New Baby Quaker (Mango)

Natti337

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Nov 25, 2019
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Hi Everyone!! This is going to be long and I apologize in advance!

I convinced my girlfriend to get a baby Quaker and we are both obsessed. I have done so much research on youtube and read so many articles and we know the basics like not reacting to your bird when it bites, having it on a healthy pellet diet, teaching it how to step up, lots of love and attention etc but I still have so many unanswered questions and i want to make sure we get this right.

A little back ground, Mango (think it's a boy) is 12 weeks old and he was handfed. He is on a pellet diet and is sweet, occasionally nibbling a little but nothing hard. The cage he currently has is small but his new cage will be arriving in 2 days. He really hasn't spent much time in his cage other than to sleep and eat, mostly he hangs out on our lap or on his little play gym but he doesn't play much still . (Will attach pictures of everything). He likes to get head scratches and will play with some toys outside of his cage but not for long. He will step up if we bribe him with one of his pellets, sometimes he will step up without being bribed much as long as he is out of the cage. He has been at my girlfriends apartment now for 5 days.

As for the questions:

He won't take any treats, the only thing he will take as a treat are his actual pelletes, is this because he is still a baby? Should i keep insisting with different things and should i put them in his bowl for him to try first?

On average he will be home alone about 8-10 hrs a day during the week, he will be able to get 2-3 hrs of play time in the evenings and all day on the weekends, will he be ok? could it be bad to give him too much attention on the weekends?

Should he have food and water accessible at all times when he is out of his cage with us?

is it ok to have multiple people handling him before he is fully trained? (Everyone has been coming over to meet him and play with him)

Should we mist him? We tried setting up a bowl for him to take a bath but he wouldnt go.

Sometimes he doesnt want to step up on our finger to come out of his cage but will step up on a perch, is this ok? or will it make him feel forced?

At what age will he be considered an adult?

We don't plan on clipping his wings and have bought him a flight suit that we havent tried on him yet. Should we wait until he is more comfortable with us to begin training with it? and does anyone have experience with these things as far as safety?

What temperature is ok to start bringing him outside?

Should we set up his new cage and leave him in his current cage with the new cage in the same room so he gets used to it?

Thank you very much for whoever takes the time to read this novel! Any advice is so greatly appreciated.





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Laurasea

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Congratulations!!!
I'm a bit short on time right now , but I'll visit your thread again with more advice.

Yes exposure to lots if people is great, as long as he isn't fearful.
Offering lots of new foods while young is a great thing. Eating it front of him, letting him explore it on his own, what ever works or a combination of everything. This is a time for learning from his flock. Young birds need to eat more often and nap more often. So keep food and water always near him.
My quaker is balanced on one foot on my thumb as I write this ! ;) I have three ! It's Neptune who is hanging with me right now .
Glad you joined, congratulations on that beautiful baby!
 
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noodles123

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Welcome! Your baby is so very cute!!!

Get rid of that hut-- they are very dangerous and they are also hormonal triggers. Also-- keeping him so close to the kitchen poses risks in terms of burning food, gas emissions etc.
 

Laurasea

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Here are two links I think every bird owner should read. The first link covers many behaviors it starts with basic bird body language then as you go down talks about biting, screaming, feather plucking ECT.
https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/bird-behavior/

This one is really great to. Talks about the importance of rituals, hand feeding, cage placement and more. Im not a fan of clicker training though, I just say good birdie. It does help to explain things to birds, tell them how long you will be gone, I swear they can read our minds or something. When I first had a single GCC she would get stressed when I was gone to work. Telling her when I would be back and other changes really helped her.
https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/stress-reduction-for-parrot-companions/

On encouraging baths, I use a large sturdy square casserole dish, ad 1-2 inches of slightly warm water. Then really slash around in it with your hand. This should be irresistible to your bird and he will jump in for a bath. My birds also like misting , make sure you dry and clean your water bottle after each use so nasties don't grow in it. Spray a fine must pointing up so the mist falls down on the bird don't just spray right at the bird.

Quakers are very intelligent parrots and are very social birds. When you are home they should be out. Set up several areas, the cage top, and have a movable stand that he can hang out near but not on you when needed. I also put screws in the ceiling in a couple of spots and used fishing line to hang hoop and spiral perches for them to fly to and hang out, frees up floor space and keeps them off furniture ( somewhat) this way your bird can still be out and about even if you can't give one on one attention. Mornings are very important to parrots. You need to get up early and spend at least a half hour with them before work. You want to take the time really. They need to know the flock survived the night, reafirm bonds , and so on. Have them be part of making breakfast, share breakfast with them. There are many bird behaviorist that fix problem birds by implementing a morning ritual.

When you leave for work provide some foraging iteam, even leaving an old paperback book to shred. Or a pepper stuffed with seeds. Quakers love toys. You need to have several different types, and then Spares so you can take out and rotate them. You need a noise maker toy, a shredding toy, a foot toy, a puzzle toy, a wood chewable toy, even setting up perches for several jump ing around is great. Use your veggies as toys too. The dollar store and DIY are your freind! We have a member showing a lot of awesome toys she made!

Harness training start now, young birds are the easiest to train. Read watch the DVD before start.

I consider them adult at a year or a little older. Puberty for my guy came at five months and was intense for the last several months. Finally that's calming down. He now is cage protective ad you've read quakers are. But I have a perch in the door and when I swing it open he is right there ready for kisses. But out w hand in his cage and he looses his mind.

Rapid temperature changes are extremely hard on parrots. But you can take your bird in his harness to Lowe's or home Depot, with caution. Or on car rides...As for outside I'd say 60s??? I live in Florida lol

Quakers are re-homed often. Because they are so smart and so social they go crazy if their needs aren't met. They already love the sound of their voice, so becoming a screamer is a problem, as self mutilation and feather plucking. So you want to set up yourself for success by preventing that. Basically you've adopted a kid and you need to treat them like that, they are a part of your whole life, not just a couple of hours a day.

As to the weekends, yes to out if the cage as much as possible. But I think it's still a good idea to put them back in the cage for an hour or so if entertaining themselves. I'm home all day a d my birds are out all day. But when I'm sick I had to put them up. This lead to screaming non stop for hours, and I was to I'll to have them out. Now they know they have to spend a couple of hours in the cage doing their own thing. Now when I have to have them caged they are chill. But they still spend easily six hours a day out as I'm a stay at home person.
 
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Natti337

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Welcome! Your baby is so very cute!!!

Get rid of that hut-- they are very dangerous and they are also hormonal triggers. Also-- keeping him so close to the kitchen poses risks in terms of burning food, gas emissions etc.

Thank you! That is just his temporary spot while his new cage comes in on Wednesday and for the time being we have been very careful about having him away from the kitchen while cooking. I read up on the huts and I did read some horror stories but my parents Quakers both have one and they love them :(. They sleep in them every night and they've had the for 10 plus years. Is there a different material maybe you recomend or do you think it's just no good at all? I just feel bad about his feet being tired from being in his perches all the time.
 
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Natti337

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Thank you! I really appreciate your in depth response SO MUCH. I will read every link you provided. We went a little toy crazy because we want him to be really happy when he is in his cage, I just don't want to overwhelm him with too many things or too much love. And as far as the harness training you don't think itll scare him too much and break the little trust we have right now?
I'm sorry I have so many questions lol! This is nerve wrecking, it's like having a baby.

Thank you again!

Here are two links I think every bird owner should read. The first link covers many behaviors it starts with basic bird body language then as you go down talks about biting, screaming, feather plucking ECT.
https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/bird-behavior/

This one is really great to. Talks about the importance of rituals, hand feeding, cage placement and more. Im not a fan of clicker training though, I just say good birdie. It does help to explain things to birds, tell them how long you will be gone, I swear they can read our minds or something. When I first had a single GCC she would get stressed when I was gone to work. Telling her when I would be back and other changes really helped her.
https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/stress-reduction-for-parrot-companions/

On encouraging baths, I use a large sturdy square casserole dish, ad 1-2 inches of slightly warm water. Then really slash around in it with your hand. This should be irresistible to your bird and he will jump in for a bath. My birds also like misting , make sure you dry and clean your water bottle after each use so nasties don't grow in it. Spray a fine must pointing up so the mist falls down on the bird don't just spray right at the bird.

Quakers are very intelligent parrots and are very social birds. When you are home they should be out. Set up several areas, the cage top, and have a movable stand that he can hang out near but not on you when needed. I also put screws in the ceiling in a couple of spots and used fishing line to hang hoop and spiral perches for them to fly to and hang out, frees up floor space and keeps them off furniture ( somewhat) this way your bird can still be out and about even if you can't give one on one attention. Mornings are very important to parrots. You need to get up early and spend at least a half hour with them before work. You want to take the time really. They need to know the flock survived the night, reafirm bonds , and so on. Have them be part of making breakfast, share breakfast with them. There are many bird behaviorist that fix problem birds by implementing a morning ritual.

When you leave for work provide some foraging iteam, even leaving an old paperback book to shred. Or a pepper stuffed with seeds. Quakers love toys. You need to have several different types, and then Spares so you can take out and rotate them. You need a noise maker toy, a shredding toy, a foot toy, a puzzle toy, a wood chewable toy, even setting up perches for several jump ing around is great. Use your veggies as toys too. The dollar store and DIY are your freind! We have a member showing a lot of awesome toys she made!

Harness training start now, young birds are the easiest to train. Read watch the DVD before start.

I consider them adult at a year or a little older. Puberty for my guy came at five months and was intense for the last several months. Finally that's calming down. He now is cage protective ad you've read quakers are. But I have a perch in the door and when I swing it open he is right there ready for kisses. But out w hand in his cage and he looses his mind.

Rapid temperature changes are extremely hard on parrots. But you can take your bird in his harness to Lowe's or home Depot, with caution. Or on car rides...As for outside I'd say 60s??? I live in Florida lol

Quakers are re-homed often. Because they are so smart and so social they go crazy if their needs aren't met. They already love the sound of their voice, so becoming a screamer is a problem, as self mutilation and feather plucking. So you want to set up yourself for success by preventing that. Basically you've adopted a kid and you need to treat them like that, they are a part of your whole life, not just a couple of hours a day.

As to the weekends, yes to out if the cage as much as possible. But I think it's still a good idea to put them back in the cage for an hour or so if entertaining themselves. I'm home all day a d my birds are out all day. But when I'm sick I had to put them up. This lead to screaming non stop for hours, and I was to I'll to have them out. Now they know they have to spend a couple of hours in the cage doing their own thing. Now when I have to have them caged they are chill. But they still spend easily six hours a day out as I'm a stay at home person.
 

LaManuka

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The horror stories you read about those huts are all true. Birds can easily become tangled in loose threads and lose a limb or strangle themselves. They can cause fatal intestinal blockages when the synthetic fibres are ingested from being chewed on (and this can happen without your knowledge) and can cause hormonal aggression as the bird can come to see it as a nesting site and may view you as a rival, or worse, a mate! There are of course exceptions to these circumstances but in my view it’s just not worth the risk, you do NOT want anything like this happening to your birdie. Plus they don’t actually “need” them anyway.
 

noodles123

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Jul 11, 2018
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Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
Welcome! Your baby is so very cute!!!

Get rid of that hut-- they are very dangerous and they are also hormonal triggers. Also-- keeping him so close to the kitchen poses risks in terms of burning food, gas emissions etc.

Thank you! That is just his temporary spot while his new cage comes in on Wednesday and for the time being we have been very careful about having him away from the kitchen while cooking. I read up on the huts and I did read some horror stories but my parents Quakers both have one and they love them :(. They sleep in them every night and they've had the for 10 plus years. Is there a different material maybe you recomend or do you think it's just no good at all? I just feel bad about his feet being tired from being in his perches all the time.

The hut is definitely a safety hazard-- if you are bent on having something like that, maybe sea-grass could be safer but even then, they could still get tangled in it potentially.

I think that most birds tend to like huts/tents (whether it is good for them or not---it tends to be their nature to find dark, nest-like places). I know my cockatoo does, but she doesn't get one because it makes her hormonal to have access to things like that (no dark spaces for Noodles).

Now, if your adult quakers aren't giving you any hormonal issues and they are doing okay, then that is good BUT, I wouldn't start a new bird off with one just because it is a gamble in terms of hormones and health. The bottom line (at least in my opinion) is that they are not necessary. Birds of all types do fine without them, so why risk it by introducing something unnecessary that could potentially harm them.

If you want a break from the perches, get some bird-safe rope perches (not cotton preferably). Also, by varying the types of perches in the cage, you prevent your birds feet from rubbing on the same areas all of the time, so that is recommended either way (to prevent bumble foot).
 

Laurasea

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As always I buck the trend here on sleeping. Yes everything said above is true, threads, those fluffy huts are the worst! Crop impactions ECT.

I make my own using safer materials..check and remake them regularly. All of my birds use a sleeping chamber..
We are all here to share our experience.

I don't give my birds those chew toys with rope fringe, or fabric fringe toys because of the risks of threads. There are so many toys like that and I never hear that discussed.
 
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Natti337

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I will be removing, don't want to chance anything. Thank you!

The horror stories you read about those huts are all true. Birds can easily become tangled in loose threads and lose a limb or strangle themselves. They can cause fatal intestinal blockages when the synthetic fibres are ingested from being chewed on (and this can happen without your knowledge) and can cause hormonal aggression as the bird can come to see it as a nesting site and may view you as a rival, or worse, a mate! There are of course exceptions to these circumstances but in my view it’s just not worth the risk, you do NOT want anything like this happening to your birdie. Plus they don’t actually “need” them anyway.
 
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Natti337

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I will be removing this from Mangos cage and changing the ones my parents quakers have to sea-grass. I have gotten a bunch of different perches including the rope perch so i hope that keeps him comfortable enough. Once his cage is all done i will post to see if you or others have any additional suggestions. Thanks again for the advice!

Welcome! Your baby is so very cute!!!

Get rid of that hut-- they are very dangerous and they are also hormonal triggers. Also-- keeping him so close to the kitchen poses risks in terms of burning food, gas emissions etc.

Thank you! That is just his temporary spot while his new cage comes in on Wednesday and for the time being we have been very careful about having him away from the kitchen while cooking. I read up on the huts and I did read some horror stories but my parents Quakers both have one and they love them :(. They sleep in them every night and they've had the for 10 plus years. Is there a different material maybe you recomend or do you think it's just no good at all? I just feel bad about his feet being tired from being in his perches all the time.

The hut is definitely a safety hazard-- if you are bent on having something like that, maybe sea-grass could be safer but even then, they could still get tangled in it potentially.

I think that most birds tend to like huts/tents (whether it is good for them or not---it tends to be their nature to find dark, nest-like places). I know my cockatoo does, but she doesn't get one because it makes her hormonal to have access to things like that (no dark spaces for Noodles).

Now, if your adult quakers aren't giving you any hormonal issues and they are doing okay, then that is good BUT, I wouldn't start a new bird off with one just because it is a gamble in terms of hormones and health. The bottom line (at least in my opinion) is that they are not necessary. Birds of all types do fine without them, so why risk it by introducing something unnecessary that could potentially harm them.

If you want a break from the perches, get some bird-safe rope perches (not cotton preferably). Also, by varying the types of perches in the cage, you prevent your birds feet from rubbing on the same areas all of the time, so that is recommended either way (to prevent bumble foot).
 
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Natti337

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would you be able to show me what you make for your birds? I'm not sure what a sleep chamber is.

I want to change my parents quakers huts because they have those fluffy ones but im not sure what is the best option for them. i feel bad completely removing them because they have had them for so many years.

As always I buck the trend here on sleeping. Yes everything said above is true, threads, those fluffy huts are the worst! Crop impactions ECT.

I make my own using safer materials..check and remake them regularly. All of my birds use a sleeping chamber..
We are all here to share our experience.

I don't give my birds those chew toys with rope fringe, or fabric fringe toys because of the risks of threads. There are so many toys like that and I never hear that discussed.
 

noodles123

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Jul 11, 2018
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Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
They don't technically need a special place to sleep, even if they are inclined to enter them when provided. Cockatoos are "cavity nesters" but mine sleeps just fine in her covered cage---no issues. Sure, there are birds out there who manage with huts/sleeping spaces, but most do better without them and none NEED them...If you provide a covered cage, that is sufficient---may be a challenge for those older birds who have grown used to a certain type of hut though...That is why I suggest that you go without with this new bird.
 
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Natti337

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Yeah I removed it from his cage and he actually seemed happy because he had more room to play. As for my parents older quakers I don't think they will be happy about having them removed so i got them sea-grass huts and hopefully those are much safer. Thanks again for the suggestion.

They don't technically need a special place to sleep, even if they are inclined to enter them when provided. Cockatoos are "cavity nesters" but mine sleeps just fine in her covered cage---no issues. Sure, there are birds out there who manage with huts/sleeping spaces, but most do better without them and none NEED them...If you provide a covered cage, that is sufficient---may be a challenge for those older birds who have grown used to a certain type of hut though...That is why I suggest that you go without with this new bird.
 

noodles123

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Jul 11, 2018
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Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
Yeah I removed it from his cage and he actually seemed happy because he had more room to play. As for my parents older quakers I don't think they will be happy about having them removed so i got them sea-grass huts and hopefully those are much safer. Thanks again for the suggestion.

They don't technically need a special place to sleep, even if they are inclined to enter them when provided. Cockatoos are "cavity nesters" but mine sleeps just fine in her covered cage---no issues. Sure, there are birds out there who manage with huts/sleeping spaces, but most do better without them and none NEED them...If you provide a covered cage, that is sufficient---may be a challenge for those older birds who have grown used to a certain type of hut though...That is why I suggest that you go without with this new bird.

Awesome! The older ones will probably take time to adjust-- they may not like the new huts but it makes sense to take it a bit slower with them, as it is what they have known for many years (especially since they have not had issues thus far). That having been said, the horror stories about those dang cloth huts are too numerous to ignore (in my opinion).
 
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Natti337

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Hi Everyone,

Mango's cage has been updated and sleeping hut has been removed :) (pictures attached). Any other suggestions or recommendations? I know the placement of the cage is not ideal but we don't really have anywhere else to put him. We do have a spare bedroom but i just feel like he would be isolated there. I like the fact that when we are in the living room hes right there by us in the kitchen. We don't cook much and when we do we always put him in his play gym away from the cage.

He has food accessible to him at all times being that he is baby (3 months), at what point would you recommend removing his food and only feeding him twice a day? Also, any tips on how to get him to try different foods? He won't try anything and just loves his pellets.

So far he is sooo sweet and loves head scratches. We have been taking him to grandma's house and using the flight suit, he is not a fan of it much but it honestly went better than I expected and he looks sooooo freaking cute.

Thank you all for the advice!
 

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noodles123

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Looks great! The only thing I would say is that dowel perch should be changed out for something with a natural texture---especially if he is sleeping on it or spending a large portion of his day there. You can get custom-made perches w/ textures/width variation to fit your cage if that perch came with it.
 
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Natti337

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Looks great! The only thing I would say is that dowel perch should be changed out for something with a natural texture---especially if he is sleeping on it or spending a large portion of his day there. You can get custom-made perches w/ textures/width variation to fit your cage if that perch came with it.

Would you change it if it's the perch he least goes on ? From what I've seen he only uses that perch to get on to other things. He doesnt even use it to eat, when he is eating he grips on to his bowls. His favorite perches are the rope ones, he sleeps on the big spirally one in the back do you think thats ok? I made sure to get multiple different perches of different widths so he has a lot of variety.
 

noodles123

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Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
If he isn't spending a lot of time on it and your are sure he isn't sleeping on it, then it's probably fine.
Do you have any pummice perches in there for nail assistance? Not the sandpaper ones, but the "sweet feet" types? That might be something to consider if you don't have any already---can't tell.
 
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Natti337

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