Painting some outdoor furniture?

Kiwibird

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It's getting to be about the time of year again where we'll be getting our patio set up for the season (including an eager little creatures outside cage). Our patio furniture is in need of some TLC and we'll be using outdoor paint (probably Rustoleum) which definitely has a strong odor. How long after the paint has dried (in an outdoor space) would you say would be safe to wait before putting the :green: out there? Until the smell has generally cleared the area or until it can no longer be smelled even with your nose right up to the furniture?
 

WakaWaka

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As all of us should know, our feathered friends have very delicate respiratory systems and we must be extra careful to keep strong chemical odors away from our babies :)

This is a very good question and hopefully this thread will make others think carefully before using chemicals and paints near their fids.

My experience with some of the Rustoleum outdoor type of paint says that it would need considerable time in a good long hot sun bake before ALL the volatile solvents are completely gone.
This could take several days or several weeks.
Using light coats and giving them time to dry before another coat could shorten the dry time and also the time it takes for all the fumes to subside..

I would give the finished furniture the good, up close, nose touching the paint, sniff and if you detect any hint of paint fumes, keep Kiwi away.

My basic two cents is to be extra cautious, and also remember to keep windows closed while spraying the paint outside to prevent the fumes from entering the house.

Good luck with refinishing and please let us know how much time it took before all traces of paint smell were gone.
 

SailBoat

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Great advise provided above!

Rustoleum has continue to improve the drying time of their products! The fast action drying agents seal much quicker than in the past and are fully dried in a few hours when they are in the Sunlight, warm temperatures, a light breeze and low humidity levels (see below '*'). Any off-gasing has ended when a good nose no longer picks-up the smell of paint. Up-wind with a 2 meter (7') separation is safe in 4 -6 hours.

Being worked by the Beak of an Amazon, that's more like a week minimum or longer depending on weather conditions.

* As you know, apply in thin even coats! Most everyone over-applies, which greatly extend drying times!
 
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Kiwibird

Kiwibird

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Thanks. I'll probably wait a week or so to be safe. We're 3 stories up and our patio/balcony has solid half walls instead of open railing and is covered and oddly shaped so I'm sure paint fumes will dissipate a bit slower.

I've painted so much furniture, I definitely know to do many thin coats! I just typically work with the newer interior low VOC paints or chalk paint, but they won't hold up outside very well so I'm kind of forced to use an outdoor stinky paint.
 

SailBoat

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Yaaa, that will change things!

FYI: Check-out Rustoleum new Poly Coat out-doors series. They are claiming it will create a sealing /holding /long lasting coat on plastic products and if I remember, also steel. I'm planning on trying it, but the long range forecast has us too cool to use any of their out-door products until late May this year.
 
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Kiwibird

Kiwibird

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Now I just need to decide what color! We have a vintage Woodard sofa and loveseat. They were painted black when we got them, I painted them black again but looking at where they're chipped, it seems they were originally white. I need to re-cover the cushions again too. Thinking blue and white stripe cushions and maybe paint the frames back to white:33: Like a vintage palm beach vibe. Wonder if it would go better with Kiwi's fabulous vintage stainless cage out there...

Heck, private hangout, great view, real live parrot:p, pool and hot tub nearby- who needs to spend $$$ on an actual vacation at an actual resort:rolleyes:
 

LordTriggs

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depending on the chair's design I think painting the arms and legs of the chair a nice baby blue then the back and seat area of the chair a nice white could be an idea. Give a similar appearance to the old English beach huts

similar colouring style to this, would especially go with the cushion idea.

detail-of-beach-hut-painted-in-alternating-stripes-of-light-blue-and-ACTK7N.jpg
 
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Kiwibird

Kiwibird

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OMG! I found a picture of a sofa like ours painted white and it looks great! We have a 2 seat loveseat and 3 seat sofa in this exact design. Very retro, quite literally from the 1950/60s.:
Awesome-White-Outdoor-Bench.jpg



I like that beach hut. Definitely close to the look I'm going for. Like this shade of blue with white...:smile015::smile015::smile015:

7b4595d875c3515376c8369979a345a6.jpg
 

LordTriggs

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oooh looks good, yeah with the thinner frame the pure white does look far better, I'd use a high gloss shine to really reflect the sun. I'd love to have a nice outdoor area to spend the few nice summer days here, one day
 
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Kiwibird

Kiwibird

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I think I like the idea of a high gloss finish! It may not be an expansive space, but our balcony is pretty decently sized and requires little maintenance. No grass to mow, no plants to keep alive (yea, I've given up on the battle and decided to be "that" person who uses faux plants in lieu of real ones and I don't even care lol), no pests to keep out (unless you count a certain pest of the avian variety:p)... I have an outdoor rug and just vacuum it once a week along with the cushions and wipe down the furniture. Fully covered, super good view, nice roll down sun shade... perfect:)

I bet in a couple years you'll be able to get into a 'home' (apartment/townhouse whatever) that you own too. Maybe a little outdoor space like a patio or balcony could be on your wishlist while looking!
 
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Kiwibird

Kiwibird

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I'm not allowed to select colors!!! :D

Nor is Joe! As long as I don't choose pink or sparkly butterflies or anything of that nature, he doesn't care how I decorate either (let me guess, you're pretty happy with what Mrs.Sailboat selects too;)).
 

SailBoat

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I'm not allowed to select colors!!! :D

Nor is Joe! As long as I don't choose pink or sparkly butterflies or anything of that nature, he doesn't care how I decorate either (let me guess, you're pretty happy with what Mrs.Sailboat selects too;)).

With the exception of dark colors, yup very happy indeed!

I recall one of the first trips to the fancy paint store, the one with all those paint strips. I'm guess that was a real eye opener for her, since she has not taken me back again. I see prime colors, but have serious problems in the transitions. Matching transitional color and getting out the door is a rare event.
 
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Kiwibird

Kiwibird

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New question about sealers- I got to thinking rather than buy a little table, I have an old patio umbrella stand that is just basically a large piece of clutter right now as we have no need anymore for a patio umbrella, but it is super heavy and sturdy. Instead of paying $30-$50 for a crappy little table somewhere, I intend to use the umbrella stand as a table base and affix a faux surfboard top to it. While our patio is covered, it will still need to be sealed well for outdoor use. Any recommendations on the lowest VOC sealer available suitable for outdoor use? I would prefer to paint this project indoors, in our office, which is not connected to the rest of the condo through any kind of ventilation system etc... so as long as the door is closed, odors don't get out. I have done several indoor painting projects in there before. Any suggestions? It is my intention to end up with a similar result to this (top only):

6f89b6c86096e12b06752d259d71506c.jpg
 

SailBoat

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The problem with outside wood topped tables is that the wood expands and contracts and sealers, water and oil based tend to crack in those conditions.

My goto products would be found Boating Supply stores, likely teak oil products. Clearly not the best for indoor application of the product. I'm going to have to nose back into the products I used once upon a time.
 
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Kiwibird

Kiwibird

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The problem with outside wood topped tables is that the wood expands and contracts and sealers, water and oil based tend to crack in those conditions.

My goto products would be found Boating Supply stores, likely teak oil products. Clearly not the best for indoor application of the product. I'm going to have to nose back into the products I used once upon a time.

Ya, I'm sure it won't last more than a couple summers (though I would put it in indoor storage over the winter), but hopefully by that time we'll have a real house and be able to invest in a brand new patio set! I know my husband was admiring some last year, but there is simply no reason to spend $1000+ when we're in a place we won't stay and have no idea what will end up fitting our 'dream home' when we eventually buy it:) I think a surfboard table would be fun for now, cheap to make, reuse something we already have and fit the somewhat 'eclectic' style of our current patio.

So from what I'm understanding, you'd suggest an oiled finish to a sealant like poly acrylic or polyurethane? I've never applied an oil finish before. Is it difficult to apply? Can it be done over paint and/or stain (assuming it would have to be an oil based stain)? The big big reason I prefer to apply a finish indoors is invariably it will get bits of dust and crap stuck in the layers that can't be sanded out when applied outdoors (been there, done that!). Does an oiled finish have similar issues?
 

SailBoat

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Ya, I'm sure it won't last more than a couple summers (though I would put it in indoor storage over the winter), but hopefully by that time we'll have a real house and be able to invest in a brand new patio set! I know my husband was admiring some last year, but there is simply no reason to spend $1000+ when we're in a place we won't stay and have no idea what will end up fitting our 'dream home' when we eventually buy it:) I think a surfboard table would be fun for now, cheap to make, reuse something we already have and fit the somewhat 'eclectic' style of our current patio.

So from what I'm understanding, you'd suggest an oiled finish to a sealant like poly acrylic or polyurethane? I've never applied an oil finish before. Is it difficult to apply? Can it be done over paint and/or stain (assuming it would have to be an oil based stain)? The big big reason I prefer to apply a finish indoors is invariably it will get bits of dust and crap stuck in the layers that can't be sanded out when applied outdoors (been there, done that!). Does an oiled finish have similar issues?

Never over paint or any sealing or wax type of products! It will never dry just rub-off ever time something touches it. Water based stains are great, assure that you read the label to assure that it does not contain a sealer.

Its a teak oil product, because it is commonly used on exterior, boat, teak wood. Applications is in a thin coat. First use would be two coats with a couple of days between the first and second coat. Remember the common application is on a boat, outside, fully exposed to the weather. When dry, you can simply wipe it with an old 't' sheet. NOTE: This product will not work with a veneer!!!

Still haven't gotten to those old records, as of yet.
 
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Kiwibird

Kiwibird

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I'm not thinking that will work then, as I would like to paint some of the tabletop, similarly to the photo above.
 

SailBoat

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I'm not thinking that will work then, as I would like to paint some of the tabletop, similarly to the photo above.

It would require extensive taping-off (separating) and that would add a ton of time and complexity.

The only thing that I have seen that works in that combination is thick coating polyurethane and as you have stated, the down side is keeping the junk out of it while drying.
 

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