Tips for a new owner

SirenaJeremy

New member
Nov 13, 2020
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Melbourne, Aus
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Rainbow Lorikeet
Hey all!!! :D
My girlfriend and I have just welcomed into our family Titch - a 10 week old rainbow lorikeet. Hes such a gem, we're loving him and he seems to really have settled in.

I'm just looking for a few beginner points/advice.
Hes hand raised so he's already very comfortable with both of us and is very eager to chill on our shoulders.
Im just looking for some tips in regards to play - what do you think works well and is stimulating
Im also wanting some advice on training.

I am looking to build a little play pen with branches so he can climb, and some rope and things like that - does anyone have some DIY play area ideas??

He is a little skwarker, and wont stop this skreeching noise (think almost like a pig). We were told that this is because hes still a little baby - does anyone else have any experience with this?
He loves his nectar, but isnt too keen on the harder lori pellets. We were told that this is because he is young too - does anyone have any clue when we should expect him to be more interested in that.

Lastly, does anyone have any advice for a good avian vet in the melbourne region.

Sorry for all the questions. Im very excited with this little one, we have so much love for Titch. Any general pointers on how to give him the best life possible would be really appreciated :))

Thanks heaps,
Jeremy
 

Betrisher

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Jun 3, 2013
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Dominic: Galah(RIP: 1981-2018); The Lovies: Four Blue Masked Lovebirds; Barney and Madge (The Beaks): Alexandrines; Miss Rosetta Stone: Little Corella
Welcome to the forums! Congratulations on your new baby! :)

Before you do anything else, check out the forums and read the 'stickies' (instructive posts at the top of each topic). You'll get lots of ideas there and it saves being forced to read a massive amount in one sitting.

The main things you want to do at the moment are to slowly and calmly get to know your baby and let him get to know you. Watch him carefully to see what he enjoys and what might scare him. Offer him different foods (always choose 'safe' foods - check that out in our dietary section) and find out what he likes most because that'll be the treat you use to train him later on.

Mostly, though, enjoy him! I'm happy to hear you want to provide him with lots of play opportunities and chances to stretch himself. We can help with all that! Don't be afraid to ask questions! :)

PS. Forgot to add: An 'avian vet' is not a common thing in Australia. If you're lucky, you'll be able to find one who has a special interest in birds, but you may not. Don't be nervous to have faith in the vet you choose, even if he's not a bird-bloke. All vets know avian anatomy and physiology and should be able to treat yours appropriately. The blokes who are interested in birds generally know more about behaviour and the more unusual aspects of avian biology. Ask a local vet if he's aware of a bird specialist in your general area. Or, ask a pet-shop or bird breeder. :)
 
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LaManuka

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Hello, and welcome to the Forum to you and Titch! Always good to have another lorikeet parent on the Forum :)

At only 10 weeks old, Titch is still very much a baby, and the sounds you describe are fairly typical of baby rainbow lorikeets. I'm glad you have asked about finding a bird vet, as I always recommend new owners should have a wellness check performed by a Certified Avian Vet early on in order to rule out any viral nasties, like psittacine beak and feather disease and psittacosis. You can use the link below to find one close to you in Melbourne...

https://www.aav.org/

A good avian vet will also be an invaluable resource in terms of help with behavioural issues and training. You can also have Titch DNA sexed which can be enormously helpful information to have if health or behavioural issues arise later on. Some vets also work in association with behaviouralists and trainers so it's worth enquiring about that with your vet too.

In terms of food, I don't feed those lorikeet pellets since their whole physiology is based around a diet of soft foods like fruit and nectar. In my very humble opinion, those pellets are made more for human convenience than the bird's well-being, since the idea of them is to make that liquid poop more solid and a bit easier to clean up. Personally I'm not sure they accomplish that either and really just leave you with a constipated lorikeet! My little purple crowned Princess gets her wet mix for about 3 or 4 hours in the morning, and I give her dry powdered nectar for the rest of the day. I keep her food supply well away from her water dish because she tends to fling her food a bit and it helps to keep the water cleaner for longer that way. You can also offer bottlebrush, eucalyptus and grevillea flowers, just make sure you harvest them from sources away from main roads and where no pesticides have been used - although that last bit can be a bit tricky to know for sure.

I have included a link below with heaps of info about lorikeet behaviours from a breeder in NZ. The web page has a lot of details about the good, the bad and the ugly of a whole host of lorikeet species.....

The Lory Link

You can also try to make Titch work harder for food, which is a great way to burn off some of that crazy lorikeet energy. The more time and effort they expend on obtaining food the less energy they have to misbehave! I have included some links below.

[ame="https://youtu.be/qdo13xzZ-O8"]https://youtu.be/qdo13xzZ-O8[/ame]

[ame="https://youtu.be/OeBVSPKUVIo"]https://youtu.be/OeBVSPKUVIo[/ame]

[ame="https://youtu.be/oU0jFQkjYu4"]https://youtu.be/oU0jFQkjYu4[/ame]

Unfortunately I am not the best person to ask in terms of training tips - my purple crowned terrorist pretty much runs things in my house so I'm afraid I won't be much help to you there! I do know that rainbow lorikeets can become very dominant and aggressive once they reach sexual maturity, so my advice would be to establish good habits while Titch is young so that you have that foundation to work with if/when those hormones become a factor. Lorys can easily become hyper-stimulated and get bitey so you should try to ensure that play sessions end before he gets a little too carried away.

Other than that, welcome aboard, and don't forget to post some photos when you can, we love baby photos around here :)

http://www.parrotforums.com/technical-support/6287-how-post-pictures.html
 
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wrench13

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Welcome and be welcomed.

I am a firm believer that training , on a regular basis, is a great way to establish and maintain a close bond with your parrot. My Amazon Salty and I train every single night, learning tricks, putting on and taking off his harness, and other things. Figure out what his verry favorite treat is and use that for training. U can see the results in his videos, link below.
 
OP
SirenaJeremy

SirenaJeremy

New member
Nov 13, 2020
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0
Melbourne, Aus
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Rainbow Lorikeet
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Welcome to the forums! Congratulations on your new baby! :)

Before you do anything else, check out the forums and read the 'stickies' (instructive posts at the top of each topic). You'll get lots of ideas there and it saves being forced to read a massive amount in one sitting.

The main things you want to do at the moment are to slowly and calmly get to know your baby and let him get to know you. Watch him carefully to see what he enjoys and what might scare him. Offer him different foods (always choose 'safe' foods - check that out in our dietary section) and find out what he likes most because that'll be the treat you use to train him later on.

Mostly, though, enjoy him! I'm happy to hear you want to provide him with lots of play opportunities and chances to stretch himself. We can help with all that! Don't be afraid to ask questions! :)

PS. Forgot to add: An 'avian vet' is not a common thing in Australia. If you're lucky, you'll be able to find one who has a special interest in birds, but you may not. Don't be nervous to have faith in the vet you choose, even if he's not a bird-bloke. All vets know avian anatomy and physiology and should be able to treat yours appropriately. The blokes who are interested in birds generally know more about behaviour and the more unusual aspects of avian biology. Ask a local vet if he's aware of a bird specialist in your general area. Or, ask a pet-shop or bird breeder. :)


Hey Betrisher, Thanks so much!!!
Where are the stickies?? Are they the forum threads on the front page of the lory forum?? Sorry - im a bit new to forums haha.
I really appreciate the friendliness :) Ill be sure to drop any questions I have !
 
OP
SirenaJeremy

SirenaJeremy

New member
Nov 13, 2020
4
0
Melbourne, Aus
Parrots
Rainbow Lorikeet
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #7
Hello, and welcome to the Forum to you and Titch! Always good to have another lorikeet parent on the Forum :)

At only 10 weeks old, Titch is still very much a baby, and the sounds you describe are fairly typical of baby rainbow lorikeets. I'm glad you have asked about finding a bird vet, as I always recommend new owners should have a wellness check performed by a Certified Avian Vet early on in order to rule out any viral nasties, like psittacine beak and feather disease and psittacosis. You can use the link below to find one close to you in Melbourne...

https://www.aav.org/

A good avian vet will also be an invaluable resource in terms of help with behavioural issues and training. You can also have Titch DNA sexed which can be enormously helpful information to have if health or behavioural issues arise later on. Some vets also work in association with behaviouralists and trainers so it's worth enquiring about that with your vet too.

In terms of food, I don't feed those lorikeet pellets since their whole physiology is based around a diet of soft foods like fruit and nectar. In my very humble opinion, those pellets are made more for human convenience than the bird's well-being, since the idea of them is to make that liquid poop more solid and a bit easier to clean up. Personally I'm not sure they accomplish that either and really just leave you with a constipated lorikeet! My little purple crowned Princess gets her wet mix for about 3 or 4 hours in the morning, and I give her dry powdered nectar for the rest of the day. I keep her food supply well away from her water dish because she tends to fling her food a bit and it helps to keep the water cleaner for longer that way. You can also offer bottlebrush, eucalyptus and grevillea flowers, just make sure you harvest them from sources away from main roads and where no pesticides have been used - although that last bit can be a bit tricky to know for sure.

I have included the links below with heaps of info about lorikeet behaviours from a breeder in NZ. The web page has a lot of details about the good, the bad and the ugly of a whole host of lorikeet species.....

The Lory Link

Lory Link

You can also try to make Titch work harder for food, which is a great way to burn off some of that crazy lorikeet energy. The more time and effort they expend on obtaining food the less energy they have to misbehave! I have included some links below.

https://youtu.be/qdo13xzZ-O8

https://youtu.be/OeBVSPKUVIo

https://youtu.be/oU0jFQkjYu4

Unfortunately I am not the best person to ask in terms of training tips - my purple crowned terrorist pretty much runs things in my house so I'm afraid I won't be much help to you there! I do know that rainbow lorikeets can become very dominant and aggressive once they reach sexual maturity, so my advice would be to establish good habits while Titch is young so that you have that foundation to work with if/when those hormones become a factor. Lorys can easily become hyper-stimulated and get bitey so you should try to ensure that play sessions end before he gets a little too carried away.

Other than that, welcome aboard, and don't forget to post some photos when you can, we love baby photos around here :)

http://www.parrotforums.com/technical-support/6287-how-post-pictures.html

Hey LaManuka, I really appreciate this help!!
So you recommend going to an avian vet as early as possible? Not waiting a year and doing like a yearly checkup (I saw that suggested somewhere). I was also sold a working ointment/oil from the shop - but I read here on the forum that worming treatment is usually not necessary. Do you have thoughts on this?

Good call about the pellets, thats noted. Also its good to know about flowers, Ill have to do some foraging!!Titch has been attacking some of the seedlings that we've got growing at the moment - which is cute but not great for my gardening prospects.

Thats so funny that you call your bird a terrorist - I did actually LOL.
In regards to biting, Titch does bite a bit, how do we try and curb that behavior??
 
OP
SirenaJeremy

SirenaJeremy

New member
Nov 13, 2020
4
0
Melbourne, Aus
Parrots
Rainbow Lorikeet
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #8
Welcome and be welcomed.

I am a firm believer that training , on a regular basis, is a great way to establish and maintain a close bond with your parrot. My Amazon Salty and I train every single night, learning tricks, putting on and taking off his harness, and other things. Figure out what his verry favorite treat is and use that for training. U can see the results in his videos, link below.

Awesome!!! What is your usual procedure when training? Spending time and positive enforcement with treats?? Ive checked out your yt, looks great!

We got a harness, but made a mistake of trying to put it on on the second day we had it - lets just say it was traumatic for all involved. We had nice cuddles and gained trust back though and haven't touched the harness since. Do you have any tips on getting a bird used to a harness?? I'm thinking of introducing it slowly and incrementally - staring with just seeing it, then around his neck, then around his body and treating when it goes well. Do you have any advice in regards to getting him used to a harness?
 

Betrisher

Well-known member
Jun 3, 2013
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177
Newcastle, NSW, Australia
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Dominic: Galah(RIP: 1981-2018); The Lovies: Four Blue Masked Lovebirds; Barney and Madge (The Beaks): Alexandrines; Miss Rosetta Stone: Little Corella
Hey Betrisher, Thanks so much!!!
Where are the stickies?? Are they the forum threads on the front page of the lory forum?? Sorry - im a bit new to forums haha.
I really appreciate the friendliness :) Ill be sure to drop any questions I have !

They're at the top of each forum. Just click on the forum title and you'll see the stickies at the top. :)
 

LaManuka

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Hey LaManuka, I really appreciate this help!!
So you recommend going to an avian vet as early as possible? Not waiting a year and doing like a yearly checkup (I saw that suggested somewhere). I was also sold a working ointment/oil from the shop - but I read here on the forum that worming treatment is usually not necessary. Do you have thoughts on this?

Good call about the pellets, thats noted. Also its good to know about flowers, Ill have to do some foraging!!Titch has been attacking some of the seedlings that we've got growing at the moment - which is cute but not great for my gardening prospects.

Thats so funny that you call your bird a terrorist - I did actually LOL.
In regards to biting, Titch does bite a bit, how do we try and curb that behavior??

In answer to your first question Jeremy, yes yes yes I definitely recommend a visit to a certified avian vet as soon as you are able and then an annual check-up from there, for all the reasons mentioned and many more. A good vet is essential for bird owners far more than for almost any other kind of pet, as birds are masters at disguising illness. Too many people have discovered to their cost that their bird is desperately ill and that it's far too late to save them. The sooner you can establish a baseline of health for your lorikeet, and get a good relationship going with their vet, the better off you will all be in the longer term. Your vet will also take care of things like worming for you, that way you know it's done right the first time. Many birds only have it done once and never need it again if they don't come into contact with other birds.

When you do go to the vet, have them DNA sex test your lorikeet. Biting behaviours can vary between male and female lorikeets and it will be handy to know in advance which gender you have so you know what set of behaviours you're likely to be dealing with. A very wise person once said that the best way to avoid being bitten is to avoid being bitten in the first place. Sounds simplistic, but essentially it means ending interactions before the biting starts so that bad habits are not entrenched. This is not to say that you will never get bitten, it pretty much comes with the territory with bird ownership. Eventually you will learn how to read the signs that Titch is getting a bit overwrought and is likely to bite, so it should become easier to avoid as your relationship develops.

Many people will tell you to do everything you can to avoid any kind of interaction with a parrot that they may in any way perceive as sexual. This is good advice generally but I believe it is essential with lorikeets, because they can be SO easily over-stimulated into aggression. So this means no tickling under the wings, no scratching or petting other than around the head and neck, no access to a happy hut or hidey hole or anything that might be even remotely perceived as a nesting site. Even in a bird as young as Titch is, I would recommend that you make sure not to start anything that might turn into a bad habit later on. Rainbow lorikeets are very socially complex and dominating birds, so as cute and sweet as Titch is now, these are behaviours that have evolved over millions of years and is something he will have no control over when he does mature. I don't mean to scare you with this information, but as they say, forewarned is fore-armed. Please do read the link that I gave you because it will provide valuable insight. And again, this is yet another reason to establish a relationship early with a certified avian vet.

Unfortunately there are no "stickies" here as yet about lorikeet behaviours. I wish there were because they really are quite different to any other parrot species. But there are stickies in the "Training" forum and a lot of info to be had in that forum generally. And do follow wrench13's advice about training too, he's a master at what he does!
 
Last edited:

Betrisher

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"Unfortunately there are no "stickies" here as yet about lorikeet behaviours. I wish there were because they really are quite different to any other parrot species."

Psst! LaManuka! You could write one! AFAICS, there's nothing wrong with your powers of observation. I bet heaps of members would be grateful to read what you've noted about your own lorikeet and could apply your observations to theirs in lots of cases. :)
 

LaManuka

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Thank you Trish, that's very kind of you to say! The only hands-on experience I have to date is with those little purple-crowned maniacs, although in many respects you can just scale that up to fit rainbows and others. I suspect your Asiatic lories may be a totally different kettle of fishies though. I think I'd need a bit more experience with some different species before I could write a sticky with any kind of authority!
 

GaleriaGila

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Welcome! I'm so glad you joined. The best single tip for being a successful parront?
Stick with the Parrot Forums!
9lhIlM0.jpg
 

noodles123

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Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
Welcome! Adorable baby you've got there!
Here is my copy-and paste for potential/new owners:

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). ECCLECTUS PARROTS SHOULD NOT EAT PELLETS. Chop is another part of their diet. Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want. Pressure blasted or chemically treated wood (e.g., lumber and many other types of wood from the hardware contains toxic chemicals or are cut from trees that are naturally toxic.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added. Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet).

These birds have the intelligence of 3-4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).

OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces. Copper, zinc, nickel, some iron, lead etc are all toxic. Chicken wire and most screens= bad news.
 

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