New bird owner!

Hi guys! I'm new to bird ownership and I just got a Yellow-sided Green Cheeck Conure. I want to know if my setup is appropriate, or if I should change a few things. I'm also concerned about feather loss, as a tail feather is coming out and I want to make sure it doesn't have to do with how I have my cage and toys placed. I've seen a few pin feathers and he is turning seven months old, so possible molt? Not too sure about the gender, but I've noticed that when stepping up he wants to get onto my shoulder and climb up on top of my head.

could do with a couple more perches, natural wood style dotted around just to keep his feet on different materials to rest. I'd move the concrete perch from the heater and have a wood branch there instead just because when on the concrete one too long their feet can get sore, and a couple foot toys on the cage floor to go and play with (small piece of chewing wood, things like that)

Apart from that it's a decent set-up. My cage is very similar although on a more recent comparison actually has less space! The bottom panel is higher up which I don't like. May get another at some point I saw that looks huge (and awesome!)

oh following up, sounds like molting to me so very standard and once again racing for your head seems standard, it's a comfy spot with all that hair and nice and high so it feels safe

Fyi rope perches are dangerous for use inside parrot cages. I love rope perches they are easy to bend and stuff and attach to so many things but they should be used with supervision. I use them on perches outside their cage so when I'm not home and they are in their cage I don't have to worry. They can start to come apart and their little nails can get caught and then they freak out and end up hurting themselves. Best to use them where they can be supervised in case they get stuck. I like that cage though I think your new guy will love it!

I'd agree with YUMgrinder, soft fibrous rope is too risky to have inside the cage, but firm thick sisal rope can be a safer alternative for in cage use. Looks like a good start for a cage set up. I'd always recommend some textured perches to help keep nails trim and some different wooden ones to add variety for foot health. I use a couple of cholla cactus ones, manzanita, calcium ones etc. The difficulty comes with placement. Trial and error is the only way to figure out perch positions to avoid poop bombs! :-D

I disagree about the rope perches. I have one that is four years old and does not show any signs of coming apart. As long as you keep your bird's nails trimmed and you check them daily, they should be fine. I would add a couple more perches though, including natural wood.

I appreciate the advice guys! I have a wooden perch or two I can fit in. I do have trouble with him biting quite a bit. My hand and ears are covered in dozens of bites.

I would also stand the cage upright, much more comfortable!
Kidding, looks good and welcome!

So I agree with the others, looks pretty good, could use more wood toys so he can work that busy beak on those instead of you. Called bite pressure training, use the SEARCH button above to find many super great threads by our experienced parronts. If he is nipping while on your shoulder, he losses that privilege. At least untill he demonstrates more self control. Salty, while bite pressure trained and is able to handled well ( check out my video of me putting his flght harness on) I still get the occasional bite. Whe does this, it's usually my fault, either i missed cue of him getting over stimulated or other signal. Amazons telegraph their intention if a coming bite. Not so with conures. They also signal a bite coming but their signals are subtle. With Salty on the rare occasions where he is just a softly spoken 'Easy' and if he persists, I will out him o a chair back or the back of the couch, anywhere really except back to his cage ( the cage is never used as a punishment - it wont work and you do not want him to associate his cage with bad things. SO put him aside and IGNORE him for like 30 seconds to a minute. You can then take him up again. If he persists, DO the same thing again. A smart parrot will quickly get the point.

FlyBirdiesFly said:

I disagree about the rope perches. I have one that is four years old and does not show any signs of coming apart. As long as you keep your bird's nails trimmed and you check them daily, they should be fine. I would add a couple more perches though, including natural wood.

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Its been documented over and over, even saw a post I think yesterday on here where someone lost their amazon to a rope perch, granted it wasn't that the parrot got caught and injured itself, it was that the parrot was shredding and ingesting the material. If your bird doesn't chew on the rope perches I think the risk is minimal but some love to tear them apart. It only takes one day you've been at work all day and you come home to find your beloved had starting pulling at the fibers and got a foot stuck and freaked out. Nobody there to save them and they either hurt themselves flopping around or even worse, death.

I hear there's this stuff called vet tape, I haven't seen it in any stores myself but I hear its great for rope perches. Even worn perches can be salvaged with this tape and if you wrap the perch in it, it keeps the rope from being accessed by your feathered babies. I think then it is safe for unsupervised use.

everything can present some sort of danger, so I think I should note that anything can happen, or not happen. I like to work on my car outside but my jack stand could fail and the car crush me. But I still do it. I think what I want to say is, know the danger, and if you decide to not take the rope perch out of the cage, make sure you at least inspect it periodically to ensure it hasn't been picked at or is coming apart.

My birds don't chew on the rope perches. I guess some birds do. It all depends on the individual bird.

Good for you, for reaching out here.
I'm glad you found us.

TikiAndBrandon98 said:

I appreciate the advice guys! I have a wooden perch or two I can fit in. I do have trouble with him biting quite a bit. My hand and ears are covered in dozens of bites.

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I just posted this again a bit ago, if your bird is bonded to you, and always comes to you... it's easy to get him to stop biting. Might take a few tries maybe a couple days to fully sink in. But I prefer to always go with the "time out" method.

When he goes to bite, say "no!" and immediately put him on the floor like 10-15feet away from where you were. Not on his cage or play-stand or anyplace he likes to go. The floor usually is best.

Then turn around and go back. He will eventually figure out he is being "shunned" by his "flock" for inappropriate behavior. He will figure it out and walk back and generally be sweet, sometimes not, but after the second or third time he will figure out the connection. Don't go get him, let him think about why he was on the floor, (and calm down) and take the walk of shame back to you and apologize in his way. (or fly back).


After that work on bite pressure, once he knows theres a limit he will realize he can use his "hand/beak", when you don't react.

He will figure it out, just start with this and you will both figure it out.

Trust me on this....