The Greater Vasa is an ancient and unusual parrot from Madagascar and Indian Ocean islands. It has dark brown or dark grey-Black plumage and a large pink beak (males and females have similar plumage but, like birds of prey, females are significantly larger and dominant). Changes in skin/plumage colouring when breeding, females that go bald during breeding season, anatomy and breeding habits, including polygamy by hens, are all unusual for parrots. It is also said to hunt and eat meat in the wild and has been said to be a link between raptors and parrots.
Although odd, these parrots make exceptional pets. Often labeled as a "Velcro Bird", it is not nearly as emotionally needy as many of the cockatoos. They enjoy cuddling, and are not monogamous birds. This means they aren't usually one-person birds and aren't usually inclined to defend their territory. Usually quiet birds, they have a loud call during breeding season. Considered large birds, they top off at around 20 inches. Although, are slender birds with long necks, making them look smaller than they really are. They have a blackish plumage, and can change their feather color from black-dark brown without molting! Their diet should consist 68% of formulated, high quality psittacine pellets, and 30% fresh fruit and vegetables, such as apple, pear, banana, cactus fruit (not the cactus itself), Pomegranate seeds (not the rhine), carrot, beans, fresh corn, and green peas. Cooked foods should include beans, rice, and other bird-safe cooked foods (consult your avian vet). Keep in mind parrots almost always love spicy foods, but not too spicy! All foods listed should be organic of course. Never feed chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, avocado, and pits of any fruits, to be safe do not feed any fruits that have pits such as plums, peaches and nectarines. The last 2% of their diet should include some type of protein (optional but highly recommended as in the wild they catch prey). This protein should be very limited and fed in VERY small amounts, and should be cut in small cubes for easier consumption. Best fed as a weekly treat. Very vigorous feeders, and food intake should be regulated. Never put a cuttlebone in the cage, powder it and mix it into pellets. (small amounts). Female birds need a higher calcium intake, and talk to an avian vet for more questions regarding health and vitamins. Should have access to sunlight at least one hour a day, or a couple hours a week. This will prevent Vitamin-D deficiency. Have at least four perches of various diameter in the enclosure, natural perches are best, as they have the most variance in diameter. The curved "concrete" perches should be included, as it files down the nails of your bird. The cage should be at least 36"x24"x36" with 3/4"-1" bar spacing. The bigger the cage the better! Put many toys in the cage, with variety. Some suggestions include noise toys, foraging toys, destroy-toys, and exercise toys. Never overcrowd the cage with toys, and leave enough room for the bird to hop, climb around. In addition to toys, your bird needs a playing-stand, "T-stand" and plenty of human interaction. If you do not interact with your bird, it will become depressed, plucking feathers, screaming, and self mutilation, if this happens visit an avian vet right away! DO NOT mistake feather plucking for the females going bald during breeding season (they can't reach their head anyway.) This is NOT a guide to caring for your bird, just the basics. Get further information, research on the internet, talk to breeders, and buy books.
Although rare in US aviculture, they aren't expensive compared to other rare birds. Normal incubation is a short 18 days, with the young fledging the nest in only 7 weeks. In artificial incubation and hand rearing, babies wean and are independent in 10 weeks. Their quick development has greatly reduced their prices. Greater Vasa Parrots hatch with rather large upper mandibles that have round feeding pads which are oddly at the tip of the mandible instead of the base. NEVER buy an unweaned baby bird unless you are VERY experienced at hand-feeding.
If you are reading this post and are considering a Vasa Parrot as a companion there is a lot to consider. One of the main points is the cost. These birds require supplies and caging for LARGE parrots. These birds also require a cage that is longer than taller. An aviary is recommended as they are very strong flyers and compare to that of raptors, added they are very active birds. Very good freeflight parrots. You can expect an initial cost (Bird itself, cage, perches, start-off toys) at around $2000-$2500, and a monthly cost of $40-$70 (including fresh fruit, vegetables, pelleted diet, and toys). Avian vet bills can vary from $150-$5000+ per visit, cheaper end being checkups, and more expensive end for surgeries.
I hope you liked my little Vasa parrot post, i hope you learned a thing or two, just want to share my knowledge of vasas with you guys!
To learn more visit
Although odd, these parrots make exceptional pets. Often labeled as a "Velcro Bird", it is not nearly as emotionally needy as many of the cockatoos. They enjoy cuddling, and are not monogamous birds. This means they aren't usually one-person birds and aren't usually inclined to defend their territory. Usually quiet birds, they have a loud call during breeding season. Considered large birds, they top off at around 20 inches. Although, are slender birds with long necks, making them look smaller than they really are. They have a blackish plumage, and can change their feather color from black-dark brown without molting! Their diet should consist 68% of formulated, high quality psittacine pellets, and 30% fresh fruit and vegetables, such as apple, pear, banana, cactus fruit (not the cactus itself), Pomegranate seeds (not the rhine), carrot, beans, fresh corn, and green peas. Cooked foods should include beans, rice, and other bird-safe cooked foods (consult your avian vet). Keep in mind parrots almost always love spicy foods, but not too spicy! All foods listed should be organic of course. Never feed chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, avocado, and pits of any fruits, to be safe do not feed any fruits that have pits such as plums, peaches and nectarines. The last 2% of their diet should include some type of protein (optional but highly recommended as in the wild they catch prey). This protein should be very limited and fed in VERY small amounts, and should be cut in small cubes for easier consumption. Best fed as a weekly treat. Very vigorous feeders, and food intake should be regulated. Never put a cuttlebone in the cage, powder it and mix it into pellets. (small amounts). Female birds need a higher calcium intake, and talk to an avian vet for more questions regarding health and vitamins. Should have access to sunlight at least one hour a day, or a couple hours a week. This will prevent Vitamin-D deficiency. Have at least four perches of various diameter in the enclosure, natural perches are best, as they have the most variance in diameter. The curved "concrete" perches should be included, as it files down the nails of your bird. The cage should be at least 36"x24"x36" with 3/4"-1" bar spacing. The bigger the cage the better! Put many toys in the cage, with variety. Some suggestions include noise toys, foraging toys, destroy-toys, and exercise toys. Never overcrowd the cage with toys, and leave enough room for the bird to hop, climb around. In addition to toys, your bird needs a playing-stand, "T-stand" and plenty of human interaction. If you do not interact with your bird, it will become depressed, plucking feathers, screaming, and self mutilation, if this happens visit an avian vet right away! DO NOT mistake feather plucking for the females going bald during breeding season (they can't reach their head anyway.) This is NOT a guide to caring for your bird, just the basics. Get further information, research on the internet, talk to breeders, and buy books.
Although rare in US aviculture, they aren't expensive compared to other rare birds. Normal incubation is a short 18 days, with the young fledging the nest in only 7 weeks. In artificial incubation and hand rearing, babies wean and are independent in 10 weeks. Their quick development has greatly reduced their prices. Greater Vasa Parrots hatch with rather large upper mandibles that have round feeding pads which are oddly at the tip of the mandible instead of the base. NEVER buy an unweaned baby bird unless you are VERY experienced at hand-feeding.
If you are reading this post and are considering a Vasa Parrot as a companion there is a lot to consider. One of the main points is the cost. These birds require supplies and caging for LARGE parrots. These birds also require a cage that is longer than taller. An aviary is recommended as they are very strong flyers and compare to that of raptors, added they are very active birds. Very good freeflight parrots. You can expect an initial cost (Bird itself, cage, perches, start-off toys) at around $2000-$2500, and a monthly cost of $40-$70 (including fresh fruit, vegetables, pelleted diet, and toys). Avian vet bills can vary from $150-$5000+ per visit, cheaper end being checkups, and more expensive end for surgeries.
I hope you liked my little Vasa parrot post, i hope you learned a thing or two, just want to share my knowledge of vasas with you guys!
To learn more visit
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Thanks!
