How to tame a lovebird that already know how to fly?

Hello, so 3 days ago i just bought 2 lovebirds with my own money! Its my first time buying pets with my own.

So, i have 2 lovebirds. My prediction is 1 female and 1 male. The male has yellow color and the female has blue color. They are from a breeder and the house has many birds in there.

And in these past 2 days, i recently realize that the male one is quite calm and he is 2 months old and recently just learn how to crack and eat millets on its own. And i can hold him in my hands but i think he didnt like it.

While the female is 2.5 months old and is so scared whenever i get near the cage to change the food and water.

Then, yesterday i just found out that they stand near each other in the perch in the morning, but at evening i found out the male screaming and i saw the female maube attack him, but i'm not really sure because there isnt any scar or damaged feather, etc.

So what i wanna know is;
1. What should i do as my first step? I go to college in the morning and come back in the evening.

2. What is the sign of the 2 lovebirds like that means?

3. Can i still take a bird that already know how to fly?

4. Can i give the bird a bath by handling it and bath them with my hands? Or is it gonna give negative effects?

Sorry for bad english, and thankyou

they need to be separated immediately. You need a second cage before the "Female" kills the other one.

After doing that you can sit with them and slowly tame them, yes you can and should tame them without clipping their wings, don't push them or they will be scared of you forever. They set the pace not you. For now give them a shallow dish with some water in the cage and they will bathe themselves.

I will mostly reiterate what Triggs said.

1) Get them separate cages. Not only are you risking their safety by having them together, but if they are male and female they may eventually try to breed. That brings a whole host of other problems.

2) It means they want their own space.

3) You can absolutely tame a bird that can fly. I'll put a link below to some helpful information. Please be aware that lovebirds in pairs will often bond more strongly to one another and ignore you, so it will be lots of work on your part. Please don't clip their wings unless it's absolutely necessary for their safety (not for your convenience).

4) They'll probably bathe in their bowl. As they begin to trust you, they may like bathing any number of ways. Some birds will bathe in a little water in the sink. Some will bathe under the running faucet. Some like to go in the shower. That will be part of the process of learning and developing your relationship.

Here's the link I promised:
http://www.parrotforums.com/general-parrot-information/49144-tips-bonding-building-trust.html

I completely agree with what both Trigg and Inger have already said...You need to separate your Lovebirds into their own, individual cages immediately, because it's quite obvious that they don't like each other, and one or both of them is definitely, 100% going to get severely injured to the point that they need to be taken to an Avian Vet, or worse, one of both is going to be killed...So you absolutely cannot house them together inside of once cage...

All parrots form relationships with each other just like people do, and sometimes they like each other, sometimes they love each other, sometimes they just put up with each other, sometimes they hate each other, and often times when they hate each other they are also aggressive and violent with each other...The other problem that goes along with them disliking each other is that they are also usually extremely territorial, and in the case of pet parrots, their "territory" is their cage. So having two parrots that do not like each other living inside of the same "territory", meaning the same cage, and also sharing everything that is inside of the cage like food, water, perches, toys, etc. makes their aggression and fighting all that much more worse. So please, if you don't already have a second cage along with an entire other set-up including separate food and water dishes, perches, and toys (both cages need to have multiple different types of toys in them, at least 6 at any given time so that they don't become bored while you're away all day at school), then you need to go out immediately and buy a second cage, food and water dishes, toys, etc. and get them away from each other immediately...

I would put their cages in the same room with each other, with a bit of room between their cages, and let them be able to see other and talk to each other while you're gone each day. Hopefully they will get to the point where they can be outside of their cages while you're supervising them (NEVER ALONE, NOT EVER), and they won't fight with each other, but they most-likely won't be able to live together in the same cage again...But that's okay, it's not a big deal, as they are still members of the same "Flock", which includes the two of them, you, and everyone else that lives in your home and has regular contact with them and that they see daily...And it's fine that they can't be housed together in the same cage, because YOU are both the friend and companion to both of them, so as long as you are willing to work with both of them individually every single day, and they have each other to talk to from their separate cages, they'll be just fine...You are their friend, companion, and family.

It's NEVER too late to hand-tame a parrot, but you've only had them for a week, and that's not any time at all..However, you're not ever going to make much progress if you don't get them into their own cages first before you do anything else. Once they are each in their own cage with their own toys, dishes, etc., then you can start working with each of them INDIVIDUALLY, ALONE WITH JUST YOU AND ONE BIRD AT A TIME, and I would also take each bird to a different room away from the other bird to do your training/taming exercises, and I'd also remove their cage from the room that you're training them in so they aren't focused on just getting back inside of their cage the entire time. Spend a good 20 minutes a day working on just stepping-up and rewarding them with a "Training Treat", which is their very favorite treats that they only get while they are being trained and they do something you want/ask them to do and no other time...Do this with each bird every day, and then after you have a daily training session with each bird, then you can just spend time with them in your room, all 3 of you just hanging out watching TV, playing games, etc.

I would either buy or build each of them a little tabletop perch for them to be on when they are outside of their cages in your room, and that you can carry to any room of your house so they can spend time with you outside of their cages. They will also help you while you're training them, because they'll have a place to sit. You can either buy a little portable perch for each of them in a pet shop, or you can build one out of either wood or PVC piping and fittings. But they will both need their own perch too, they won't be able to share one, at least not until they are used to being outside of their cages together and they get to the point where they aren't constantly fighting with each other, which hopefully will happen with time...

Here i am, i bought another cage like u all suggest. But i notice that they dont fight anymore just like kissing or playing with each other. But i guess my point is to train so its okay to separate them.

I notice something.
1. The male which I call mango (yellow) is often fly to the corner cage if i put my hands inside. BUT, he doesnt shake or feel scared thats what i think. He just stare at me and jump to the corner. I tried putting my hands near him but outside the cage and he doesnt run away and doesnt bite.

2. The female which i call grape (blue) is often fly whenever i my hands are near her. But the way i see her is not scared too. But morr aggressively to fly away.

So, arter i separate them and go into different room to train. Do u mean i should let mango or grape outside their cage? And if yes. How to make them eat millets from my hands if they keep flying.

I once saw that there is a way to make them not fly by soak them in water.

What do i need to do to make it can eat millets from my hand? Is that the first step? Because when u say to get a t perch i bet that they will fly and of course it will fly too if i want them to step up.

Hi Nix227,

well done on the 2 different cages.
Lovebirds are feisty little ones who love to play as much as to fight - so well done.

A wet bird can still fly, so that will not work.

Training birds takes a whole lot of patience (and timing helps).
You can do it of course.
Just go very slow and let the birds decide how far you can go.
(they need to conquer their fear)

Take a tiny piece of millet (small sprig piece) - Bring your hand slowly to them and when you see they tense up, stop there untill they relax again.
Do not push them too much and always stop the contact/ trainingssesion before they had enough and run away.
Let them come to you if you can, if not: go to them only as much as they can bear it.

Do not grab them or hold them around the body till you have their complete trust.
Birds are not huggers, they like to cuddle up against each other sometimes, but full contact is not their style (so it is weird and scary being enclosed by a hand).
Stick to head scritches (maybe the nek a bit) and remember the beaks are very sensitive too even though they are made of hard material there are many nerve-endings in that area.


Many, many short sessions each day work better than one long one.

ChristaNL said:

Hi Nix227,

well done on the 2 different cages.
Lovebirds are feisty little ones who love to play as much as to fight - so well done.

A wet bird can still fly, so that will not work.

Training birds takes a whole lot of patience (and timing helps).
You can do it of course.
Just go very slow and let the birds decide how far you can go.
(they need to conquer their fear)

Take a tiny piece of millet (small sprig piece) - Bring your hand slowly to them and when you see they tense up, stop there untill they relax again.
Do not push them too much and always stop the contact/ trainingssesion before they had enough and run away.
Let them come to you if you can, if not: go to them only as much as they can bear it.

Do not grab them or hold them around the body till you have their complete trust.
Birds are not huggers, they like to cuddle up against each other sometimes, but full contact is not their style (so it is weird and scary being enclosed by a hand).
Stick to head scritches (maybe the nek a bit) and remember the beaks are very sensitive too even though they are made of hard material there are many nerve-endings in that area.


Many, many short sessions each day work better than one long one.

Click to expand...

Since i go to college everyday i put a bowl of millets in there.

And i heard that if we want to teach a bird. There is a technique to let them hungry and place millet in your hand until they eat it.

But what i think that isnt right because like u said. We cant rush things right? 😊

And i think i will try to give them seed from my hand and see if i can get closer little by little . Sounds like a good idea? Thankyouu

Nix277 said:

Since i go to college everyday i put a bowl of millets in there.

And i heard that if we want to teach a bird. There is a technique to let them hungry and place millet in your hand until they eat it.

But what i think that isnt right because like u said. We cant rush things right? 😊

And i think i will try to give them seed from my hand and see if i can get closer little by little . Sounds like a good idea? Thankyouu

Click to expand...

Ýou are absoluetely right: Never starve an animal 'to tame' it or 'teach it tricks'.


Usually we give the birds their 'daily food": fresh vegetables and pellets/a healthy seedmix and keep their special treats / things they really love to eat for training.
(Every interaction you have with your bird is considered training - because everything you do together changes the way you like/trust each other.)


It takes a while to learn the birds bodylanguage and he/she will need some time to learn yours, but it is worth it.

You need to spend weeks gaining his trust...It is too soon to be even attempting to pick him up, but you shouldn't keep him locked up. Treat him like you would a woman (or man) you are dating....hopefully you treat women (or men) well lol!

Hey there, so after i separate them in diff cages. I tried to train the male one

Today, i tried to reach my hand near him and he moves back a little. Then since i saw him didnt shake, i tried to hand feed seed from my finger. He didnt take it.

Then i open some youtube videos about lovebird singing and he quickly fly to the phone screen to see it too, whenever i change the direction he follows it.

Then after that i tried to feed him again from my finger and he took it finally!!!

But i feel he become a little more aggressive after the video. He did bite me a little all over my finger but it didnt feel like a hard bite. Only a little bite and it dosent feel pain.

Then i tried to feed him again outside the cage by give him millet and he ate it, but now whenever i put my finger in the cells from outside the cage he come to it and try to bite. I let it bite but the bite is not strong like earlier.

What does that mean? Did i do something wrong ?

Please tell me for my progress.

How to make lovebird atop biting my hand? I see his face is not angry. It looks curious but it becomes biting me. How to start making it stop?

And what is the max length of time to train a bird?

Nix277 said:

How to make lovebird atop biting my hand? I see his face is not angry. It looks curious but it becomes biting me. How to start making it stop?

And what is the max length of time to train a bird?

Click to expand...