do other birds get along?

Lapis

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So I've had my IRN for about a month now, she's currently bluffing and I'm still training her so I'm not planning on another bird JUST yet, but eventually (most likely a year or so) I would absolutely LOVE to get a Timneh African Grey. Specifically Timneh, not Congo (nothing against Congos though!!)

the pet store where I got Nyla from breeds their own Congos, not sure about Timnehs but I've never seen them around there.. anyway, basically my question is after Nyla has completely settled here with me would it be a good idea to introduce a new bird? Would they get along eventually? My plan is to get a baby Timneh but I'm not opposed to an adult/adolescent if they still get along with IRNs.

and if they do, I would like some links to good breeders/rescues/etc if anyone has any references! I live in Michigan but am willing to travel. Thanks!
 

RavensGryf

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Unfortunately there is no accurate answer to that. Since every bird is an individual, it's impossible to predict whether they'll be friends, enemies, or indifferent to each other.

Raven and Griffin are two completely different species, different sizes, different personalities, yet these two boys are a bonded couple. Yet Robin and Griffin who are closely related species don't get along and must be kept apart. It's so much easier when you don't have to be concerned about keeping them apart, but you just never know how it's going to happen.
 
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SirEdwin89

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Raven is spot on, it's hard to tell how any one bird will react to any others, it's a lot like meeting a random person, sometimes you like them, sometimes ehhh.... I will add that it is *less* likely for an african grey to become friendly with other species. In the wild, Greys run in single species flocks, and run any non african greys that get close off.

Confetti for example, doesn't like any other birds. That said, having other birds around isn't a problem for her either. She may not like them, but she isn't aggressive toward them. They just give confetti her space, and everyone is happy.

And just as an addition, i'm not saying a grey can't/won't like other birds of other species and bond with them, it's entirely possible. Just that the odds are probably a bit lower due to how they are wired. That said, never under-estimate the power of personality.
 

MonicaMc

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Since the question about whether or not two birds will get along has been answered, is it alright for me to address something else???




So I've had my IRN for about a month now, she's currently bluffing and I'm still training her so I'm not planning on another bird JUST yet

Your IRN is not bluffing. She is trying to communicate with you in the nicest way possible. If you continue to ignore her so called "bluffs", she may decide to bite you instead.


Barbara's Force Free Animal Training Talk: Do Animals Bluff?
 
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Lapis

Lapis

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thanks guys! very helpful. Nyla hasnt met any other species (yet) while with me, eventually i wanna bring her around my best friend's sun conures though

Since the question about whether or not two birds will get along has been answered, is it alright for me to address something else???




So I've had my IRN for about a month now, she's currently bluffing and I'm still training her so I'm not planning on another bird JUST yet

Your IRN is not bluffing. She is trying to communicate with you in the nicest way possible. If you continue to ignore her so called "bluffs", she may decide to bite you instead.


Barbara's Force Free Animal Training Talk: Do Animals Bluff?

is bluffing different? she's my first bird since i was like 7 so i don't really have much experience
but i don't ignore her "bluffs"! she's my angel and i hold her and talk sweetly to her every single day ā™„
 

itchyfeet

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Quote from article:

"Force free animals trainers understand it is a very rare animal that is deceptive in its body language. In fact few species have truly been shown to use deception intentionally."

I agree that it might be a rare animal, but it certainly does happen! My inlaws SC2 was in quite the mood with me one week, to the point he was put away because of his aggression (normally I'm one of the more confident family members with me.) He would call me over, acting all sweet 'click his tongue, he sweetie, come 'ere', come here, be a good boy,' - before lashing out quickly as soon as he thought I was close enough. That darn bird knew exactly what he was doing :eek:

I do think ringneck's go through a particularly difficult stage when they are younger. In NZ, alot are rehomed before they turn 3. I'd call it puberty more than bluffing - I don't ignore it - but nor do I give into it. I read the cues my parrots are giving before I ask something of them, but once I ask something of them, I stick to my guns and biting or threatening to bite is not going to get them what they want. But you've got to be able to read your bird - knowing your bird, and then timing is critical when asking them to participate.
In my country it seems so many rehomes are from situations where mutual respect hasn't been applied and the parrot has learned to call the shots over their humans. Lose lose all around.

Edited to add: My three can be out at the same time, but aren't super close. They're pretty good at reading each others body language. We keep them flighted so it's a whole lot easier for them both to get their own space in a hurry. The galah and IRN are caged right next too each other and often have chats in the english language - very cute!
 
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MonicaMc

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is bluffing different? she's my first bird since i was like 7 so i don't really have much experience
but i don't ignore her "bluffs"! she's my angel and i hold her and talk sweetly to her every single day ā™„

I wouldn't call it bluffing. I would call it a form of communication. They could be saying that they're not ready, they don't want to, maybe they don't understand what it is you are trying to ask them and they're just uncomfortable with the situation.


I'd call it puberty more than bluffing - I don't ignore it - but nor do I give into it. I read the cues my parrots are giving before I ask something of them, but once I ask something of them, I stick to my guns and biting or threatening to bite is not going to get them what they want. But you've got to be able to read your bird - knowing your bird, and then timing is critical when asking them to participate.

In my country it seems so many rehomes are from situations where mutual respect hasn't been applied and the parrot has learned to call the shots over their humans. Lose lose all around.

Sounds kind of like dominance or flooding techniques. If positive reinforcement was used instead, the birds would happily oblige rather than attempt to bite or threaten. Also through positive reinforcement, you'd learn to back off or try again later (which could be in 3 seconds or 3 minutes), or find something of higher value for the bird to have them oblige.

With training, you *WANT* the bird to do what you want, not be forced into submission to do it.
 
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Scott

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As others have remarked, Greys tend to be more solitary. In my experience they tolerate other species in captivity provided they are granted their "space."

I have a single TAG who has lived in a room with 3 different cockatoo species for many years. ET has his own cage but is never locked inside, preferring to hang out on the play-top and enter for food. He will occasionally fly to another cage without incident. Rarely, one of the Goffins will fly to his cage for a few minutes.

While there has never been any hostility, ET knows he is outnumbered with as many as 5 toos out at the same time. The dynamic may be different when a Grey is confronted with just one or two other interlopers!
 

Dinosrawr

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Everyone has provided some great insight. One thing I do want to add - is it REALLY that important for a C/TAG to interact with your IRN? The size difference is quite substantial. If anything were to go wrong, chances are your IRN would be the major loser and as a result, you would be too. Missing toes, feet, ripped off beaks... yes, it is worst-cased scenario thinking, but personally I'm of the opinion that if the other bird's beak is as big as the other bird's head, they shouldn't be near each other unless you know your birds 100% - and even then accidents can happen. I think most AG owners can attest to how hard and quickly they can strike, especially considering that they tend to be a bit on the nervy side.
 

Chase

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Dinosrawr brings up some good points.

I have seen an AG be best friends with an Amazon, they are generally not more than a foot apart. The other greys in the room though are not the same, they may hang around each other but seem to enjoy being in their own space.

Just what I've seen at the rescue
 

Anansi

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Everyone has provided some great insight. One thing I do want to add - is it REALLY that important for a C/TAG to interact with your IRN? The size difference is quite substantial. If anything were to go wrong, chances are your IRN would be the major loser and as a result, you would be too. Missing toes, feet, ripped off beaks... yes, it is worst-cased scenario thinking, but personally I'm of the opinion that if the other bird's beak is as big as the other bird's head, they shouldn't be near each other unless you know your birds 100% - and even then accidents can happen. I think most AG owners can attest to how hard and quickly they can strike, especially considering that they tend to be a bit on the nervy side.

Excellent point! I know some have successfully managed this with birds of disparate sizes over the years, but I personally wouldn't chance it. Not right next to each other, anyway. Things can just go horribly wrong so VERY quickly.
 

RavensGryf

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Everyone has provided some great insight. One thing I do want to add - is it REALLY that important for a C/TAG to interact with your IRN? The size difference is quite substantial. If anything were to go wrong, chances are your IRN would be the major loser and as a result, you would be too. Missing toes, feet, ripped off beaks... yes, it is worst-cased scenario thinking, but personally I'm of the opinion that if the other bird's beak is as big as the other bird's head, they shouldn't be near each other unless you know your birds 100% - and even then accidents can happen. I think most AG owners can attest to how hard and quickly they can strike, especially considering that they tend to be a bit on the nervy side.

Excellent point! I know some have successfully managed this with birds of disparate sizes over the years, but I personally wouldn't chance it. Not right next to each other, anyway. Things can just go horribly wrong so VERY quickly.

I agree with it not being of utmost importance that your birds must meet and get along. :)

In the case of bff's Raven and Griffin, it was always fine when they were babies. Raven is more than twice the body weight of Griffin, but they are bonded to each other as much as two males of different species can possibly be. Now that they are 2 1/2 and 3 they are teens with hormones, and I have to keep especially alert.

The reason I am more careful nowdays, is something worth mentioning here... Even though bonded, these are two males of two entirely different species who are reaching sexual maturity. I am always right there when they're out, to make sure any small bickering doesn't escalate to something more. I have in the forefront of my mind now, that while they aren't old enough to reproduce, they aren't behaving like juveniles any longer, and I can see a difference. It might be "cute" to have 2 babies who are friends, but we have to take notice of any possibly changing dynamics as birds get older.
 

BeatriceC

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Mine are all different species and different sizes. They get along, so to speak. They talk to each other from their different cages and play perches, and Charlotte and Leo are okay if they are each on one of my hands, but I keep them as separate as my arms will allow, because even though they're not acting aggressively, I don't want to chance it. Leo's entire body isn't much bigger than Charlotte's beak. I just don't see the need to have them play together. I'm perfectly content with them being chill and relaxed around each other, from safe distances.
 

RavensGryf

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Mine are all different species and different sizes. They get along, so to speak. They talk to each other from their different cages and play perches, and Charlotte and Leo are okay if they are each on one of my hands, but I keep them as separate as my arms will allow, because even though they're not acting aggressively, I don't want to chance it. Leo's entire body isn't much bigger than Charlotte's beak. I just don't see the need to have them play together. I'm perfectly content with them being chill and relaxed around each other, from safe distances.

Right.. I don't see a need to have anyone play together either. My two insisted at first, and I saw it was fine between the two so okay :rolleyes:. Otherwise, keeping parrots separate isn't a bad thing.
 
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Lapis

Lapis

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Female Violet IRN, Nyla / Female TAG, Izumi
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This is all EXTREMELY helpful. Thanks again so much, all of you

my thought process was if I raised the TAG at a young enough age it'd be more willing to get along with Nyla :p (i have way more experience with cats, and that's /usually/ the case with them)

to answer the previous question - no it isn't totally necessary that they ever see each other, it'd just be more convenient for me since my living area isn't totally huge at this time and i would prefer to keep all of my pets indoors. HOWEVER, my mom's boyfriend and i are planning on building an aviary out back in the very near future. judging by most of these comments though, i don't think i'll be taking the risk of getting a TAG just yet!

also thanks for all the comments regarding her "bluffing" lol
i was always told that's what was happening but yeah i see all of your points :p she's being a little moody but all in all she's still very sweet. some days are a little worse than the others but overall she is a sweetheart <3

the other day she fell asleep on my shoulder while we were watching tv together, it's such a nice feeling knowing that your bird trusts you so much!
 

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