New 7 month old conure-help with biting

[Tonilou]

Hi everyone,

We’ve recently bought a yellow sided conure, only a few days ago. He’s 7 months old, quite tame but he has an issue with hands and biting. He’s not biting enough to break the skin but it’s definitely painful and leaves a mark. We’re just wanting some advice on how to stop him biting, what to do when he does bite. I’ve read so many articles, watched loads of videos but they’re so many conflicting stories I don’t what to do for the best.

The previous owner said he was tame, nipped occasionally (which I know is normal) and would handle him often. From arriving to view him, I got the feeling this wasn’t the case, as he was in a room full of other different birds and the place itself wasn’t that great.

If he’s in his cage, he’ll come down to the nearest perch and put his head down, right up to the bars for you to stroke him. He’ll let you put your hand in his cage to hand feed him. I don’t put my hand in to get him out, I open his cage and let him come out when he’s ready, which is normally within seconds. He’ll fly to the chair, then to us on the sofa. He seems happy to move between me and my husband. Climbing all over us, letting us stroke and hand feed him but he’ll nip and bite really hard. He doesn’t seem to be doing it out of fear. Surely if he wasn’t happy he wouldn’t come near us?

We know it’ll take lots of time and patience, which we have plenty of. We just want to make sure we go about it the right way.

 

[T00tsyd]

Hello and welcome. You are right there are lots of opinions on biting. I like to look at it this way. If your little one was in the wild and he misbehaved the flock would ostracise him and chase him off. That makes sense to me and they are flock birds so the punishment of being separated really makes them think and you represent his flock.

So, if the bite gets too strong I like to squeal to show pain and put him away on a chair or somewhere neutral - not his cage - and totally ignore him. That means don't even look. Carry on as if nothing has happened leaving him out of the proceedings completely in order for him to process the information that biting too hard means he leaves the party. Don't go to him. Let him come to you and he will hopefully be a bit more thoughtful. Repeat as necessary - and it could be many times.

Having said that all birds check things out with their beaks. They check for stability before standing on something. They test for taste, texture just like a young child would so you have to be careful to differentiate between a real bite and just testing. What he needs to learn is what level of pressure is acceptable. I failed initially in this area with Syd and spent a couple of weeks dressed in hat, scarf, long sleeves, gloves because Syd was drawing blood.
I tried several ways to stop him and until I realised how the flock would deal with it I wasn't getting anywhere, and this showed quick results and worked for us.

The other pointer is to really learn his body language. If you watch carefully he will show that he is not comfortable with something which really means leave me alone. Backing off, fluffed feathers, raised wings are a few signs. Equally going flat feathered and very alert is a warning. With Syd the eyes even change from soft to hard stare.

One other thing that was a warning sign was that you mentioning stroking. It may just be your choice of word but be careful never to pet your bird anywhere but on his head usually with a scratching motion often called 'scritching' on here. He will love it but watch for the moment when he has had enough and stop before he nips because you hadn't noticed his messages. In a flock the only bird allowed to touch him anywhere else on his body, is his mate. You don't want to go there for obvious reasons.

Hands? Don't use them except for treats. Use a piece of perch or something instead of grabbing him. Find what he likes as a treat/reward (Syd will do anything for a sunflower seed not too many because they are like fast food for humans) teach him to 'step up'. This is pretty much the first lesson. Your aim is that step up should be automatic no matter what. It takes time but will engage his brain and make life easier for everyone. Having said all this you have only had him a very short time and it can take months of patient work to make headway. Watch for his cues and go at his pace with love and kindness and enough patience to sink a criuse liner. It will pay off in the end.

 

[Tonilou]

Thank you so much, everything you’ve said is really helpful.

When I said stroking I meant just his head, I’ll have to get used to the new lingo lol.

I will be sure to get sunflower seeds for training. How would you suggest picking him up to put him down if he’s bitten one of us? As I said hands seem to be an issue for him right now. Also getting him to go back in his cage if he doesn’t want to. If we start trying “step up” “step down” I assume this part will get easier.

Once again, thank you. I really appreciate it

 

[T00tsyd]

Thank you so much, everything you’ve said is really helpful.

When I said stroking I meant just his head, I’ll have to get used to the new lingo lol.

I will be sure to get sunflower seeds for training. How would you suggest picking him up to put him down if he’s bitten one of us? As I said hands seem to be an issue for him right now. Also getting him to go back in his cage if he doesn’t want to. If we start trying “step up” “step down” I assume this part will get easier.

Once again, thank you. I really appreciate it

That's the tough bit I guess. In the bite situation I would pick him up as gently as possible to move him away in whatever way is possible. Do not do things some recommend such as towelling. You are needing to build trust and that will kill it stone dead. As an afterthought I taught Syd the word 'No' very early on each time he did something unacceptable. 3 years later he will stop whatever at the word. It's worth starting as you intend to continue. Sunflower seed might not be his favourite, you might have to experiment.