Safe water or vapor barrier for bottom of cage?

I need some ideas. I made a rookie mistake when I got my Eclectus four years ago, and I didn't invest in a good quality cage. I went for the biggest I could afford, and unfortunately didn't really pay attention to quality. Now I am stuck with a huge cage that is rusting and corroding on the bottom.

Matisse likes to takes baths in his cage. I tried to get him to stop by bringing him in the shower with me. But he still takes another bath, sometimes right after! I think I might actually have a green duck. Even if I clean it right away, it has seeped under cracks and chips in the paint and I can't get rid of the moisture. I have had to do a deep bleaching because of mildew starting to appear. It's still dark, but I think it's just stains. It's all just a mess. I want to get a stainless steel cage, but it's gonna be another year at least until I will be able to buy one…I am expecting to spend up to $2000.

In the meantime I want to create some sort of barrier against further moisture, and to keep the corrosion/ paint/ rust away from Matisse. I am trying to pay attention to toxic materials. He likes to spend time at the bottom of his cage ( I scatter a small bit of tiny seeds all over the bottom, and it's a huge enrichment activity for him that he really looks forward to every day...I have newspaper laid on the bottom). Even though he isn't a chewer and only goes in his cage to eat and sleep, I want the safest options.

The only suggestion I have until 'Boats turns up is some clear perspex sheet which you could then cover with the cardboard/newspaper. I think you can order them online, to size.

As an aside, have you tried offering him the bath say on the table top? If it isnt in his cage he cannot use it can he?

I think I may be tempted to lower the aspirations of the SS cage and just buy another powder coated cage for less. Work on it being changed more frequently which would be possible if it costs less to start with. Maybe even a really good second hand one that has been properly cleaned. The mold is the sticking point with me. You never know your green guy may change his mind and decide he doesnt need the baths anymore? Nothing as fickle as a parrot?

Thank you plumsmum2005.

I haven't heard of Perspex before so I will definitely look into that. His bathing dish is actually his water bowl. I have to often refill it because he just dunks right into it and splashes nearly all of it out.

I know there are quality powder coated cages out there, but this wasn't a super cheap cage, and was about $500. I'm just over powercoated for large cages. My cockatiel has had hers longer and it still looks great....meanwhile the larger one is bowed and chipped and not great...maybe they work better for smaller cages? I don't know. I don't want to deal again. At least a ss cage I can expect to keep forever (or at lease get warrantied, which is why I want to spring for new).

I have a med sized powder coated that is fine, happy with it, I do not have a little swimmer like you though. You will still get a guarantee. There have been comments about sharp edges on SS cages recently. You could have just been unlucky about the one you have being in poor shape. I am sure that they will have received complaints about them. What is the make btw?

The thing is I am concerned re the mold you say is on the cage, this is potentially bad for your little green guy.

In addition, you biggest problem is where you live, Florida!

You need to apply heat from something like a hair drier to take you efforts of after bath clean-up to a fully dry state!

Even with a stainless steel cage you are likely to have problems, not rust, but that wonderful mold, since you are still chasing moisture!

Anytime you can get your current and new cage into the Bright Sun Shine is a good moment is keeping your cage dry and healthier!

Sailboat thank you so much. I never thought about the hairdryer idea. My only issue is there are chips in the paint at the bottom, like it's almost bubbling, and so the water is actually going under/inside paint and rusting it from the inside.

I don't think there's any active mold activity going on. It hasn't gotten to that point again since I started changing the paper immediately after getting wet, every time. It just never ever got clean looking again. I saturated the bottom and bleached it several times and let it dry outside, but could not remove the coloring. There's no smell and when wiped or scrubbed it shows clear on the rag.

It is still a concern for me though, especially if I am away and can't get to it in time before it seeps again into the bottom. That's why I want to do another good bleaching, put down a barrier, and if need be put something down on top of that that would be safe for him to hang out on and allow me to clean better. I am thinking maybe a shower liner of some sort, and perhaps tile on that, followed by newspaper. I was just hoping for an easier, lighter weight option as I would have to remove the tile to clean water food that gets inbetween.

My attraction to the stainless steel cage, is that they are lighter, better quality metal, and I would be able to clean it directly; my main issue with the power coating is that the paint failed and allowed things to get inside between the crap metal and the paint that was supposed to protect said crap metal. Even on the paint parts it was difficult to clean because of the "orange peel" texture.

I will definitely need to research it more, and look into to the sharp edges that were mentioned above regarding ss caves. I'll be giving myself a year to do my due diligence and pick out a new cage. Until then, lil homie and me will need to deal with this one. Just feel like with a stainless steel cage, I could wipe it dry with a towel, and be done. Maybe use your hairdryer trick for some of the seams/joints where there might be some water hidden.

A cage with a tray bottom would be a better choice too. More chance for the grate to dry and you can put something on the tray that will also block water. Honestly, I'd rather opt for the intermediate cage replacement now, than wait to buy the stainless. I got both of my cages secondhand, and one was previously used for only about 2 weeks. (cat got bird )

Katu said:

A cage with a tray bottom would be a better choice too. More chance for the grate to dry and you can put something on the tray that will also block water. Honestly, I'd rather opt for the intermediate cage replacement now, than wait to buy the stainless. I got both of my cages secondhand, and one was previously used for only about 2 weeks. (cat got bird )

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Thank you! And thank you all for the suggestions. Based on the feedback, it seems like I might do better keeping an eye out on craigslist for a used cage. Fortunately the size doesn't matter too much right now since I work from home, and there is always someone at home with the birds so they stay out all day.

I could have a new tray welded from stainless steel, but that would probably cost as much if not more than a used cage. After reading about stainless steel cages, I might be rethinking that as well. All I know is I am done with powder coated cages for large cages. I don't like the texture, or the way it looks frankly, or the possibility of paint failure like what I went through. That being said I am thrilled with my cockatiels powder coated cage. She's had the cage for about four years now, and it looks just as good as the day we bought it.

RisingSun said:

Katu said:

A cage with a tray bottom would be a better choice too. More chance for the grate to dry and you can put something on the tray that will also block water. Honestly, I'd rather opt for the intermediate cage replacement now, than wait to buy the stainless. I got both of my cages secondhand, and one was previously used for only about 2 weeks. (cat got bird )

Save​

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Thank you! And thank you all for the suggestions. Based on the feedback, it seems like I might do better keeping an eye out on craigslist for a used cage. Fortunately the size doesn't matter too much right now since I work from home, and there is always someone at home with the birds so they stay out all day.

I could have a new tray welded from stainless steel, but that would probably cost as much if not more than a used cage. After reading about stainless steel cages, I might be rethinking that as well. All I know is I am done with powder coated cages for large cages. I don't like the texture, or the way it looks frankly, or the possibility of paint failure like what I went through. That being said I am thrilled with my cockatiels powder coated cage. She's had the cage for about four years now, and it looks just as good as the day we bought it.

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It is worth bearing in mind that anything manufactured tends to go through peaks and troughs in terms of quality. One year it's one manufacturer is the tops and the next it is another. Give the larger powder coated ones a chance to pull themselves up in your estimations? Most times if it arrives and is not good it goes back? You can put your concerns to the supplier and ask for assurances it will be good which should give you more opportunity to send it back if it isnt.

The other thing I would consider is putting a towel in the tray at the bottom and swap it out daily. I love the fact your little green duck likes his baths.

The bar sizing and weight between the metal /powder coated cage and a stainless steel cage will have like weights with the stainless steel being slightly heavier depending on cage design.

- Please avoid any cage design in which the top opens, whether into a play area or other use. They are just plan dangerous to Parrots.

- Target a cage with a full height front panel door! Allows for much easier cleaning and general care of the cage and your Parrot.

My current cage has the full front door, no opening top. I love the design of the cage so I will look for a similar design and slightly smaller. I don't know why I thought steel was lighter than powder coated cages, maybe I was thinking of aluminum.

SailBoat said:

The bar sizing and weight between the metal /powder coated cage and a stainless steel cage will have like weights with the stainless steel being slightly heavier depending on cage design.

- Please avoid any cage design in which the top opens, whether into a play area or other use. They are just plan dangerous to Parrots.

- Target a cage with a full height front panel door! Allows for much easier cleaning and general care of the cage and your Parrot.

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I have one of these, the cage is perfect for Plum AND the top is permanently locked down. If the design and size are right for you seems a little daft passing it by just for some common sense measures. If you can accept that part of the design should NEVER be used what is the harm?

Just ran across this post and have a few suggestion. Cheapest probably to go to Lowes and get a sheet of Lexan or plexiglass to cover the rusted bottom. Next fix.. a sheet metal shop will make you a bottom tray from galvanized sheet metal...probably less than 100 bucks. Id suggest 18-16 gauge metal. It will last a good while for ya but Id still put the lexan in the bottom of the sheet metal tray...being their urine/poop is very acidic and corrosive. ( I lined the bottom of my powder coated tray with thin lexan from Lowes)