Best tool for cutting acrylic sheet?

[Kiwibird]

I am working on a bit of a "top secret project" that requires me to cut acrylic sheet (does not need to be particularly thick) 3 straight sides and one side at a slight curve. Not a very big pice either, I think around 18X10. Figured Someone on here would know what the best way of going about that would be? Any advice and tips would be awesome! I've never had to cut acrylic before and would like for this to not look like a mess when I finish

 

[henpecked]

Very fine teeth on whst ever you use. Using water is even better. I mask off the cut with masking tape and mark the tape , also helps keep the edges from chipping. The thing to avoid is getting it hot while making the cut. It will melt back together and makes for a ugly edge. Maybe a tile saw with water would work well. A hacksaw or coping saw could also work if your cut is not too long.

 

[JerseyWendy]

I've worked with plexi, and found table saws to work GREAT. Just make sure and start off with the blade barely touching the plexi. With each consecutive cut raise the blade a little bit. Go slow, make sure not to burn or chip it.

I'm just gonna venture a guess here that this top secret project has something to do with your signatures last line. :54:

 

[SailBoat]

So, you had to choose one of the most pain in the rear items to cut!

In all cases, this is not an in the home, basement or attached garage type of project!

The best method of cutting acrylic sheet is with a 'hot' (red hot) cutting wire. Most all DIY'ers do not have such a tool, since it can be expensive and rarely used. So now, it depends on what you have in the way of tools?

First item: Painter's Tape! Get it wide and do not use it sparingly! Leave any paper coating, which commonly is in place when you purchase the sheet in place. DO NOT REMOVE IT UNTIL YOU ARE FINISHED INSTALLING THE ACRYLIC SHEET. Any place there is no paper covering, cover those areas with painter's tape!

Second item: The Cutting Tool; Please, Only Use a New Blade! Also, buy a back-up blade, running back to get another is a pain! This is not the place to cut corners. Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

Let's base this with a common hand held Jigsaw. And lets, let this term cover anything that moves the 'fine tooth' cutting blade up and down. Purchase the maximum number of teeth per inch, blade you can find at the Big Box/Hardware store. Always, let the blade do the cutting, never push it! NOTE: Cover that part of the Jigsaw face that will be riding on the Acrylic Sheet with two layers of painter's tape. A smooth cover is important - hence the reason for getting the tape wide, so that a single piece covers. Most guys will grab for their Cut-Off-Saw, but it will be difficult to control and more than likely crack the acrylic sheet if not very careful. There are other tools, and if you have them, you know their advantages, proceed with them (far upper-end: a cabinet series, table saw with special high tooth count, thin saw blade).

Third item: Sandpaper 150, 300 and 600 grit and a sanding block. A Buffer - if you have a drill, you only need to add a buffing wheel to it (think buffing out a car's hood, but does not have to be that wide). NOTE: Never use a buffing wheel that has been used to buff acrylic on you car!

Fourth items: Pencil and straight edge! Note: Slight curves can be a pain to create, so target something that you can use to create the curve you need: like at five gallon bucket, its cover or like item that has a curve near what you want, larger pots, round planters, etc...

Layout your design and if you are making several pieces, try setting pieces side-by-side to reduce the number of cuttings. Remember that you will loose the blade thickness with each cut, so add that thickness to your measurements!

Do not push/rush the cutting - the faster you push the greater the likelihood of causing a crack! Once you have all the pieces cut, use the sandpaper starting with course and moving to fine (with a sanding block) to flatten and smooth the edges. The drill with the buffer is now used to buff the edges to a clear finish. This can also be done with a heat source, but that does require some expertise, get it wrong and you burn your acrylic sheet.

During Cutting, Sanding and Buffing, work at keeping the acrylic sheet still. If you have clamps use them, but use them properly with something like wood strips to keep from marring the acrylic sheet. Do not let the acrylic sheet hop or bound around - it will crack it!

NOTE: Buffing creates heat and that is what causes the acrylic edges to 'melt' smooth (clear). Use a scrap piece to practice with! High-speed, light contact! NOTE: IF the edge can be seen, it is worth this extra step to get is clear and therefore get a professional like finish!

Remember - Slow Down!

P.S. Drilling Holes, always use a wood board under the acrylic sheet and like cutting, slow down using light pressure to cut the hole. Old, used drill bits will cause heat. So, you may want to buy new set. FYI: Buying a single drill bit is costly. Look for a set you can use for other projects that is in your price range. Any drill bit set, which stated for use with metal will work fine.

 

[JerseyWendy]

Sailboat: I LOVE reading your well thought out, well written, and 100% accurate responses....yeah, you and I both know a 'however' is about to happen. :54:

Working with plexi REALLY isn't that hard! Here's a super quick project I did last year, http://www.parrotforums.com/do-yourself/52283-diy-oriole-feeder.html

And I will run upstairs to get some more pics up to show you (all) the refugium I built (with plexi) for my saltwater fish tank.

IMHO and experience, the thicker the plexi, the easier it is to work with. Thinner plexi is more prone to crack and/or burn.

Yes, sharp tools are VERY important. As is patience. (More pics to follow)

 

[JerseyWendy]

This here was my first refugium (for a 75 gallon tank), quite easy, and you will see the super jagged edge on one of the cuts. (Practice makes perfect)



Then I built a refugium for my 180 gallon tank (40 gallon), and worked with different plexi, including having to drill a 'few' holes:

 

[SailBoat]

Yup, and when one has no idea what the DIY'er will be using (thickness of +/- what?), sharp cutting tools is the only safe way to advise. In addition, smoke acrylic and you have serious issues for everyone, hence not in the home, basement or attached garage.

When on professional forums, there is little reason to make those points. With a DIY, where basic tools and knowledge are much more likely, well enough said.

Nice projects! Really, like the cuts and drills of the later projects. As you stated practice, practice, etc...

 

[Kiwibird]

Thank you everyone for your responses! This will be a cover for a small enclosure (and yes, it does have to do with that last part Wendy). The only experience I've ever had cutting acrylic was the cover that came with Mr. Newts current aquarium and I needed better ventilation. I used a round cutting blade on a dremel-type tool which was clearly not a good choice for the task. It looks like a drunk 5 year old got loose with a saw.

If it'll be easier, I will just get the thicker acrylic. I assumed the thicker it was the harder it would be to work with, but if that's not the case I see no reason not to use a thicker sheet. It will be regular, clear acrylic from home depot, nothing special. I probably will be using a jigsaw with an acrylic blade (they sell them on amazon). For a guide for the curve, would a piece of cardboard cut to the size work? And yes, this time I will be sure to go VERY slow and be a lot more careful to try to make it come out nice looking

 

[bill_e]

Most hardware stores sell acrylic/plexiglass for window replacement and have the jig to easily cut it. Either buy if from them and have them cut it or bring your material to them.

 

[Flboy]

Home depo charges a buck a cut. When I cut, using a circular saw, I mount the blade backwards.

 

[Kiwibird]

The issue with someone else cutting it (which I did consider and would probably prefer) is the fact it has one side that is curved. No hardware store I know of will cut a curved side for you. Not even sure a glass shop would, though I have debated calling around.

 

[flyingron]

Any woodworking tool that can cut wood will likely cut acrylic fine. Use a fine tooth blade and go slow. I typically use my table saw (just with the normal combination blade) if I'm making straight cuts. Otherwise I use the bandsaw.