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Old 11-08-2020, 06:45 PM
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Caique vs Mini-Macaws

Hi,
Which one would you recommend that is kid-friendly? talks? cuddles? flys? etc.
Thanks,
Rocky
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Old 11-08-2020, 07:12 PM
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Re: Caique vs Mini-Macaws

Welcome!

Eeek.. You have a lot of research to do...To answer your question, neither. No parrot does all of these things with certainty (even if they are capable). This is a scary question. I hope you stick around and do a lot more research from non-"pet" websites (which over generalize and are often written by those with 0 parrot knowledge... If the word "pet" is in the url, avoid the site for the most part.

Parrots are not "kid friendly" (even though they can be...it's more like, is your kid parrot friendly)..Would you rehome if your parrot attacked your child? If so, do not get one because this can and does happen and it isn't the bird's fault.

It's like adopting a flighted orangutan.

A "mini macaw" is a big bird...The bigger the bird, the larger the potential for damage. A mini-macaw can cause serious puncture wounds...a caique can also draw blood if motivated.
A parrot is probably the most complicated pet you could get (amazing as they are) and they are more like complicated children than anything (in terms of commitment required).

If your parrot wants cuddles and you give them, it's not appropriate...it's sex...it leads to behaviors....head and neck petting only...this is serious.

Also, never buy an unweened baby and know that ALL babies are SUPER easy compared to adults. Once they hit sexual maturity, even the sweetest baby will change...Much like human babies, vs teens.

Last edited by noodles123; 11-08-2020 at 10:04 PM.
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Old 11-08-2020, 07:23 PM
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Re: Caique vs Mini-Macaws

Here is my copy-and paste for potential/new owners:

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). ECCLECTUS PARROTS SHOULD NOT EAT PELLETS. Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want. Pressure blasted or chemically treated wood (e.g., lumber and many other types of wood from the hardware contains toxic chemicals or are cut from trees that are naturally toxic.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added. Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet).

These birds have the intelligence of 3-4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces. Copper, zinc, nickel, some iron, lead etc are all toxic. Chicken wire and most screens= bad news.

ALSO- AND NEVER EVER BUY A BABY THAT IS UNWEANED!! IT WILL NOT HELP YOU BOND BETTER. THIS IS A MYTH!!!! SERIOUSLY!
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Old 11-08-2020, 08:13 PM
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Re: Caique vs Mini-Macaws

It depends on age of the child? It also depends if they are willing to accept responsibility and if you will be willing to step in if the child loses interest? I had birds since young myself but use to raising and dealing with animals since young as was raised on a farm when young, so chores where a big part of my life since young. I had to hand feed my blue streaked Lory due to petstore was unethical and sold us a unweaned bird. Thankfully a veterinarian show me how to and materials needed and she live for 28 years. Since then been training parrots and Raptors and volunteering and working at rescues and sanctuaries plus was a breeder and work with breeders for years since.

Now a lot of information was provided in posts above as birds are highly intelligent and sensitive to chemicals and gasses. So please read posts above. Back then I had to read books on care and etc. Thankfully today you can pull information on internet.

If child is still a infant, or toddler, then answer is no. Birds are wild and not domesticated and can be unpredictable. You and the child have to understand this. Is not like taking care of a hamster, dog, or cat. There is no such thing as a parrot that won't bite, or attack. Buying a parrot just because it can talk is wrong reason to buy a parrot and not even guarantee that they will talk. Parrots need at least 3 hours plus out of cage time and etc. They are a lot of work and highly intelligent. So keep this in mine when looking to adopt one. Also the bigger birds can live 60 years plus, so is a lifetime commitment. I rather tell you the truth then sugar coat it, so you fully know what involved and not a impulse buy. I seen a lot of parrots get rehomed due to people buy them on impulse thinking they are cute and easy to care for and no knowledge on the down falls. One other thing is besides needing tons of attention and can bite hard. They also tend to be loud as they flock call, or want attention, it is in their nature. So something you have to get use to. They are also expensive to take cage of as vet bill yearly can be a $300 to $500 just for checkup and bloodwork yearly and toys over $600 yearly. A large stainless steel cage can cost $2500 and up as your looking at a larger bird. Yes a powder coat cage is around $800 for a good one, but large birds can strip the coating off and they don't last as long. A lot more to get into but this is just the basics.

If you still do decide to adopt a parrot, please buy from a reputable breeder local to you, or even better adopt one from a rescue. If you never dealt with parrot I advise you to go to a rescue and volunteer for a few weeks in your area. You learn a lot this way and what you getting yourself involve in. Most rescues won't adopt a bird out till you have at least a few week of volunteering with them and most do house visits to make sure you have setup appropriate for the bird. Usually they only charge you for the vet costs and materials they have into the bird. A lot of birds that need a good home so getting a rescue is ideal, plus a bird may pick you.
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"Many people come in and say, 'I want a bird that talks, is quiet, and doesn't bite.' And I say to them, 'I'm sorry, but that species has not been discovered yet.'"

Last edited by ParrotGenie; 11-08-2020 at 08:35 PM.
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