I lost all trust in my cockatoo...

[daryl124]

My mother got Birdie an Umbrella Cockatoo when I was 16 (35 now) and I helped her raise him while I was still home. In my early 20's my mom was no longer in position to take care of the bird any longer so he came to live with me. I always had complete trust in him never to bite hard. Now to the problem (I don't want to make this first post too long.) When I go to let him out of his cage to move him to his stand he comes to me by climbing on my fingers (like we done forever) he bites very hard (enough to draw blood and leave scars) on my wrist. What on earth is going on with him?

 

[noodles123]

Welcome! I have a U2 about the same age as yours...a bit younger, but roughly...I think mine is 14...but she may be 13 lol!

1. How long have you had him at your house?
2. Have you had any major changes-- new people coming or going, new hair, new furniture, vacations, new schedules etc?
3. Is he stepping up willingly?
4. Do you have any shadowy spaces (boxes, tents, huts etc that he accesses in or around the cage)?
5.How much sleep does he get nightly?
6. When was the last time he went to an avian vet?
7.What does he eat?
8. Is anyone else around when he bites?
9. How long has the biting been happening?
10. What do you do immediately after he bites (including what you say, proximity, body language, etc etc)?
11.Are you nervous when you pick him up?
12. When you or other people were or are petting him, did/do you pet him anywhere other than the head and neck?
13. How close was he with your mom, and how long has it been since he has seen her?
14. How long was he with her without you around?

I know that is a lot of questions but I promise each one really matters in terms of getting to the bottom of this.

 

[daryl124]

I will answer each question going down.
We been in this house for 8 years and he been with me for a total of almost his whole life so far.
No
Yes
No
he gets plenty of quiet sleep
long time. money's tight but what i can say there's nothing wrong with him.
he likes this food i get from walmart with seeds and kibble pieces plus freeze dried strawberries. he never cared for fresh fruit.
it's just been me and him
the last two times i tried to bring him out
i shake him off then pick him back up and put him back in the cage for time out
i'm not nervous around him

 

[daryl124]

my mom has been dead for years now so this biting has nothing to do with her

 

[noodles123]

So, when he bites, I would not shake him off. I know that sometimes people say that works, but this is likely deeper than that, so I wouldn't do it with a U2.

1.When you say kibble, do you mean pellets? If so, what brand?
2. How often is he out everyday?
3.What was your answer about petting in spaces other than the head and neck?
4. How many hours of sleep and when is his bed-time/wake-up?

5.Do you have an avian certified vet in your area with whom you have established care previously (even though money is tight)...Like, if there were an emergency, is there an avian vet who would take him?

6. You said "last 2 times when I try to bring him out"---have you tried allowing him to exit on his own and then seeing if he would be more willing to step up from his cage-top? I am wondering if he doesn't want to come out for some reason...Especially because when he does bite, you put him down it seems. It also makes me wonder if he could be in some sort of pain.

7. Is his poop and everything normal?
8.How's his behavior other than this?

9. 99% of the food at Walmart is really not the best. Do you know the brand and name of the mix?
10. How many seeds does he eat when compared to pellets?
11. Has he ever had a blood panel (CBC) run?
12. How is his feather quality? Any plucking or overpreening?
13. Is he moulting, by chance?
14. Have you looked at the bottoms of his feet? Any redness, sores or blistering?
15. Are you perches natural or dowel?
16. Do you track his weight at home using a gram scale?

You can copy and past my questions and answer out to the side in another color or something if that would be easier...

 

[daryl124]

the food is 3-D pet products premium parrot food
i work but he would be out for 3 to 5 hours a day and on weekends even longer
petting is under and over wings. he loves the wing petting. last time he showed no signs of pain
bedtime is around 8 pm and wake up is around 6am. give or take a few hours for each time

 

[noodles123]

So, U2s need a solid 12 hours. You cannot take any away from 10...12 is really their minimum and 10 maybe once in a while, but under 10 and you are not going to keep him healthy (some need 14). They need that sleep to regulate hormones and immune function. It is absolutely essential for their health and mood long-term.

In terms of the petting-- stop that now. I know they love it, but it's pure sex to them and if you lead a cockatoo on and don't "put out" you can end up with a very sexually frustrated, biting bird. You are revving up hormones which alter behavior whenever you touch him that way. Head and neck only-- if you touch under the wing for like 1 second, that is fine, but no matter how much he loves it, you cannot touch him that way. Never stroke the wings...never stroke under them, never touch the tail..HEAD AND NECK ONLY!

If you want to get this in check, I would suggest head and neck petting only, 12 hours of sleep on a set schedule (cockatoos need more than any other species) and an improved diet, as well as a visit to the vet when you can afford it.

 

[daryl124]

what more i can add is that he is acting normal while in his cage that shows me no sign that he is in any pain. feathers are good, no moulting, feet are good and perch is one that files his claws while he stands on it. he is on it now. poop is normal

 

[daryl124]

i will check back later, got some errands to take care of

 

[noodles123]

Read my response above-- stop touching him sexually and increase his sleep (think of him like a toddler with a set betime and wake up schedule). 12 hours is what a U2 needs (although some need 13 or 14). They need more sleep than any other parrot variety.

Also, aside from petting on the head and neck only, make sure he is not eating too many seeds-- but never change diet cold-turkey, as they will starve in some cases, rather than switch. You need to wean him off of an all-seed diet if that is what he is on. wal-mart food is generally pretty bad...So look into shopping on Amazon if you can, or a parrot store, or even Pet-Smart (although they have very limited supplies of decent food).

Also, avoid sunflower seeds and peanuts. Sunflower seeds can be given as treats, but peanuts contain aflatoxins and they also can harbor fungal spores, so they should not be given at all.

I hormonal male bird can be cage territorial and will often bite the object of their human affection if they are being stimulated long-term.
Barring any medical conditions, the key to regulating hormones will be :

1. 12 hours sleep on a set schedule in a dark space...quality sleep...I know you wouldn't think that this would play a huge role in hormones and behavior, but it absolutely does long term (and it also impacts general health).

2. NO petting anywhere other than the head or neck unless it is for literally 1 second, but not at all for now..

3. No access to even remotely shadowy or dark spaces (boxes, blankets, drawers, low shelves etc)

4. A solid diet (pellets and some seeds-- no peanuts, sunflower seeds as treats), vegetable with small quantities of fruit (too much sugar can lead to behavioral issues). Again, any diet changes must be gradual to prevent starvation in stubborn birds, which is another reason to be weighing him weekly.

5. Anytime there is a sudden behavior change, it is advised that you take your bird to a certified avian vet. That having been said, I know you said money is tight.. I cannot promise you that there is not something wrong with your bird, but if a vet is not an option, start by regulating those presumably raging hormones... No cockatoo should be pet under or along the wings and all should get 12 hours of sleep each night.

 

[Scott]

Welcome to you and Birdie! You'll not receive better advice than what "noodles123" offered. If money is tight, at least begin with an improved diet of quality pellet and fresh veggies/fruits. Altering cuddling techniques and increased sleep are no-cost efforts.

All of that said, altering cockatoo diets is not easy! Please check this thread for tips: http://www.parrotforums.com/parrot-...7-converting-parrots-healthier-diet-tips.html

Parrots are flock eaters and you are a member of Birdie's flock! Prepare two bowls of "chop," (fresh veggies/fruit) one for Birdie, the other for you. Begin to eat from yours, bob your head, make "mmmmm" sounds of delight. Be persistent, I've had birds dis foods for decades before trying and enjoying.

Pellets are more costly than seed mixes and there are many choices. Virtually every pellet is better than all-seed diet. May take trial and error and there are methods to transition, might find samples if you have local specialty stores. Please let us know if you choose this route, we can share advice!