The majority of the characteristics that follow apply to all large birds, but African Greys are smarter and therefore more easily upset by changes etc (as a rule)--they also aren't always huge on being handled.
Descriptors:
Expensive (vet, toys, cage, food, supplements, fresh produce, accessories, cage covers, travel cage, boarding fees, travel expenses, vacuums, humidifiers, splat-mats, filters, air purifiers that DO NOT ionize or produce ozone...the list goes on..think thousands and thousands over a lifetime...as in $50,000 + if they live as long as they should), messy- like...BEYOND belief...you could easily lose your security deposit, shrill noises at times, prone to neuroticism and feather plucking, not particularly cuddly but attention seeking nonetheless, the smartest of parrots, may or may not talk, often bond to one person, a new piece of furniture or a picture on the wall can set them into a spiral
A baby (human) being born can derail them if they are getting less attention---this can lead to jealousy,aggression and self-mutilation, as can the introduction of a spouse of girl/boyfriend. Their medical costs are huge if/when needed (and they hide illness until they are nearly dead, so you have to watch and research like crazy and spend even more on testing). If you have other pets, this could be an issue as well. Birds are a big risk in an apartment, so if you get noise complaints and an eviction warning, what happens then?
You will have to do a lot of bending to clean etc, so should mobility become an issue, you will struggle to care for your bird.
If, when you are older, you end up in a nursing home, that is another issue, as your bird will not be able to come with you.
You will likely need to put the bird in your will...they can live a VERY long time- 60 is average, but there are reports of 80+.
They are sensitive and can self-destruct if rehomed. Some never get over it...some have literally starved over the heart-break.
They need a specific amount of uninterrupted sleep. In your small apartment, you will either need a separate bird room, or a commitment to take phone-calls outside and watch TV with headphones. Sleep impacts mood and overall immune system function. Lack of sleep leads to feather plucking and increases the likelihood of aggression and self-mutilation. Forget sleeping in as well.
What happens if you get one and it hates everyone else? What if it picks someone else and hates you? (This happens often)
Who will care for it when you are away- what if it bites at them?
If you bring it along, what happens if they hate their travel cage? What if the hotel doesn't allow birds? What if you need to fly--that is a whole different ball of wax. If you drive, you can't leave a parrot in the car, so on a solo car-trip, you are either driving straight through, or bringing your bird to the bathroom.
I will post a separate list of things I just wrote down for another newowner...you will have to totally change the way you cook, clean and do your hair....Anything with a smell can kill them and plenty of things that are odorless are equally harmful to birds.
Also, should you ever move out of your apartment, your bird will have grown used to seeing and hearing you at all times. This will translate to problematic behavior in a larger house, as their attention will have been significantly reduced....The bird you see at the store is in a getting with A TON of stimulation. That bird would be 100% different in a quiet/home environment. Also, you don't know how it behaves with others after the novelty has worn off and you don't know what it took to get it there. Furthermore, YOU WILL BE BITTEN...a lot....as will your family....and your bird's mood may change on a dime. I love my bird, but I am telling you this because getting one is a bigger deal than having a kid or getting married. Human children are MUCH easier because fewer things kill them and most people do not fear them...they also can't fly and they eventually grow up. The bird will remain suspended in toddler-hood forever, with the spacial reasoning of a 4 year old.
Here is what I posted to another 1st time bird owner---
"Make sure you read all about the dangers of Teflon/PTFOA, PTFE--- can kill in as little as 5 minutes when heated and hides in LOTS of things besides no-stick pans.....popcorn makers, rice-cookers, blow-dryers, space-heaters, bake-in-a-bag meals, drip-trays, curling irons, humidifiers, self-cleaning ovens during self-cleaning cycle, irons, ironing boards, coffee makers etc.
There are accounts of birds fatally inhaling PTFE fumes from a different floor of the house.
Also, make sure you aren't using scented products (air-freshener, candles, lysol, windex, bleach, defusers, smoke, bbq grills right by the house etc).
When cleaning, use only avian approved cleaners or something like vinegar +water, or grapeseed extract. I use a veterinary product called F10 SC and I love it (as it kills more than vinegar and is relatively safe +avian approved)----fumes aren't an issue when diluted to the proper ratio. I do 2ml per 17oz of water in a chemically resistant spray bottle (labeled of course). You can get a 1 ml syringe at the pharmacy for free if you ask for one.
Avoid toxins like avocado, tomato, rhubarb, excess salt or sugar, alcohol, artificial sweetener, chocolate, caffeine etc. Birds are lactose-intolerant. They also should not consume a lot of fatty foods (including nuts). If you have an insect problem, ant killers and insecticides can also kill your bird. A bird may even be poisoned by eating a bug that has consumed chemicals. Fruit pits and apple-seeds are dangerous for birds due to cyanide content, but when the pit/seeds are not present, they are fine. Avoid excessively acidic foods and citrus fruits---too much citrus can cause iron poisoning because it disrupts their ability to eliminate it (Iron Storage Disease---
https://www.petmd.com/bird/condition...torage_Disease ). Avoid fortified cereals etc (not just because of the sugar, but due to added vitamins). Also, natural applesauce (unsweetened) still contains citric acid, so stuff like that should be given in moderation.
If you ever have to give a bird meds and can't squirt it in, consider making a small batch of PLAIN oatmeal, sweetened with fruit. Test it on the bird ahead of time to make sure it is a hit. Then, if you need to give medicine, take a small amount of oatmeal and mix it in after the oatmeal has cooled (think baby bottle temp). If the quantity is small enough, this will allow you to ensure that they have eaten it all.
Wet foods should not be left in the cage for very long, as they are bacterial hazards...Within 2 hours, most should be moved, unless you are dealing with something like apple slices (harder fruits have a bit more wiggle room-- especially raw ones).
If heating foods or giving wet foods, beware that some birds have a hormonal response to these. Mine doesn't, but I have heard that in an already hormonal bird, these can make things worse.
When you are able to handle your bird, make sure you are not petting it in a way that is sexually stimulating. This can cause egg-laying, aggression etc. In cockatoos, anything other than the head is generally considered unsafe.
Peanuts can be dangerous because of the salt and fat content, but also because the shells contain a fungus that can infect the bird.
Do not allow the bird to chew on metal objects---zinc, copper and lead are very bad. Stainless steel is really the only safe metal.
Limit seeds-- especially sunflower seeds.
Make sure you find out how much sleep your bird needs and provide x hours of uninterrupted sleep in a quiet room. You may cover the cage, but depending on your bird, you should research cage covering and night-frights first. Don't cover with a heavy fabric (towels etc are not very breathable)
Place the cage in a spot away from drafts where at least one side of the cage is against a wall. A cage that is open on all sides makes birds feel too vulnerable to attack from all sides (they are prey animals)
If your bird is ever on the cage-floor without a purpose (playing etc) then this is the sign of a VERY ill bird....like EMERGENCY...
Birds hide illness and so at that point, it is a very bad situation. Keep an eye on your birds droppings (Google will help), look out for nasal secretions, the vent (butt-hole hahaha) should be free from debris. Breathing should be inaudible. Look out for tail bobbing when a bird is standing still/perched, as this is a sign of difficulty breathing in many cases. Any cracking, squeaking or wheezing is BAD when the bird breathes. Eyes should not be red, nor should they produce discharge or swelling. Take your bird to the vet if you notice any of these things or if your bird's behavior or eating/drinking suddenly changes. Look for a certified avian vet and get your bird checked ASAP because this will ensure that you are starting with a clean bill of health. Do not share food or toys among birds if at all possible.
Birds can be carriers of deadly illness without actually ever getting sick. For instance, the precursor to deadly PDD (also known as Macaw wasting disease) is a virus called ABV. This virus infects about 45% of birds, but most never show symptoms (even though they can still spread it--in vulnerable birds, it becomes PDD, which is terminal)---after exposure, it may take up to 10 years to show symptoms (if ever). Beak and Feather disease is another one that can spread easily and is deadly as well. SOOOO that is why you should avoid exposure to other birds in boarding facilities etc, unless you have no choice. Although there is testing available for these, carriers can erroneously test negative unless they are actively shedding the virus at the time of testing."
