My new king parrot scares me

Hello! I am posting this because my king parrot acts a little off.İ bought my Australian king parrot 1 week ago(I don't know it's gender because it's too young), it's a 6-8 month old baby I think(I'm pretty sure it's a baby but I don't know how old it actual is). We selected it from the other parrots because it acted so calm even after we put our hands on the container cages. It was doing great after couple of days but now I started to realise it naps 4-5 hours at day time and before nap time it makes a welrd squeezing sound with it's beak.It also doesn't get active while it's not napping. It's diet is a bunch of black sunflower seeds,some fruits and nuts,vitamins in it's water holder and a cracker. I know that it is scared of us but it acts like it is sick. It turns it's back to us and it just eats -> poops -> sleeps. I wonder if it's because of the feather change. There is almost no information online about this bird so could you please help me?

Here is the pictures of my parrot.
https://imgur.com/gallery/dSLmp6S

Get him to an avian certified vet ASAP---not just an exotics vet....If at all possible. A physical exam alone is not enough to solely rule out health issues.

1. vitamins in the water are always a bad idea because A) there is no way to know how much they are getting and 2. they allow bacteria to grow faster.

2. the wheezing is concerning...beak grinding before sleep is normal, but wheezing is not.

3. The black sunflower seeds should just be a treat--- not a good staple but you also don't want him to starve so you may need to slowly wean him off.

4. Is the cracker a salted cracker? Why is he getting that?

5. Him being scared is TOTALLY normal...you shouldn't even be trying to touch him so early on as you need to build trust and let him adjust. Some of this could be exhaustion and stress, but given his age and the fact that you are unfamiliar with what is normal for him, a vet visit is advised.

6. He is very cute but that cage is very dangerous. Galvanized metal can kill them. That looks like hardware wire and that is likely very high in zinc....Stainless or verified, non-toxic powder-coated iron are the only safe metals for parrots (they aren't like chickens who can tolerate it due to shorter life-spans and weaker beaks). Whenever he puts his mouth on it, he is ingesting particles that can poison him fairly easily...My vet just told me about a client who let their parrot play with brand-new toothbrushes and the metal brackets holding in the bristles caused metal toxicity in the bird (even though none were swallowed). They can get metal poisoning from playing with jewelry, money etc etc, but a huge culprit= cages with galvanized wires and cages made in China where lead and metal components aren't as closely regulated. It is a pretty cage--- but it isn't going to be safe---metals aside, you aren't going to be able to properly clean the porous wood....

I just linked this article for someone else. It's a great article worth your time to read.
Also was your bird fully weaned?
I like the branch, but will nee other perches and toys as well.
I also agree with all that Noodles said above. You've got to feed a healthy diet, I link an article on parrot safe foods.

https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/stress-reduction-for-parrot-companions/

Article on toys
https://blogpamelaclarkonline.com/2018/10/10/my-parrot-wont-play-with-toys/

Parrot safe food
http://www.parrotforums.com/parrot-...afe-fresh-foods-toxic-food-lists-sprouts.html

noodles123 said:

Get him to an avian certified vet ASAP---not just an exotics vet....If at all possible. A physical exam alone is not enough to solely rule out health issues.

1. vitamins in the water are always a bad idea because A) there is no way to know how much they are getting and 2. they allow bacteria to grow faster.

2. the wheezing is concerning...beak grinding before sleep is normal, but wheezing is not.

3. The black sunflower seeds should just be a treat--- not a good staple but you also don't want him to starve so you may need to slowly wean him off.

4. Is the cracker a salted cracker? Why is he getting that?

5. Him being scared is TOTALLY normal...you shouldn't even be trying to touch him so early on as you need to build trust and let him adjust. Some of this could be exhaustion and stress, but given his age and the fact that you are unfamiliar with what is normal for him, a vet visit is advised.

6. He is very cute but that cage is very dangerous. Galvanized metal can kill them. That looks like hardware wire and that is likely very high in zinc....Stainless or verified, non-toxic powder-coated iron are the only safe metals for parrots (they aren't like chickens who can tolerate it due to shorter life-spans and weaker beaks). Whenever he puts his mouth on it, he is ingesting particles that can poison him fairly easily...My vet just told me about a client who let their parrot play with brand-new toothbrushes and the metal brackets holding in the bristles caused metal toxicity in the bird (even though none were swallowed). They can get metal poisoning from playing with jewelry, money etc etc, but a huge culprit= cages with galvanized wires and cages made in China where lead and metal components aren't as closely regulated. It is a pretty cage--- but it isn't going to be safe---metals aside, you aren't going to be able to properly clean the porous wood....

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Thanks for the reply! My bird is not wheezing or anything it just makes a squeeking sound with it's beak before sleep so Its probably beak grinding. Like the other reply said my parrot is probably at the weaning stage. İt can eat on its own but not very well. I live in Turkey and I will visit some pet care shops for new diet. I found out that my bird cage fence is indeed galvanized metal so I am painting the cage fence so the bird can't chew the zinc(it's a temporary fix i spent a lot of money this month so I am going to delay the whole cage fence change). Could you give me some crucial details about parrot care?
Thanks again!

You will have to paint it in a bird safe, 0 VOC paint or one that is designed specifically for bird cages (that could end up being equally bad if not worse). The fumes from wet paint and many paints once dry are still dangerous, as are paint particles. It must be zinc and lead free and safe for birds....verifying this can be a challenge.

"Could you give me some crucial details about parrot care?" <-----What kind of details are you looking for?

I can post my "new to birds" post here if that might help you.

EDIT- I posted a ton of stuff below. I know it is a lot but I don't know how much you know already, so I hope it helps!

Paint fumes can be deadly as well as the paint being toxic to the bird. The paint won't prevent contact with the metal as it can be scratches right through with the beak.

Here is my "new to birds" post that I like to share with first-time bird owners. It is long and you probably know some of it already, but since there is a large learning-curve, I hope it is helpful!

I copied and pasted from another "new bird owner" post. Sorry it's so long!!!

When you have a bird, any sort of heated mechanism (anything that heats or is intended to be heated) and contains PTFE/PFOA/PFCs/Teflon will be out of the question (and most things that heat up or are intended to be heated DO contain these chemicals)--This includes things like pots, pans, cupcake trays, cookie sheets, cake pans etc, but it will also things like include hair-dryers, straighteners, curling irons, curlers, rice-cookers, SLOW COOKERS, popcorn poppers, air fryers, microwave meals (including certain types of microwave popcorn), steamers, irons, ironing board covers, electric skillets, griddles, George Foreman Grills, drip trays, toasters, toaster ovens, poaching pans, electric blankets, humidifiers, heat lamps, SPACE HEATERS, Scotch Guard etc etc...Here 2 links about it: https://www.ewg.org/research/canarie...on-kills-birds
To find out what contains PTFE/PFOA/PFCs/Teflon, you have to call and be a bit insistent about it over the phone (and in some cases, you won't get far--but sometimes it is a matter of how you ask). Almost always, it will take a few days (and numerous holds) for them to get back to you and you must provide the full chemical names, abbreviations and brand-names. Shopping when you have a bird is super annoying because cannot visually ID these chemical coatings, as they can be colored, transparent, or mixed into metal/fabric during the manufacturing process. Teflon and chemically similar products have killed birds on separate floors with the doors shut. Similarly, while DuPont claims that off-gassing only occurs at higher heats, there have been myriad bird deaths (even within academic circles) at temperatures well within the 300 degree F range! There is a reason they used canaries in coal-mines and it is because they die very easily due to even low levels of fumes of any sort. Some specific accounts: https://www.ewg.org/research/canarie...-death-diaries
Here are the abbreviations and full spellings of the chemicals you need to ask about when inquiring about a product (give the name, spelling and abbreviation of each):

Teflon= common brand-name using the chemical types in question
PTFE= Polytetrafluoroethyline
PFOA= Perfluorooctanoic acid (sometimes known as C8)
PFCs= Perfluorinated chemicals

Sleep=essential to hormonal and immune function. Different species have different requirements, but 12 is pretty much the average. This means that someone must be there to cover and uncover the bird at the same time each night and that your home must be conducive to sleep.

Make sure you aren't using any unsafe products around the bird. This is pretty much everything with a scent (and some things without).
No perfume, PAINTS, carpet cleaner, flea shampoo, aerosols, solvents, air fresheners, paints, smoke of any kind, vaping, sunscreen, bugspray, candles of any kind (organic or non), insecticides, certain soaps/shampoos, fire-places, burning or heated oil/fat, self-cleaning ovens, gas and any household cleaners (e.g., bleach, windex, lysol, fabreeze, scrubbing bubbles, kaboom, pine-sol etc)...You will seriously have to re-think your entire home and your cleaning routine will change a ton.
NEVER use the self-cleaning oven function or try to season cast iron around birds.
The list goes on. Birds have VERY sensitive respiratory systems. Essential oils are also fairly unsafe due to their ability to be absorbed into the blood-stream and due to a bird's sensitive air sacs.
In terms of safe cleaning alternatives: White vinegar + water (as long as you don't heat it), grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda (for scrubbing), some (but not all) natural cleaning products sold in pre-mixed formulas, and then avian-safe veterinary disinfectants, such as F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate has to be mixed with water but it is super safe and more effective than vinegar at killing bacteria etc).

Fumes make traveling with a bird complicated, as it is very unsafe to bring your bird with you into a location where teflon or chemical cleaners are being used. My bird does travel with me, but it is important to consider the safety of your final destination, as well as car temperature and any stops along the way (if you plan on bringing your bird inside).
I would recommend getting an air purifier (non-ozone producing/non-ionizing) to help with dust/mold etc (which can harm birds). Please note- a purifier will not protect birds from cigarette smoke, vaping fumes, teflon/ptfe/pfoa etc. It will only help increase the quality of the air to some extent. You cannot use unsafe chemicals around the bird just because you have a purifier.

Generally, you should only pet birds on the head/neck and you should not allow any shadowy spaces in the cage (boxes, bedding, crumbled paper, tents, blankets, low furniture, in clothing etc)...and so are tents/huts/hammocks etc. These things are hormonal triggers and they can cause health and behavior problems and snuggle huts can also entangle birds and cause blockages.

Birds hide illness like crazy, so there is nothing intuitive about their diseases. You have to be ready to study your birds poop and behavior daily, because even the slightest change can be a huge indicator. Blood work must be done frequently (ideally, 1x a year, but some vets will say every 3) and should be done soon after you get a new bird. Birds can carry and spread deadly illnesses without showing any symptoms, so play-dates and exposure to boarding facilities etc come with risks of their own. PBFD, ABV and PDD are all very serious and very contagious diseases that can be spread by things like feather dust in the ventilation system. These diseases are also notorious for producing false negatives in infected but asymptomatic carriers (when tested).
Bottom line: make sure that you have a certified avian vet (CAV) near you. Exotics vets who see birds are not the same thing. If you don't have a CAV near you, your life will be much more anxiety-ridden than if you do (and the difference between a CAV and an exotics vet can mean the difference between life and death for your bird in certain instances). NOTE: I know CAVs are not available everywhere, so do the best you can to find one. I lived in a place that didn't have one in the past, and I had to shop around for exotics vets and I always researched before trusting anything my exotics vet told me. Some of it was good advice and some was terrible. Never trust a vet that says to mix medicine into a bird's water! That is a sign that they are totally clueless. Also, never trust a vet that gives a bird antibiotics without first running some sort of test on the poop etc...

Birds are very sensitive to temperature changes and drafts. Any temperature change of 10 degrees or more puts significant stress on their systems. If you have to take your bird out in the cold, make sure you carefully cover the cage and pre-warm the car. Also, make sure you don't have any air-fresheners in the car or vents blowing directly on the bird. Extreme heat can also be harmful. Over time, birds can adjust to a wide ranger of temperatures, but this adjustment has to take place over a long period of time. Anything too quick is going to shock their systems.

Dowel perches that are smooth/even in texture lead to a disease called bumble-foot. Textured perches prevent this---look into dragonwood, manzanita and pummice perches. There are numerous guides to appropriate sizing online.

Birds move in slow motion and especially and establishing real trust can take many months. Do not push physical contact early on. Do quiet things near the cage, read a book out loud etc. The goal is to form positive associations between low-stress, rewarding situations and yourself/bird. Don't push anything your bird isn't comfortable with while building trust.

A baby bird will generally be friendly to all (much like a baby human), but teen and adult birds experience significant hormonal changes which impact their personality and preferences. Puberty is particularly bad in many cases. Although it passes, an adult bird will never be as nice as a baby and it will come with a whole new set of preferences, desires and rules.
It is very important not to engage in behaviors that will eventually be inappropriate for the bird as an adult, as this sets an unsustainable precedent. You must teach independence, refrain from allowing the bird to graft itself to you all day, do not spend excessive time with your bird due to the fact that they are a new and exciting new pet (because you will be expected to keep it up long-term), pet on head/neck only and do not provide your bird with access to fleece huts, huts in general, tents, boxes, blankets, pillows, bedding etc, ignore screams for attention and attend to the sounds you will be able to tolerate long-term, ignore biting when it happens and do not scold/react unless you know why it happened---you don't want to reinforce behavior by reacting in a way that will strengthen it. There is also information on this forum about "the shunning" method which can work for some birds depending on who is being bitten and your relationship with the bird.

Foods- stick to a low-fat diet with occasional seeds (for most birds) although some varieties do need a few more in their daily diet.
Unless you have an eclectus, a diet of pellets and chop (fruit/veg with more vet than fruit=ideal). If your bird is eating seeds as a major part of his diet, don't just cut him off (as they can be stubborn and starve if they are picky enough). Mine eats a healthy seed mix (no sunflowers or peanuts) and pellets (plus chop). I give her some seeds because she came to me eating them and she is eating less now than she did then...her blood work etc is fine and so is her weight, so I am okay with a few mixed in.
Tobacco residue (in the air or on hands/body)= very bad for them too, so if you smoke, vape, chew etc, MAKE SURE you are completely aired out and that any part of your body that the bird will be touching has been washed if it came in contact with the tobacco etc.
Birds are lactose intolerant, so dairy isn't very good for them (although a teeny-tiny bit of a hard cheese or something can be given like once a month or something lol---like a very rare treat and when I say tiny, I mean tiny).

Unsafe foods- tomato, mushroom, rhubarb, chocolate, coffee of any sort (even decaf--there is an actual component in it other than caffeine), artificial sweeteners, AVOCADO, apple seeds and the meat from fruits cut near the pit, alcohol...Avoid high sugar foods, avoid high-fat foods, Salt should be EXTREMELY limited , do not allow your bird to come into contact with your saliva or eat directly after you (human saliva has the potential to make birds sick in some cases). Some people also say to avoid celery, as it can cause the crop to get blocked (same with other super-stringy foods). OH---No garlic, onions, chives, leeks, shallots, green-onions etc....Now, a teeny bit of cooked garlic in a dish filled with other ingredients isn't going to kill a bird if it sneaks a bite (assuming there is nothing else toxic in there) but it is toxic for them in general.
Peanuts should be avoided as they contain aflatoxins and can cause aspergillosis.
Certain beans are also toxic and should never be fed to birds (even when cooked)--It depends on the type..
Citrus fruit/citric acid should be very limited (as in oranges etc) because too much can cause iron storage syndrome.

Wet food shouldn't be in the cage more than 3 hours before getting dumped and washed with a bird-safe soap like Dawn.

Water dished should be washed at least 1-2 times daily with water and soap.

No corn cob bedding or bedding in the cage---period (line cage with something like paper towels, butcher paper or black and white newspaper)


No huts/tents/access to shadowy spaces (in or out of the cage) or it can make them get crazy and hormonal over time.

Make sure he has safe toys but don't just shove a bunch into the cage without making sure you give him time to adjust to seeing them from a safe distance and model playing with them for a few days nearby (silly, but important for young or timid birds).

MAJOR RED FLAGS---sitting on the bottom of the cage with no apparent purpose, falling/difficulty balancing for no reason (babies excluded), wheezing, tail pumping/bobbing when standing still and breathing, audible sounds when breathing, discharge from eyes or nose, frequent sneezing. If you notice these things, it isn't a "wait and see" health issue, it is a get them in ASAP issue. Bleeding is also another important one as birds don't have much blood. In an emergency, corn starch can be used to temporarily stop bleeding but it isn't a permanent fix in many cases..oh, and straining to poop is another one to look out for. There are 3 parts to poop--- the poop, the urine and the urates. The urates are like a white, stringy liquid and they should always be white. The urine is the liquid that surrounds the poop . The poop should not have chunks of undigested food in it. Super watery poop or NEON green poop can be bad--poop should never ever have a smell. Bubbly poop can indicate yeast over-growth. Stress can diet change can temporarily alter poop, but its important to keep an eye on it daily and change cage liners daily.
https://www.northernparrots.com/what-does-your-birds-poop-tell-you-blog507/

Pay attention to poop as it will be very important for you to check it daily--- different colors/consistancies mean different things. Some of it will change depending on diet but it is important to get an idea of what your birds healthy poop looks like.

Many people use a gram scale to track their bird's weight every few days--you can buy one with a perch attached or make your own, by attaching a t-stand to one. Just remember--- not glue/fumes around the bird if you do this.

Birds are sensitive to drafts and major temperature changes. Make sure your bird isn't near drafty windows or heating/cooling vents. If you have to take him outside and it is cold, cover the cage with a blanket before returning to a temperature like he was used to.

When you cover the cage at night, make sure you cover it with a material that is breathable--- you do not want to smother the bird. They sell special cage-covers that are black-out materials yet breathable, but you can use other things as long as you are sure they aren't too thick. Also, your bird should never be covered during the day aside from travel in cooler weather. Never cover to stop screaming etc...bad news. Make sure that the laundry detergent you use doesn't have a strong smell. I use free-and clear and never any fabric softener or drier sheets, as these chemical scents are bad for the bird (and people honestly).

Make sure your bird's cage is in the main area of activity in the house (excluding the kitchen, as that is hazardous)--spend time socializing your bird. Remember that even a bird with clipped wings can fly given wind/height/space etc, so never take the bird outside without a cage or harness. If you ever do get wings clipped (which not everyone does), make sure you do not get a single-wing clip---you do not want them falling to the ground or losing control if they try to fly---the goal is for them to glide down safely.

Bathing opportunities should be provided once your bird is comfortable with you. If it doesn't scare him, you can spritz him with a spray bottle (not in the face and never as a punishment) but DO make sure the house is warm and draft free and never get a bird wet right before bed. Another option is setting out a shallow basin of water and allowing him to walk around in it. Some people will take their bird into the shower and let them go in and out of the water as they please, but there should never be any contact with soap and water should be luke-warm to cool (not as hot as people would generally prefer to shower and not super cold either).

For cleaning around the house, I use vinegar and water or f10 sc (bird-safe disinfectant). If you get the kind that is yellowish/clear, it doesn't have to be rinsed (there is a green kind with detergent that does have to be rinsed). F10 does have to be diluted before use though--- one tiny bottle makes something like 17 gallons if you mix it at a 1:250 ppm ratio (e.g., 2ml of F10 to every 17 oz h20)...It is a really great product and it kills germs way better than vinegar. It is safe for use in diluted form with your bird in the same room. Once mixed and stored in a spray bottle, it is good for up to 6 months. Unmixed, it lasts for years. I use f10 to clean my birds cage, but I have to scrape off the poop, as f10 doesn't break down grime, it just disinfects.

The first link I have you above about stress in parrots covers a lot of topics that will be helpful for you well worth your time to read. I've re-linked it here https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/stress-reduction-for-parrot-companions/

This link is just some quick basics
5 Tips for New Parrot Owners | Fun Time Birdy Blog

Here is some more information on metals and their safety--

Heavy Metal Poisoning in Birds

another link to a list of household hazards:
http://www.exoticpetvet.com/parrot-precautions.html



I know that is a lot...Don't mean to overwhelm you--there is a lot to know about parrots though.

I just posted a ton of links on the keys to happy healthy parrots at the bottom of this thread. You will find lots of great info!! We are certainly passionate about parrots and providing the best life possible! Lot of reading maybe sit next to your new parrot and read some out loud to him. All if this information will pay off in years of happy behavior problem free parrots!
http://www.parrotforums.com/new-members-welcome/83468-i-brought-home-blue-gold-macaw.html

I am back, I texted the pet store I bought my parrot and they said my parrot was a 3-4 month old male. They also said the diet should contain sunflower seeds, give the parrot some boiled corn and don't give the parrot fruits for now. Are they right or are they trying to trick me?

Furkan said:

I am back, I texted the pet store I bought my parrot and they said my parrot was a 3-4 month old male. They also said the diet should contain sunflower seeds, give the parrot some boiled corn and don't give the parrot fruits for now. Are they right or are they trying to trick me?

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I am not sure they are trying to trick you--- this may be a cultural difference or even just an old-school perception of how to best handle babies......I wonder if they are wanting to substitute those foods instead of formula?
Honestly, that isn't how I would do it, but I am not sure they mean to steer you astray-- it may just be a difference in what they believe/know?

I have met lots of old-school "parrot people" who strongly believe in doing incorrect things (and have been doing them all of their lives). I am wondering if that is the case, but wait and see what other members say before you assume anything. I have never heard of doing this with a parrot..he sounds young, but if he is that young, I am wondering if the implication is that he is not fully weaned...Did you ask them about that?
I don't think they are correct, but I don't think that they are being malicious on purpose.

That is poor information on diet.
If you can find a breeder if these parrots and ask them questions about care that will be great
You can feed a seed mix but I would go light on sunflower seeds, fresh corn on the cob that you would eat is fine as a small part of the diet Ong with lots of other fresh produce , and leafy greens, edible flowers (check what is safe) and some fruits, like plums, cherries. You she be able to Google a out them. Here is one article
https://www.beautyofbirds.com/australiankingparrots.html

Well in my country people just say "put some food and water there and wait for a week and then...done! İt's a tame bird!" İt might be not like that but our country is more primal about pet care than anywhere else. Because they think that if a bird dies it's time of death came, they don't think that its their fault. That's why I'm not trusting anyone here but you guys seem experienced. Do you guys really think this parrot is 3-4 months old or is it more than that?(he can eat by itself but he spills a lot and he eats every 15-30 minutes.i think he is weining.) I'm thinking about giving him canned corn but if that's bad, what can I use to boil the corn?

Don't do canned-- too much salt. If anything, fresh or frozen but know that the nutrients aren't great--- yes, it will provide calories and carbs, but your bird will need more than that long-term. You can boil or microwave frozen/ fresh-- just make sure it doesn't burn/ get hot-spots---- corn heats up like crazy in a microwave and blackens in seconds!

Thanks for all of the advice! I will keep informing you guys about how's the little baby. Thanks again!

What kind of fruits and vegetables do you have easily available in your country? There are many types of fresh produce parrots can eat besides corn (though corn can be offered as part of a balanced diet). What about grains? Parrots can also eat and fully COOKED grains and beans like rice, lentils, oats, barley, chickpeas, various beans etc... Do not add any salt, sauces or seasonings to grains or beans you cook for your bird.

Also, there are many types of seeds in the world. Do you have any available besides just sunflower? What about millet, flax, safflower, hemp, chia, anise etc...? Nuts and seeds are an important part of a parrots diet, they just shouldn’t be ALL a parrot eats and they should get a variety of different kinds so they aren’t eating too much of any one kind. In fact, virtually all parrots eat some kinds of nuts and seeds in nature. They have just become demonized because some people feed their bird nothing but nuts and seeds and that is not a healthy or balanced diet. In general, the more varied a birds diet, the better. They are opportunistic omnivores and don’t just eat one or two things in nature, nor should they do so in our homes.

Congratulations on the new baby! I'm not sure I am totally following what has been determined about the cage - is it confirmed safe? if not, I think it is time sensitive and critical and the most important thing you can do to make sure your bird is safe right now. I have heard that cages with enough heavy metals really aren't going to do well even with a powder coat. And it is correct that the proper paint must be used and that it must have no fumes remaining before bringing the bird back in. This means he will need someone else to stay/sleep for a while if that's the case. Windy City Parrot has a great blog, and one of the owners used to be a painter. You may want to look up his articles on this topic and even write or call (they have a pet store in the US) them.

Just in general, if you smell fumes (paint or otherwise), it could be very dangerous for your bird even if you barely notice it yourself.