have a long history of owning/breeding/hand-raising Budgies, and they really are no different than any other species of parrot, so try not to think of them/him as such. They are extremely intelligent, and also extremely social.

As far as diet goes, Budgies are a bit more difficult to get onto a pellet-staple, but what usually helps is to buy a seed-mix that has appropriately sized pellets in it. Usually these are going to be fruit-pellets, so higher in sugar, but the up-side is that the seeds in these mixes are on the lower-fat, healthier side. So look for the higher-quality Budgie-sized seed-mixes that also contain pellets, such as the Kaytee Forti-Diet (not their "Fiesta" mixes), the Zupreem Budgie mixes, etc.

***Try to stay away from giving him fruit every day, as it's loaded with sugar, and should be thought of as a treat, just like a millet-spray or a honey-seed-stick. What he should have every single day is fresh veggies and dark, leafy greens along with his staple of a seed-mix with pellets in it. Fruit should only be 2 times a week or so, and in small quantities. Budgies usually LOVE all of the dark, leafy greens, such as Kale, Bok Choy, Collards, Mustard, Turnip, Dandelion, Arugula/Rocket, Swiss Chard, etc. I just clip a large piece of dark, leafy greens to the cage bars at the end of a perch with a clothes-pin or clip, and they usually go nuts over it...Also love Broccoli if you just break-off the flowers into small pieces...With Budgies and food it's all about making it a small enough size for them to even attempt eating it.

Also make sure he has both a Cuttlebone and a Mineral Block.

***I always let all of my Budgies have one toy with a mirror in it or just one round mirror, especially in your situation where he's by himself and isn't yet bonded to you. They love a mirror, and it has never caused any of my Budgies to become hormonal or stop wanting to be with me. That's not how Budgies work. They love the cheap, plastic bird-toys, all of them, so as many as you can comfortably fit into his cage the better, along with one of those plastic bathtubs with the mirror in the bottom, I fill it with luke-warm water once a day for them, they love it.

Now as far as your bird in particular, Was he closely-bonded to your grandmother?
Did he regularly step-up for her and allow her to touch/pet him? Or has he never been a hands-on kind of Budgie with anyone?
As already mentioned, most Budgies, especially if they come from a pet shop and not a private-breeder, are parent-raised and that is why they are not at all hand-tame. I have hand-tamed probably 50 or more parent-raised Budgies from the age of 16, and though a lot of people disagree with how I do it, it works quickly, does not hurt them in any way, and is temporary (about 2 months)...and that is by clipping their wings. When you clip their wings it does 2 different things, #1 it makes them much more willing to accept you helping them, for example they hate being on the floor, so a bird who would never before step-up for you will usually step right up the first time they are on the floor and you offer your finger to them. This builds trust quickly and lets the bird know that you are trustworthy and not scary or out to hurt them...and #2 it eliminates them constantly flying away from you while you're doing hand-taming sessions, and allows them to focus on working with you...Plus it eliminates you chasing them all around the room/house, which eliminates and ruins trust quicker than anything else...

If you do decide to clip his wings/have them clipped by a professional (it is totally a personal choice to be made by only the bird's owner), you want them to only clip the outermost 5-6 Primary Flight-Feathers on BOTH wings...This will allow him to be able to glide to the floor with total control, and it will ensure that his flight-feathers will grow back-in fully in about 2 months, which means you must take full-advantage of that 2-months that you have with him by doing hand-taming/step-up training/recall-training every single day, so by the time his wings grow back-in you will have earned his trust and he will be recall-trained, so that he'll fly to you when you call him and you will never have to chase him. Also, always do your daily training sessions in a room away from his cage, as that is his "territory" and his "safe space", and if he can see it he's only going to concentrate on getting back to it the whole time...You have to get him out of his comfort zone...
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Old 01-14-2019, 02:12 PM
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Re: My good ol bird Bob who wants nothing to do with me...

How old do you think Bob is? And did your Gramma let him out of his cage at all? If you have had him for a year,I'd think that he should be used to you and his new environment by now. Maybe he just likes to do his own thing IDK.
Try opening his door and see if he ventures out. But make SURE that the room you have him in has the door closed...you wouldn't want to be chasing him around the house if he decides he wants to fly about! And make sure there are no other animals in the same room (i.e. kitty or doggo). If he does come out and perches on his door or climbs to his roof top just talk calmly to him..maybe lay a piece of millet next to him. Budgies are such darling little guys and so much fun



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