African Gray 7 week old baby constant squawking

Hello I'm new to parrot ownership. I finally got the opportunity to purchase a handled baby. The breeder took my deposit and I just waited for Rico patiently. At 2 weeks old the breeder surprised me with you need to pick him up next week or he will refund the deposit and sell the baby bird to someone else.... I paid 1/2 of what I would have if I purchased local. Anyway... I got Rico at 3 weeks old. I have took him to the vet last week and he got a clean bill of health. I am getting to know the aviary store folks about an hour from here. Both say I am doing everything right. Feedijg the appropriate amount and paying the appropriate amount of attention. For the last 4 weeks straight my baby parrot is squawking non stop. He does it when I have him in my lap, when he is playing with toys, while eating, while along... only stops to sleep. He has a tent in his temp enclosure, toys, heat lamp, chemical free pine bedding, you name it. I cant train him to be quiet because he is still to young for treats. Anyone ever had a baby parrot do this? Help!!!!

Where to begin?

Shame on that seller for selling you a unweaned baby. He crying due to he need to be hand feed.

Unfortunately, it is too common for unethical breeders to sell unweaned babies to customers. An unweaned baby bird that can be sold faster is a better investment for a breeder, plain and simple and reason why do do that to make a quicker buck. Weaning and hand-feeding are both difficult processes, even for experienced breeders, so the less time they have to spend feeding, housing, and socializing a baby bird is more money in their pocket.

Baby birds die, become permanently harmed, or acquire terrible lifelong habits every day at the hands of well-meaning but inexperienced hand feeders. The causes are many, and most can be difficult to avoid given the finicky nature of baby birds. Some of the biggest problems that can occur with hand-feeding are:

1) Feeding complications

Aspiration: Food can easily be pulled or pushed into a baby bird’s lungs and cause immediate death or infections like pneumonia.

Crop burn: Formula that is even a few degrees too warm can literally sear a hole right through a baby bird’s crop. If the bird does not die from the subsequent infection, life-saving surgery is often risky and expensive.

Crop stasis: On the other hand, formula that is a few degrees too cool can cause the baby bird’s crop to shut down. Food does not pass through it and can become impacted/rot causing bacterial or fungal infection.

Poor sterilization: Feeding utensils, syringes, mixing containers, and improperly stored formula all must be properly sterilized. If not sterilized properly after EVERY feeding, all of these can harbor and encourage dangerous bacterial growth.

2) Beak Deformities: Too much pressure during syringe feeding or beak cleaning can result in serious and permanent beak defects like scissor beak, overbites, etc.

3) Starvation: Weighing baby birds daily is extremely important to ensure they are not losing dangerous amounts of weight from underfeeding. It’s also critical to ensure that a baby is gaining enough weight and thus developing properly. Knowing just how much to feed AND how often is crucial because some chicks will not beg even when they are hungry. A novice may assume that a chick isn't hungry if it refuses feedings, but this can happen for something as inconsequential as a change in the brand of hand-feeding formula or the incorrect formula temperature. Additionally, others may fight being hand fed even when they are starving because they haven’t learned how to eat from a spoon or syringe. Finally, during the weaning process a young chick can sit in front of a bowl of food and starve to death as many chicks will refuse weaning foods if they are not being fed enough formula (i.e. if they are being force weaned).

4) Overfeeding: Many younger chicks will continue eating until the feeder stops feeding them rather than backing away when they are full. Overfeeding can lead to an impacted crop which requires veterinary action to correct. It can also cause the crop to become unnaturally stretched over time and result in folds or pouches that trap formula, allowing it to rot and grow bacteria. An inexperienced feeder may not be able to tell when a chick is full, and so cannot accurately judge when to stop feeding.

5) Improper Weaning: Baby birds that are not properly weaned will not learn the behaviors that make them enjoyable companions. The novice owner has no idea how to react to a screaming or begging baby and so this undesirable behavior can easily become the norm for that baby as it learns to beg or scream incessantly into maturity. Others inadvertently teach their baby birds to bite by improperly responding to the first inquisitive attempts of a baby to investigate with its beak. Even teaching a baby to eat a variety of foods can be challenging for those who have no experience doing so. Remember, weaning is a process, not an event. The beginning of the weaning period varies widely among species. All babies are individuals and wean slightly differently from each other. If these differences aren't accommodated, the chick's behavior and demeanor can be adversely affected. The bird's attitude toward food, his emotional development and his natural progression to food-independence will be retarded.

Finally, it’s true that in general, the BIGGEST problem faced by inexperienced hand-feeders is the simple fact that they are unable to recognize signs of trouble. They do not know what issues like crop stasis looks like, or what the proper weight of a baby should be, or how to handle a baby refusing formula. Because baby birds are so fragile and vulnerable it can be mere hours to minutes (in the case of aspiration) before a problem is serious enough to cause death.

Given these facts it is apparent that the task of hand-feeding and weaning a baby parrot is best left to the professionals. And if the tens of thousands of adopted birds out there are any indication, even mature adult parrots are still capable of forming strong, loving bonds with their owners. An important fact for all parrot owners to understand is that what creates a true bond is NOT who is providing the formula, or even who a bird first lives and interacts with. In the end, a bird is going to bond MOST strongly to the person or people that put in the time and effort to build a respectful and trusting relationship with them.

So please, never ever consider buying an unweaned parrot. If you show up at a pet shop/breeder and the salesperson is trying to convince you to take an unweaned bird, it’s okay to say no! Even if you have put down a deposit OR were falsely told the baby was weaned, it is always better to stay safe and NOT encourage unethical breeding practices by giving these irresponsible breeders your money. Say no to unweaned birds, and help save the lives of thousands of baby parrots every single year.

You going to need Baby Bird Formula Kaytee Exact


https://www.chewy.com/kaytee-exact-...czSO6gfcPn5DQq7nDpPrR_93S9PXzPrcaAi2fEALw_wcB

Important directions to follow when mixing and keeping proper temperature to formula.

Preparation of Baby Bird Formula
Follow the manufacturer's directions when mixing the formula.

Important: "Use distilled or boiled water to eliminate bacteria growth from contaminated tap water." The water should be approximately 105-110 degrees. Add the water to the powder gradually while stirring. After thorough mixing to eliminate lumps, the formula should be the consistency of creamy pudding. This thickness will allow it to be drawn into an eye dropper or syringe or will roll off a spoon. For older birds the mixture may be made thicker.

Do not reuse mixed formula. Discard and mix fresh at each feeding.
If really necessary, sufficient amount of formula may be prepared at one time to last 3 days if covered and refrigerated after preparation. The amount needed for each feeding can be heated and fed but not reused. Caution: You might need to add water in the heating process. Diluting formula by increasing water will reduce the concentration of the diet.

Temperature to Feed Formula
The formula should be served warm- 104-106 F- but not hot, as excess heat may damage the digestive tract. It should feel Slightly warm to the touch. It is highly recommended to use a thermometer to measure the temperature.

In order to maintain the heat of the hand-feeding formula mixture, a double-boiler type arrangement can be set up with the container of prepared formula placed in a bowl or pan of warm water during the feeding process.

Feeding Area
Psittacine birds while being fed should be placed on a surface, such as a towel, where there will be insulative properties to prevent excess heat loss and a surface where they can grip with their feet, preventing slippage and possible injury.

Hand-Feeding
The most important considerations in the hand feeding process are the frequency and volume of feeding. Baby birds grow at an extraordinarily rapid rate and this growth requires a great deal of food to meet the nutritional needs of the bird. However, the crop of a young bird holds a limited amount of food, so it must be filled frequently. As the bird gets older, the capacity of the crop increases, and the number of daily feedings will be reduced. The volume to be fed is base upon a combination of observation and judgement.

Procedure
Check the Fullness of the Crop
Nature designed a rather unique feature into the digestive system of birds-a widening of the oesophagus at the lower pan of the neck This widening acts as a compartment to hold a quantity of food, and is named the crop.
The crop can be easily visualized in young birds while feathering is incomplete. In older birds with a well developed covering of feathers, the fullness can be checked by gently feeling the crop with a thumb and index finger.

The crop should be examined before each feeding. Ideally, in the rapidly growing young bird, the crop should never be allowed to become completely empty. Checking the crop fullness will help determine the frequency and volume of feeding to be given. Normally the crop will empty in 4 hours. A crop that remains full or is not emptying properly indicates some type of problem.

Young African Grey Parrots will learn to wean on to solid food at around the the age of 12 weeks. Yes larger birds typically take longer to learn to wean on solid food. 7 weeks is far to young. I would return bird and get money back if you still can and file a complaint against that breeder. If you can't get him to a experienced avian vet ASAP! Meaning today.

Yes being kind of harsh, but hate to see the baby die due to that bad breeder, or you to lose your money as well. So you have to act quick as the baby could die from starvation.

I am shock they didn't even show you how to hand feed the bird and provide stuff needed, or formula needed? They were just looking to rob you and didn't care if bird died or not?

Why vet didn't know this is beyond me as well? Make sure it is a avian veterinary that specializes in birds and not just a exotic veterinarian.

Last resort of you can't find a avian vet today, find a local breeder usually on Facebook groups and other social media sites that may be able to help you through this and pay them for their time. You may get lucky and find a breeder on here? "Edit" I see you are located in Washington DC area

agreed with above--

here are some more resources (pay super close attention to temperature and cross-contamination-- things need to be sterile-- if you touch the fridge handle etc, and then the formula, that is cross-contamination unless the handle was immaculate). There is a lot that can go wrong and hand-feeding is tricky...If you don't already have one, you need a digital scale (to weigh the bird daily) and a very accurate candy thermometer for the formula), as well as an avian certified vet ASAP just because you are so new to this and because babies are very fragile.

http://www.parrotforums.com/breeding-raising-parrots/74363-so-you-bought-unweaned-baby.html

https://hari.ca/hari/research-facil...cine-pediatrics-housing-feeding-baby-parrots/

https://theparrotuniversity.com/arthandfeeding2

This may be different, as your baby is unweaned (if he is using it for warmth or something), but for weaned babies, you do not want them to have huts..They are dangerous for a variety of reasons (hormonal, but also due to blockages and entanglement and strangulation).

You will also not want to keep using bedding once he is able to perch, as the only purpose is to prevent splay leg in very young birds. After that, bedding becomes a hazard...SO that is fine for now, but it should be very temporary.

Thank you very much for the speedy replies and concerns. All precautions have been taken with respect to preparing his food, amount he eats in a sitting, and amount of times he is fed a day. Im not happy the the baby bird is in this situation but I am being as responsible an owner as possible which include Avian veterinarian advice. Honestly human babies go home with 1st time mothers and things work out. Im not condoning unethical breeders but it is what it is right now for me and the baby bird. Joinijg a forum was recommended but feels like I just need to keep going it alone. Was just wondering why the bird has been squawking for a month. Its been slowly getting better over tlas 8 days.... again thanks for the valuable information. Most of this I already know but I continuously read material because I finf I pick up a new tip or trick to try. All the best...

Have you tried a vet?

Why do you feel the need to go it alone?

I sense some tension but human babies are way less complicated than bird babies. That is just a fact and it doesn't mean you won't figure it out-- they just aren't mammals. Human babies are downright resilient in comparison-- especially because they have much less sensitive lungs. No one was trying to guilt you or make you feel bad-- but the fact that you said this means you really should stick around because parrots are super complicated. I am glad you are researching and taking this seriously , but please try not to be put off by well-meaning (and sound) advice.

The screaming could be hunger, or illness, or behavioral, but more likely hunger or illness in a baby.

*again, remove that hut and the chips as soon as he is perching etc*

I think you should stick around; this forum is full of information (whether or not you knew all that we told you this time around-- hence the vet recommendations).

No one is judging you or anything-- hang in there!

Thank you. I have eliminated any aspect of it being improper feeding. Sanitary feeding? Check. Iam feeding him Exact formula 3 times a day as he is now 7 weeks. I feed him his formula at never below 104 degrees and never above 107 degrees F. I weigh him every morning and feed him 10 to 12 % of his body weight and I always check his crop to adjust if necessary each feeding. The vet recommended I leave some pellets in the side of his enclosure as of last week just to see if he will investigate on his own (I dont think he is interested yet).

I have to have faith on the Vets diagnosis with respect to "very healthy" so that I feel comfortable withm

So I guess I must focus on behavioral... I have him in a clear tub with a couple of cement perches drilled in which he is just today starting to use today but just for a moment. I found the idea of switching out the bedding as soon as the perch is a thing to keep him on perches quite interesting and valuable information. I also appreciate the hut and hormones info incredible for obvious reasons. I have all the members in my family spend time with him for 20 to 30 minutes a day basically sitting in our laps on a towel. I know that if he is "aggressive" with toys its not actually rough play but a sign he wants space. He can attack so first I make sure to keep fingers away but after a few moments if he is still cranky we return him to the enclosure. When in my lap he will sleep every now and again and I will gently cover his back if he is shivering which he seems to like. My family members all have parrots but none obtained one so young so they just don't know for sure. I keep him busy in his enclosure to by putting a recommemded amount of toys and when he is not looking little obstacles in his way that he will have to move so he can have things just right for him. Thats it.... thats his life right now.

.

Sorry for coming off as harsh earlier. As been there myself and had to deal with learning how to hand raise a baby early on due to a unethical breeder sold us a unweaned bird. Thankfully a veterinarian taught and help me raised Ruby my first bird a blue-streaked lory and she survived the situation. But also working with breeders and breeding birds and rescues for many years dealt had my fair share of not so good outcomes and hate to see people that have to go through this, as raising a baby bird not for the faint of heart, or inexperienced. Even with us experienced people stuff can go wrong and does at time sadly. Thankfully you seem to have a experienced veterinarian that helped you.

It is better to educate and hope for the best outcome. Wasn't sure if you did the research, seeing you stated you never had experience with parrots. Seeing your bird made it through a few week later is a good sign. So don't beat yourself over it as it is not your fault, but is the fault of the unethical breeder that wanted to make a quick buck. I just hate that breeders do this as it more times then not, doesn't end well for the poor baby bird.

It actually was a good recommendation to join a forum as ton of knowledge can be shared and don't be scared, or feel offended, or judged in any way. It is the breeder that at fault and sure have never forced the bird on you at such a early age.

This just a side-note, but as he gets older, sitting on a lap with a towel will also become inappropriate (1. due to the towel touching him and 2. potentially due to the lap itself---it is kinds of shadowy and nesty)-- you should only pet on the head and neck (unless briefly for harness training/touch training etc) but I wanted to put that out there for the long-run. Babies aren't hormonal yet, but I mention it because once he gets a bit older, you want to make sure you aren't setting an unsustainable precedent. He does need to get familiar with touch etc, but you don't want him getting obsessed with things that will not be allowed in the future (just putting it out there--- not saying to stop what you are doing, because that can be part of bonding with a baby-- just emphasizing the long-term goals ).

BennyCal said:

Thank you very much for the speedy replies and concerns. All precautions have been taken with respect to preparing his food, amount he eats in a sitting, and amount of times he is fed a day. Im not happy the the baby bird is in this situation but I am being as responsible an owner as possible which include Avian veterinarian advice. Honestly human babies go home with 1st time mothers and things work out. Im not condoning unethical breeders but it is what it is right now for me and the baby bird. Joinijg a forum was recommended but feels like I just need to keep going it alone. Was just wondering why the bird has been squawking for a month. Its been slowly getting better over tlas 8 days.... again thanks for the valuable information. Most of this I already know but I continuously read material because I finf I pick up a new tip or trick to try. All the best...

Click to expand...

Sometimes shockingly they squawk even when they are not hungry. Reason why you have to judge by looking at crop.

Attached are pics of his current temp residence.

Understood about the lap thing. An older parrot should perch on your arm and I already prepared myself for the fact that head scratches, when wanted are good enough with respect to touch I just want him to feel like a member of the flock and sitting in his enclosure all day cant be healthy. I also know there is a such thing as too much love.

I really appreciate you guys.

BennyCal said:

Understood about the lap thing. An older parrot should perch on your arm and I already prepared myself for the fact that head scratches, when wanted are good enough with respect to touch I just want him to feel like a member of the flock and sitting in his enclosure all day cant be healthy. I also know there is a such thing as too much love.

Click to expand...

Usually hormonal aggression start when they hit about 5 years old till about 11 years. I seen some that start early around 3 to 4 years of age. Then you have to be extremely careful as they can become aggressive and have long term behavior issues. Is a whole another topic someone will likely link about hormonal behavior in parrots.

BennyCal said:

Understood about the lap thing. An older parrot should perch on your arm and I already prepared myself for the fact that head scratches, when wanted are good enough with respect to touch I just want him to feel like a member of the flock and sitting in his enclosure all day cant be healthy. I also know there is a such thing as too much love.

Click to expand...

yes, for sure-- like I said, just something to be aware of. even though it takes time for them to get to that stage, between 2-4, make sure you aren't allowing behaviors that will be inappropriate in the future.
An adult bird is always a pain compared to a baby tough- so just keep that in mind-- they can get moody and weird (before and after sexual maturity)

Thank you. I

Thank you. A 3 week old baby Grey? It was heart breaking as we were so excited to get a parrot that was properly weaned and happy. Basically I got the old bait and switch. The breeder really was only in it for the money. If I had to do this all over again I would spend the extra couple grand to make sure my baby bird is healthy and happy. Thank you again for the information and trust me... I now have a new found distain for unethical breeders.

I haven't read the whole thread. But I hope things go soomthly. Babies and weaning and just past weaning need more physical contact than adults. Lots of guidance. This actually makes them more confident and independent as adults.
I'm sure abundance weaning was talked about. You can add small amounts of blended veggies to his formula when he gets a little older as adults would start to feed their chicks this way to help them learn about food. You can read uo on it and decide feed., as he gets a little older.. And learning to fledged and fly as develops mind eye sight body muscle , snd increases intelligence.