Tape for less biting pain?

conureconnie

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I have had my conure for 2 weeks now and he is getting quite comfortable with me I think he likes to be out of the cage a lot and we practice stepping up onto a pen or another little perch object a lot and he's really good at it, very responsive. Also target training is really easy for him.
However, whenever I use my finger for a step up I don't push it into him so I know he isn't telling me to back off or I am not pushing him too much because I use the method with the treat on the other side of my finger and he steps up onto it on his own will. Then, when he's on he bites me really hard and I'm wondering if I can put something around my finger like Band-Aid or tape so that I'm less scared while training him to stop biting and that won't freak him out or he won't think that it's not my finger.
Thanks
 

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GaleriaGila

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I guess I'd shy away from it, because it introduces something artificial, and might even alarm the bird. Some tapes might be toxic, too.

The Rb would bite me just for having the nerve to put something new in front of him!

Let's see what others think. :)
 

Jen5200

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Must confess that I used flesh coloured vet wrap on my fingers when Tango went through his very bitey phase. He would step up like a champ and then chomp my finger - it took a while to get him past that using the “shunning” method. In the interim, my fingers looked like they had been through a meat grinder lol. It was self defence :). He didn’t react to it at all, but every bird is probably a bit different. It took a little while to build trust with him (he had been rehomed a couple of times), but he is a very rare biter now.
 

noodles123

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I tried this with my "Too" (under my sleeve--not tape but a plastic rope-type-thing) and it just made things more awkward. I think time tends to work best...You will be bitten, but the reaction is key. If you keep getting bitten, you may be rushing contact. 2 weeks is early, even though, for you, it doesn't feel early lol (I remember those days).


I also reassert, that all of this depends on WHY he is biting....but face value, I would push through the pain and try not to react or act twitchy....easier said than done, but it can be done. Also, if your bird is temporarily in a biting mood, read those cues, and pick a different time for interaction. You don't want to teach him that biting gets him what he wants (possible escape from being picked up) and your also don't want to give him extra practice biting (behavioral loops etc).
 
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Skittys_Daddy

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Are you 'reacting' to the hard bites? If you are, that will likely reinforce the biting. They will keep doing it if they think it'll get a reaction out of you. Also, using anything like tape or a glove etc can be counter-productive as it introduces a 'foreign' material or object to the situation. You want them to get used to your finger and hand.


Sometimes it boils down to time and them getting used to it. Sad to say, but getting bitten is a part of the training process with a bird. That doesn't mean it should be tolerated, just that it should be addressed in a way that discourages the behavior and reinforces trust.
 
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conureconnie

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I mean I am trying my best but obviously also getting bit so it is impossible to be completely still.
 

MonicaMc

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You say you are offering a treat when he steps up onto your hand. Is he biting before or after the treat?
 

Skittys_Daddy

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I got Skittles to fly directly to my finger to get a treat. Before I always either brought it to him or he'd fly to my shoulder and climb over to get it.



Now, when I put my finger out he flies right to it expecting a treat. BUT, there is a caveat. I kiss his belly first. lol. Thats the routine. Before he gets his treat, daddy kisses his belly.
 

noodles123

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But when in that process is the bite happening?
When he expects a treat but hasn't gotten one?
 
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conureconnie

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You say you are offering a treat when he steps up onto your hand. Is he biting before or after the treat?

So he has only stepped up fully with both feet twice. He usually put one foot one my finger and then bites down. But, when he has gotten all the way on he bites without getting the treat. I guess I should try to give him the treat really quickly as soon as hes on then to give no chance to bite.
 

noodles123

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That is a good thought---a busy beak is not a biting beak. Also, make sure that if/when he taps you with his beak to steady himself (stepping on) that you don't jerk or waiver, as this could make him "hold on" with his beak. Mine often grabs with her beak (cockatoo) and at first, it was scary because she had bitten me and I was nervous. That having been said, she doesn't bite now (rare anyway) and she still sometimes uses her beak to steady herself. If he is young, he may still be learning how hard he can "mouth" things without crossing a line.
 
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Kiwibird

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I was working with a larger beak, but I wore heavy duty work gloves with my bird (brand new, don't ever use dirty gloves) that were tan in color, nothing bright or scary. He hated the gloves at first, but he also hated my hands so it's not like it was a step back on anything since there was no trust yet built in terms of stepping onto my hand. It did protect my hands from vicious bites, which he handed out in abundance at that time and allowed me to take more punishment in order to break him of the will to maim and kill me. It still took time, but I'm not 100% sure it ever would have happened had I not used gloves. I think the suggestion of fleshy color vet tape is a good one for a conure sized beak. Or maybe some very neutral color gardening gloves?
 
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LordTriggs

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what might be an idea is holding the treat in such a way that it's just out of reach until both feet are on your hand, I wouldn't move it away or keep it out of sight, merely just too far to stretch to without getting on the other finger. If the little guy bites then he gets shunned for a moment by you with the treat being removed from sight, only being brought back into sight when training continues. Be aware he might be testing your hand like he would a tree brach to make sure it's not going to fall away from him and just not understand the beak hurts skin
 

wrench13

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In any training, you must give the treat immediately after the correct response has been given, so the bird can connect the two. This is really important. That and be consistent.
Don't try to get him to step up different ways. Always do it the same way.

I use the shunning method of keeping Salty's bites to a minimum.
 

Skittys_Daddy

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There are certain times that Skittles would get 'bitey', I have curtailed most of those times by saying "no biting" in a firm voice when he opens his beak as if getting ready to bite. Its usually quite effective. He doesn't like my "firm" voice. He prefers my "birdy" voice.
 

SassiBird

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You say you are offering a treat when he steps up onto your hand. Is he biting before or after the treat?

So he has only stepped up fully with both feet twice. He usually put one foot one my finger and then bites down. But, when he has gotten all the way on he bites without getting the treat. I guess I should try to give him the treat really quickly as soon as hes on then to give no chance to bite.

I'm waiting to see what Monica replies, but perhaps two feet is asking too much at this point. Give treats for one foot, and as Wrench said be immediate and consistent.
 

bill_e

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No treat if he bites...that will only reinforce the behavior.

Just an FYI. My Hawkhead virtually never bites but it can be painful when she's chewing on my clothing and get's a pinch of skin...or when she decides to remove a freckle for me.

Last year when getting her nails done at the Vet with a Dremel he just touched the point of her beak. Didn't bother her or affect her eating but I no longer get that pointy end in my skin. I have it done whenever the vet trims her nails.
 

LeslieA

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Does he actually draw blood when he bites?
Only twice with both feet? Does he get a treat for one foot?
I don't get it, I guess. This has only been happening for 2 weeks?
Does he realize his name even? 2 weeks isn't very long.
 
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conureconnie

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Yes, he bites hard when he holds on. Now I have been using some tape he has stepped on all the way maybe 50 or 60 times now. I dont really understand your confusion, I have brought a bird home that is wanting to be out of the cage and so am working on step up training...
 

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If your bird does not mind the tape (or glove, or armour) - I do not mind it.
You guys are working together on something - working on not getting hurt can be just as much part of the process.

Bitepressuretraining is a great thing to do ... but you cannot do everything at once.

So...go with what feels best to you.
As long as you take your cue from the bird how far and fast you can go - just roll with it.
 

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