Need some direction for aggressive macaw

I have a new to me B&G. He is 31 years old. He is fairly aggressive. Lunging and biting, although he has not broken my skin...as yet. It's been many years since I've had to train a parrot and I'm really stumbling. We were out of town for a week and he was babysat by my adult daughter. Basically fed.

Can someone point me in the direction of a good website or book or some sort of training I can do with him? He no longer tolerates head scratching and will not step up without the use of a stick (which I really want to get rid of).

I feel like he's disintegrating before my eyes. I could really use some help.

Thank you.

Is he really agressive or just testing?
From what I've read it is a typical macaw thing: pushing boundries to see how far they will go.
Or just plain and simple biting out of fear ...

I have sort-of-likewise issues with my new houseguest, exept she is pretty okay most of the time away from the cage and really unpredictable when on/in it.


The go-to is targettraining (and clickertraining) of course: a way of clear communicating without even risking a bite.
(I suck at this and Sunny goes positively wild when she has the idea you are withholding food from her ... so making her "earn" it/ use it as a reward backfires with a vengeance ... she knows it's there and she is not getting any! / still finding a way around it-- parrots with a past are alway a nice challenge wouldn't you say so? )


Was your new friend nice and tame in his previous home/ residence?
Of are you without any information about his past?


Oh- sorry, there is some really good targettraining info here, I just don't have links for you (yet)
I am @ http://www.parrotforums.com/general-parrot-information/49144-tips-bonding-building-trust.html at the moment, trying to find an idea that works for us here.


All I can tell you is: dont let it get to you!
Parrots are fun!
Stressy parrot always leads to stressy owner and that generates more stress right back at the parrot.
So dont fall for that one!
It is difficult, but he cant do it (break this circle), you have to help him - by being the "relax, everything is allright"-example.
(I am not saying it is easy, but *do* try!)
(I keep telling this myself over and over and over, esp. after sticking yet another bandaid on my arm)


The one thing you can let another do for you is- get him tested on every possible disease and imbalances in his metabolism (bloodwork), so you know there are no hidden illnesses that cause him pain or making him feel miserable.

I have very little information about his previous home(s). His previous owner died after having brain cancer. The young EMT rescued her from abhorrent circumstances. He was locked in a dog cage in a closed room. No food or water. Dull colors and a crooked beak (which has since straightened).

He's been with the EMT for 3 years and now the young lady is going off to college. He eats Wal-Mart food and I've tried to get him interested in RoudyBush, but so far, no go. He has never broken my skin but I'll be honest, I'm a bit afraid of him. I'm told he's 31 years old.

He has a big, beautiful cage with a playpen. When I let him out he immediately climbs down and explores, but lunges at me and the dog and the cat. With the EMT he played with their dogs, or so I'm told.

He will say "mmmm" for a peanut, most of the time. I've been able to scratch him previously, but since being gone a week, I honestly haven't attempted it.

I know this is mostly a ME issue. I don't think he's lunging out of fear? His eyes are dilating big back to small most of the time while we interact.

I've done the whole blinking thing LOL...seems silly?

Anyway, probably way more information than you were looking for....

Noel

Nope, I for one *love* to hear macawstories.


I've only had Sunny a couple of months now and am still figuring things out.
She is younger (10) but has plenty of issues of her own.

On the floor she goes into play-modus and will forget about pressurebiting almost immediately. Overexited much?
Chasing an empty sodabottle and trowing it is her favorite, but she'll just break that off, sprint towards me and grab me with a foot and try to regurgitate.
I decline, some times she goes back to playing with the bottle (distraction succesfull) and sometimes she'll start a wrestling situation, keeling over and then vicing me (not really biting, but painfull because of the pressure).
It's not really relaxing for me, I can tell you.
(and yes she will try to do the same with my toes as my hands/fingers)

Not sure if she is in hormonal overdrive or if the molting atm. also really ruins her good mood!

The one thing that really saved me is: she looooves getting soaked.
So "go shower? " is something she will step up for and she is a different bird afterwards (and not just because she is wet and horrible looking)
It really seems to soothe an itch.
(and since bath-time is 99% positve it helps me *a lot* to relax around her more)

Still hoping for a painfree (for me as well as for her ) day.

well....
They are big birds (I also have greys, like you do) and verry different from what I've been used to.
Never boring!


oh found these:
http://www.parrotforums.com/training/57935-brainstorming-biting-parrots.html
http://www.parrotforums.com/training/63988-bite-pressure-training.html


if you wanted to do more reading

How long has He/She been with you?

The older the bird the longer it takes to get comfortable with it's new flock. A general observation but usually correct.

The more homes they have had makes it usually longer before they start to trust.

Patience, understanding, love, and time.
Sometimes alot of time.

Charlie has been with me about 3 weeks now. He wants to get off the cage and roam the floors, but he charges me, the dogs, the cats...I have video of him with his previous owner where he is on the floor and playing with dogs and cats, so they are familiar for him.

the problem with dogs and cats isn't so much his familiarity with them but how they are with him. Keep in mind no matter how trained their DNA screams at them that macaw is food and just one bite can prove fatal through infection. I'd personally keep dogs and cats out of the room whenever the cage is open

Do you know much about ABA (applied behavior analysis)?



I have an umbrella cockatoo whom I rehomed and vets have complimented her "well-adjusted" nature...she wasn't always that way...not saying it's a cure-all, but worth a shot.

noodles123 said:

Do you know much about ABA (applied behavior analysis)?

Click to expand...

Sounds like fun, do you have a favorite link/ site?
(of course google is our friend, but sometimes it pays to know someone who knows)

Here is my summary...sorry it is so long! I will put some website links at the end.


Basically, ABA it is changing the environment to change behavior (this includes manipulation of the physical space, routines, reactions, punishment, teaching/shaping new skills etc).



These environmental changes can increase or decrease any behaviors (good or bad).

Theoretically, every behavior serves at least 1 of 4 functions (some behaviors are dual function but that gets tricky):



1. Escape (to get out of something or avoid a non-preferred situation (If a bird bites to make people go away)

2. Tangibles (to get a physical object/food etc- if a bird throws a fit when you eat donuts and the bird loves donuts, then it can be assumed that it is doing it to get the donut, especially if it doesn't throw a fit when it already has a donut)

3. Sensory (to meet a sensory need, such as making a headache go away or decreasing anxiety via feather plucking, or burning off energy)

4. Attention (to get attention from people in general or certain people---Remember-- some birds and kids will take ANY attention (even if you think that you are punishing them by yelling, you could actually be reinforcing the behavior via attention)..behaviors such as screaming, biting, dancing etc could all fall here DEPENDING ON WHAT HAPPENS NEXT (REACTIONS). Similarly, when you respond to desired behaviors (like stepping up) with attention and those increase, then you are using the birds desire for attention to your advantage and that is the goal.

Unless you chart out what happens before and after a behavior, it can be difficult to differentiate what is actually going on. Sometimes, escape behaviors may come off as attention seeking behaviors etc. That is why you have to find patterns and think very objectively about your own role in the behavior (good or bad).


Start by keeping a log (ABC LOG). This will show you trends in behavior. You can even set up a laptop or phone to videotape events when aggression is anticipated and then go back and chart it. It is very hard to track in real-time (esp. when it is just you and the bird)

Antecedent= what happened right before an event (e.g., walked into the room with Bob and fed the bird. Bob extended his hand to remove a dish);

Behavior= describe exactly what the bird did without emotion (e.g., eyes pinned, lunged at Bob's forefinger)

Consequence= What happened right after the behavior- it is important to note that this isn't the same as a "punishment" (although it could be)---it is merely the reactions/results that follow. (e.g., Bob removed his forefinger OR Bob ran away OR Bob yelled OR Bob presented the bird with a treat to get it back into its cage OR Bob sang a song)

Once you have observed and have started to see trends, try to isolate the function of the behavior.

Once you think you know, put the bird in a situation to test your hypothesis---

Reinforcers MUST match the 4 functions (attention, escape, tangible and sensory).

You can tell you have isolated the reinforcer when the presentation or removal of that reinforcer INCREASES a specific behavior (depending on the behavior).

EXAMPLES:

A. Bob has a fit at the grocery store and mom yells at Bobby. Bob continues to cry and fits increase over time. The reinforcer (yelling-although undesirable in his mom's eyes) is the attention he seeks and it is the motivating factor behind the undesired behavior. How do we know? It caused the behavior to increase.



B. On the flip side, same situation (store and Bobby)- Bobby throws a fit and mom takes him to the car. Fits increase. This is an example of escape motivated behavior. He doesn't want to be at the store and when he yells he gets out of an uncomfortable situation. Again, mom might think of going to the car as a bad thing, but if it increases the behavior, then it is escape motivated and reinforcing to Bob.

C. Alternately, Bob has a fit and demands chocolate. He keeps screaming until mom eventually gives in and buys him the chocolate (tangible). Now Bob demands chocolate every time they visit the store.

D. Finally, Bob touches everything as he and his mother walk down the aisles (despite her insistence that he stop). He does this consistently whether or not she ignores the behavior. Barring attention as the motivator ---assuming this is NOT a dual function situation, then sensory would probably be the best bet.


Some bird-related examples:

A. if the bird doesn't exhibit this behavior when it is getting 1-on-1 attention from someone, then the goal/function is attention (regardless of the type of attention). If the behavior starts when attention is withdrawn then again, attention is the reinforcer.

B: If the bird only does it when desirable objects are around and will actively work to get those objects, then it is reinforced by tangible items. For instance, if a bird cusses and gets a cookie and you observe that suddenly the bird is cussing like crazy it is because its behavior was successfully reinforced by the cookie (hence the increase in behavior).

and so on and so fourth...C...D....

note: When testing to see if you have isolated the correct reinforcer, it is important to be as neutral as possible when presenting tangible items to make sure that it is actually the item and not just your presence/attention that is motivating the bird.

For every non-desirable means of obtaining the 4 functions above, we can teach or reinforce socially acceptable alternatives that meet the same innate need. So, if a bird seeks attention, your reward for that bird MUST BE attention (not food, not a toy, but attention from the source it craves)---This means that you have to actively ignore attention-seeking behaviors that are bad and pay special attention/pour on the praise when good. You want to strengthen the good by providing reinforcement and weaken the bad by avoiding reinforcement.

ALL TYPES OF REINFORCEMENT MUST INCREASE A BEHAVIOR!!!

2 TYPES:

Positive reinforcement- The presentation of a stimulus that reinforces a behavior (+ attention, +tangibles, +sensory, +escape)


Negative reinforcement- The removal of an aversive stimulus that STRENGTHENS a behavior. THIS IS NOT PUNISHMENT--

Exp: If you eat 1 more bite or your pizza, you don't have to eat your spinach (-tangible or sensory); OR If you get a 90% or higher on your math quiz you don't have to do homework for the rest of the week (-tangible) OR when you stop crying you can come inside where it is warm (lol--I don't do this....just popped into my head).

Once you know what need the bird/kid is trying to meet, you have to teach them how to meet that need in a more acceptable way, or provide structured times for them to meet that need without causing trouble.

For instance- a bird that screams for attention probably also talks at times or makes quieter noises, maybe it could even be taught to ring a bell instead of screaming. Whatever your preferred alternative to the screaming, your reward will be attention (if it does what you like + attention, if it screams -attention). When the bird screams, attention is withdrawn but when the bird says, "hello baby" you come in a pour on the praise.



This reinforcement must immediately follow the desired behavior. This strengthens the likelihood that the bird will begin using alternatives to screaming once he realizes screaming isn't going to work because ultimately his goal is attention and he doesn't care how he gets it.

And that is pretty much that...I don't blame you if you didn't read it all

Many of the websites are even more wordy than my explanation, but here are some links for using it with kids:

Applied Behavioral Strategies - Basics of Applied Behavior Analysis

https://my.vanderbilt.edu/specialed...1-ABA-Principles-for-Classroom-Management.pdf

correction to my post above:


***Exp: If you eat 1 more bite or your pizza, you don't have to eat your spinach (ESCAPE is the function if it works, but you are taking away the aversive item-spinach); OR



***If you get a 90% or higher on your math quiz you don't have to do homework for the rest of the week (ESCAPE is the function if it works, but you are taking away the aversive item-test)



OR when you stop crying you can come inside where it is warm (lol--I don't do this....just popped into my head).

noodles123 said:

OR when you stop crying you can come inside where it is warm (lol--I don't do this....just popped into my head).

Click to expand...

We're getting triple digits... so I'd kind of hope it would be nice and cool inside! LOL


As far as websites and such to go for training info? Well, this may help.

http://www.parrotforums.com/training/72250-free-training-resources.html

The more websites the merrier. \o/

Not sure about OP but the biggest challenge for me is not breaking trainingsessions down into managble pieces (parrots always show when they are almost done), but planning the road ahead...
(where do I actually want to go and what small enough steps do we need to get there / having an ADD-brain doesn't really help )


Like what Noel described:
Her macaw is not afraid to leave the cage or even go exploring on the floor ( which I think is great for a new arrival)- but once there the running towards people/dogs and nipping them ... is no fun and ruins the relationship.
Sunny sometimes storms towards me (in play) and it can be a pretty intimidating sight.


So where do you start?
At the running?
Or the nipping?
or before that?
(outside the cage, but not on the floor -- but I've read most parrots get extra-defensive on/around their cages)
(or even inside the cage? Far away from the 'problem')


I know Sunny's run to me will not end in painfull-somethings (well most of the time anyway, she does get carried away sometimes) so easy for me to talk ...

How would you guys do that?

There are some different ways to approach a complex behavior (of chain of behaviors)---in sped we would use forward or backward chaining to teach a set of steps.

In this case, forward chaining (see link at bottom) is likely the way to go, but before you can teach the steps, you need to isolate the motivation for the behavior. In order to TEACH the new behavior, you need to know how to properly meet the function of the old/bad behavior and that function will need to be used as a reward of some sort during the forward chaining teaching process.



I would start before the behavior even begins- figure out the antecedents/triggers.

Also, "setting events" are things that can make a certain behavior more likely and those would be things like , "didn't get enough sleep", "had a cold", "returned from vacation"---so there are environmental (cage position, unfamiliar objects, height in relation to eye-level) and setting events to consider, then the actual things that happen right before (antecedents) and after (consequences/results/effects) the behavior.


Once you know the function, look into "forward chaining".


I bird or child has to be motivated intrinsically or extrinsically in order to learn new things. As long as a person/bird's needs are being met by a certain behavior (however bad) then they have no desire/need to learn something new, as the old and bad way has worked for them so far (otherwise it wouldn't continue). That is why you will need to know the WHY before you get to the HOW.



https://www.gvsu.edu/cms4/asset/64CB422A-ED08-43F0-F795CA9DE364B6BE/chaining.pdf