Crimson Male X Yellow Sided Female conure

Plasticgoat2012

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I began to feel that my yellow sided would feel lonely as I am working full time and had started my masters programme part time. I went to get a crimson conure. Both my yellow sided and the crimson that I acquired where not DNA sexed. Within about 3 days they started getting close. It turned out that the yellow sided that I had for about 3 years is female while the crimson is male.
I kept them well fed (Grinded zupreem pellets with egg food with added supplements etc, fruits, a few sunflower seed and occasionally millet).

In about a month, the yellow sided started lying eggs. Fast forward, the eggs hatched and I now have 3 babies that are about 2-3 weeks old (parents fed them, I mixed zupreem enhance plus handfeeding formula to their food mixture).
Three of them seem to have black feet. Would this mean that the 3 are Crimson conures or are there any of possibilities or dilution?
Can the gender be determined based on their dilution.
Hope someone can help me with this. I can post pictures and videos if you want.
 

MonicaMc

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Your chicks are hybrids. They are not "crimson bellied" or "yellowsided", they are hybrids.

It's like breeding together a lion and a tiger, or a goat and a sheep, or a horse and a donkey.


If your yellowsided was a male and your crimson a female, then yes, sex could be determined based on coloration. However, since your yellowsided is female and crimson male, then no, you can't determine gender by coloration.


Are the parents fed vegetables as well?
 
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Plasticgoat2012

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Thank you.

I tend to feed them more fruit (apples, pears, guava, water melon) etc.
 

MonicaMc

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Vegetables are considered to have more nutrition in them than fruits do, as fruits contain a lot of sugar. Would highly recommend increasing vegetables within their diet to give them a more rounded diet.
 

EllenD

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Monica gives very good and important advice to you. Fruit should not be fed to your birds every day, it should only be an occasional treat and in very small quantities, as it is nothing but sugar (fructose), which turns into fat since captive birds aren't flying all day long like wild birds, and this fat accumulates in their livers, causing Fatty Liver Disease. A captive bird that is fed fresh fruit every day of it's life can develop Fatty Liver Disease just as quickly as a captive bird that eats nothing but fatty seeds every day.

Your bird's normal, daily diet (regardless of whether or not they are feeding babies) should consist of a staple of pellets (Zupreem are good if they are the "natural" pellets; fruit pellets again contain a lot of sugar, but are still better than no pellets at all), along with a healthy, low-fat, varied seed-mix that contains no sunflower seeds. And then in addition to the staples they should get a nice mix of fresh veggies every single day too. Occasional treats can be given 2-3 times a week in small quantities, and these include fresh fruit, nuts, sunflower seeds or other fatty seeds, etc.

****Feeding your female the EggFood is an excellent idea while she's laying eggs (both before, during, and directly after she finishes laying), but after the babies are fully abundance-weaned and on their own, then stop the egg-food, as again it's loaded with calories, fat, etc.

I don't know what your intentions are as far as breeding them again, just make sure that you've got both a cuttlebone and a mineral block for your female at all times to keep her Calcium levels high and to prevent egg-binding. Some females have a horrible habit of continually laying clutch after clutch after clutch, usally starting directly after they are done feeding the babies from the last clutch, and this is extremely hard on the female's body and overall health.
 
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Plasticgoat2012

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Yes thank you.
I do feed them the zupreem natural pallets as I have read about the undesirable effects of the color emulsified fruit pellets. I do feed them calcium supplements which I do add to the egg food.

I don't intend to breed them. Its just that the YSC laid eggs (8 eggs in total), I took out 5 of em as I didn't want that many chicks. Once they are done, I'll readjust their environment in a manner that would curb breeding hopefully.
 

MonicaMc

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I, too, have found Zupreem Natural better than Fruitblend. However, both contain sugar, so I've converted my birds over to other pellets.

Zupreem was the first one used as I had adopted a conure that was eating the Fruitblend. Rainbow poop??? Gross! And not good if he's bleeding internally or his urine is stained green or yellow, but you can't tell because it mixes in with the dyes. Changes in poop can indicate health issues.... and his poop was always mushy! Never any form!

The Naturals was better, poop more well formed, but still not something I wanted to feed long term. I've since fed Roudybush, Pretty Bird Gold, TOP's (which wasn't taken to well), Mazuri and Harrison's.



I would be interested in pictures of the chicks once they feather out! I've been gathering photos of hybrids to include in a photo album. I'm against hybrids (definitely don't recommend allowing them to reproduce again!), but I still find the subject of hybrids to be fascinating! ;) And there are some crazy hybrids out there!


https://www.flickr.com/groups/hybrid_parrots/pool/
 
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Plasticgoat2012

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Hi Monica. Thank you for the heads up. I shall switch them over to the likes of Harrison and Roudybush once zupreem runs out. In terms of vegetables which are the ones that you would recommend?

I would definitely post the pictures. They're born on 17th, 19 and 21st of July.
 
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MonicaMc

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MonicaMc

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They can't get mom's pink feet because they aren't showing the mutation.

Yellowside (opaline) is a sex-linked gene. In parrots, if the male carries 1 SL gene, then 50% of his female offspring will also display the SL gene. If he carries 2 SL genes, then 100% of his female offspring will show the SL gene. This is, of course, assuming that he's paired to a hen that does not carry the mutation. Male offspring will be split for the gene - if 50% female offspring are visual, then 50% of males will be split for the mutation. If all female offspring are visual, then all male offspring are split for the mutation.

If you pair an SL gene hen (she can only be visual, never split) to a male that does not carry the gene, then all males will be split for the mutation but you will not have any visual offspring.

If you pair a male and female together that both carry the SL gene (visual x visual or split x visual) then you'll get visual male and females of that mutation. (quantity will depend on if the male/father is split or visual)



It can be rather confusing to understand at first if you aren't familiar with how genetics work!



The only way you could get "pink feet" chicks, is if you had a yellowsided male paired to a crimson bellied. All female offspring would be yellowsided hybrids and have pink feet where-as all males would be normal hybrids split for yellowside. (like the chicks you are getting now - except we don't know which is male and which is female)



The chick definitely looks healthy and doing well! That's great!
 

MonicaMc

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It wont allow me to see the video. It's been a few days, how are they doing now?
 

MonicaMc

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It worked! They look to be doing great!!!!
 
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Plasticgoat2012

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One of the babies having it's afternoon nap. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TsgkM0UgGz23kcHacGYSdVlnq2NjdJci/view?usp=sharing
They are still on handfeeding formula 3 X a day Zupreem embrace plus. The food that they nibble on their own would be the egg food + Zupreem Natural pellets that I had grinded and mixed with the egg food. They are rather playful and enjoy playing with some toys including a ball.
 

MonicaMc

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They are all adorable! Any recent pictures?
 

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