She bites a lot!

[birbmomtx]

Hello there. So I did a lot of research before getting a Sun Conure and despite it I feel lost a lot. I got my girl last year in November (she was 4 mos) and she is just wonderful. However, 2 months in we noticed she would chew some off her yellow feathers and just leave the white fluff on her chest. I took her to the vet and they did not find a medical reason (ie sickness) for it. They said she might be stressed.

Here are facts about her living conditions: We have an A/C controlled sun room with 5 windows. her cage is set up there. She has perches and some toys that get changed regularly. Her main diet is chop and pellets, in the evening she gets some seed. We work 8am-5pm and the minute we get home she can be wherever she wants- her cage door is left open but 97% she wants to be ON us. She takes all the baths she wants. She used to be outside with us ALL THE TIME but that ended in June when she started flying. Now she only goes outside in her cage every couple of days. Her outside time will increase but it has been raining a lot and incredibly hot. Our goal is every other day and once my husband builds the outside aviary then daily, weather permitting.

In March, we got another Sun conure, a girl as well because we thought it made sense since Sun Conures are always in a flock. Our second girl, is LOUD, does not like scritches but will step up and come to us on her terms- we respect her boundaries. When she does want to be loved on I am assuming I am her person cause she comes to me and tolerates a few scritches (YAY). They got on pretty soon after quarantining her. We thought that by getting our older girl a friend, it might help stop the chewing of feathers (if it was due to being a lonely bird)-it seemed to help but she has done it twice since we got her. Again, she chews a few yellow feathers on her chest but leaves the fluff. It is not a lot but still noticeable. In April, our older girl started biting us a lot. it is more like she is trying to feed on our pimples, moles and any raised imperfection on our skin, lol. However, she has also started to get really mad when we want her off of us and she bites us- and it HURTS. I don't know if we have spoiled her or if this is normal for a bird her age. She is just sassy, demanding and BOSSY. She bites us when we want her off and if we give her our hand so she can step up- basically for anything and everything. Lately, I have left her in the sun room for longer periods of time without giving her our attention. Her sister is in there and she is out of the cage free. I don't know if that is even helpful. I do that so that maybe she learns to be more independent like her sister and maybe will need our attention less and focuses on her little sister, toys and food more.

So finally, my question-IS THIS NORMAL (her biting, tantrums)??? Is this like the terrible twos for a human child?
What might I be doing wrong and what will help?
What do you think might be causing her to chew the yellow feathers?
Feel free to ask questions if you need more clarity on anything.
But please HELP!

thank you!

 

[DonnaBudgie]

Regarding the biting when you want her off you- I had that problem with Casper, a Goffins Cockatoo I had many years ago, but worse because Casper would bite if I stopped giving her a full body massage on me- something she loved and craved! And she would scream for attention. Loud. Sun Conures are well known for having some of the loudest parrot screams known. Did you know this before you got any? Parrots also tend to bite. Did you realize this before you got any? Baby parrots seldom bite hard and they are so freakin' CUTE, but, like cute human children, they grow into ornery teenagers that suddenly seem to hate you! Human teens usually grow out of this and parrot teens CAN grow out of it but not always. Longtime devoted parrot owners learn that getting bitten comes with the territory to some degree.
My cockatoo's worst biting snd screaming began during her puberty. I rehomed her to a good friend and better big parrot person than I was when she was 4 years old (I got her at 4 months). Soon after I rehomed her Casper began to pluck her feathers and damage her skin in the process. 30 years later she still does despite being very well taken care of by my friend. Casper has worn a collar to prevent self mutilation for 30 years now.

So, what you are experiencing is pretty typical and normal for many captive parrots. I wish I could tell you how to try to solve these problems. I couldn't. That's one of the reasons I stick to budgies from now on (I have 20) and would get a cockatiel, but no more larger parrots for me. Other Parrot Forum members may be able to help you (we have some amazing active members) so read past threads about these topics and read the posts in response to yours. I wish you and your birds the very best.

 

[birbmomtx]

Regarding the biting when you want her off you- I had that problem with Casper, a Goffins Cockatoo I had many years ago, but worse because Casper would bite if I stopped giving her a full body massage on me- something she loved and craved! And she would scream for attention. Loud. Sun Conures are well known for having some of the loudest parrot screams known. Did you know this before you got any? Parrots also tend to bite. Did you realize this before you got any? Baby parrots seldom bite hard and they are so freakin' CUTE, but, like cute human children, they grow into ornery teenagers that suddenly seem to hate you! Human teens usually grow out of this and parrot teens CAN grow out of it but not always. Longtime devoted parrot owners learn that getting bitten comes with the territory to some degree.
My cockatoo's worst biting snd screaming began during her puberty. I rehomed her to a good friend and better big parrot person than I was when she was 4 years old (I got her at 4 months). Soon after I rehomed her Casper began to pluck her feathers and damage her skin in the process. 30 years later she still does despite being very well taken care of by my friend. Casper has worn a collar to prevent self mutilation for 30 years now.

So, what you are experiencing is pretty typical and normal for many captive parrots. I wish I could tell you how to try to solve these problems. I couldn't. That's one of the reasons I stick to budgies from now on (I have 20) and would get a cockatiel, but no more larger parrots for me. Other Parrot Forum members may be able to help you (we have some amazing active members) so read past threads about these topics and read the posts in response to yours. I wish you and your birds the very best.

Yes. We knew about their loud screams and they are beaky. Ours are not big screams. The younger one is more noisy but I don't find either of their screams to be bad or even annoying. As far as the biting goes. It's become so much that I just want to make sure we are not the cause of it. In other words, just need reassurance that it's normal and not that we've made her this way by being bad bird parents. I did do a lot of research and after a year of discussing the HUGE commitment we decided to go for it. No matter their phases they go through I knew rehoming would not be an option unless absolutely necessary for some wild reason. So far, the biting can be much but we understand they are birds and they will be birds, lol.

 

[DonnaBudgie]

I'm happy to hear you're prepared to keep your babies regardless. There are ways to minimize the biting behavior and you should search prior threads for help. Hand raised parrots are often so sweet and gentle as babies that owners, myself included with Casper, don't appreciate the importance of trying to train them while very young not to insist on clinging to their owners and biting in protest when denied what they want.

 

[AprilRobin]

Welcome to the forum! My husband and I have a female Sun Conure, Sprite. She does seem to be going through the "terrible twos". She is two years and about three months old now. We've also noticed her nipping hard at times, especially when she doesn't want to get off of someone's shoulder/hand (because we need her to go back in the cage for whatever reason; i.e. bed time.) Half the time, though, she is still our sweet little Sprite.

We mentioned this to the breeders who we bought her from - while buying bird treats from them - and they also called it "the terrible twos" phase.

One thing that helps is to simply set her down when she bites, say "No" in a firm voice (not shouting), and turn away/walk away. Communicate that biting = being set down. Some owners will also tap the birds' beak lightly when they say no, but owners who don't believe in it.

As DonnaBudgie said, there are older threads with more information. Also, some helpful YouTube channels are "BirdTricks", "Poodles and Parrots", and "Flying Fids".

 

[AprilRobin]

I forgot to add...Sprite's favorite treats are walnuts, millet, and apple chunks (especially Honeycrisp apples). So we never leave these treats in her cage. She can have them when she has stopped biting and is being a good bird again. The positive reinforcement is a big help.

 

[wrench13]

In a word - SHUNNING. And do not tap or otherwise physically try to reprimand any parrot.

Biting and Shunning​

Biting, whether intentional or not, just over preening your skin or actually taking chunks of meat out - all are PAINFULL! In the wild that sort of behavior is not tolerated by the flock. They ostracize flock members who continue to act like that. We call it 'Shunning'. This WILL work, but needs to be done correctly to get the message across and it needs to be done IMMEDIATELY so the parrot can associate the bite with the shunning action. And it needs to happen every time and with anyone involved with the parrot.

When the bite or over preening occurs:

• Say in a forceful but not shouting voice "No Bite" or other endearments.
• Immediately place the parrot on a nearby, handy chairback. NOT the cage (that would only teach the parrot to bite when he wants to go back to his cage).
• Turn your back to him and ignore him for 1 minute. No peeking, no talking about or too him, NADA. NO eye contact. No less or the message is lost, no more or the bird will not associate the action with the bite.
• After a minute you can try to re-establish contact.

Rinse, repeat as needed. Most parrots get the message after a few times, some may need more. Also very important - make sure the bite is not your fault. Annoying your parrot, asking him to step up when he is otherwise preoccupied with eating or playing, bothering him during known moody times like mating season, or ignoring the warnings and body language of your parrot - these are bites that you deserve! Learn, and be a better parront !!

 

[rheashard2]

In a word - SHUNNING. And do not tap or otherwise physically try to reprimand any parrot.

Biting and Shunning​

Biting, whether intentional or not, just over preening your skin or actually taking chunks of meat out - all are PAINFULL! In the wild that sort of behavior is not tolerated by the flock. They ostracize flock members who continue to act like that. We call it 'Shunning'. This WILL work, but needs to be done correctly to get the message across and it needs to be done IMMEDIATELY so the parrot can associate the bite with the shunning action. And it needs to happen every time and with anyone involved with the parrot.

When the bite or over preening occurs:

• Say in a forceful but not shouting voice "No Bite" or other endearments.
• Immediately place the parrot on a nearby, handy chairback. NOT the cage (that would only teach the parrot to bite when he wants to go back to his cage).
• Turn your back to him and ignore him for 1 minute. No peeking, no talking about or too him, NADA. NO eye contact. No less or the message is lost, no more or the bird will not associate the action with the bite.
• After a minute you can try to re-establish contact.

Rinse, repeat as needed. Most parrots get the message after a few times, some may need more. Also very important - make sure the bite is not your fault. Annoying your parrot, asking him to step up when he is otherwise preoccupied with eating or playing, bothering him during known moody times like mating season, or ignoring the warnings and body language of your parrot - these are bites that you deserve! Learn, and be a better parront !!

Agree. I did/do something similar. It works but is time consuming. Learn your parrots quirks. There's usually a tell. Something in body language will change. It can be noticeable or slight.

 

[AprilRobin]

I don't agree with beak-tapping, either. Us humans are bigger, stronger creatures, and I think tapping is very intimidating for them. Tapping/"swatting" larger pets isn't even recommended anymore (such as using a rolled-up newspaper or magazine on a dog).

 

[rheashard2]

I never considered beak tapping. My CAG trained to open beak. Put finger on side of beak where it and skull meets. Advantageous for meds, vet checks etc. NOPE I DIDN'T DO IT. I think it was the breeder who hand fed her. It would be convenient for feedings.

 

[birbmomtx]

I forgot to add...Sprite's favorite treats are walnuts, millet, and apple chunks (especially Honeycrisp apples). So we never leave these treats in her cage. She can have them when she has stopped biting and is being a good bird again. The positive reinforcement is a big he

I forgot to add...Sprite's favorite treats are walnuts, millet, and apple chunks (especially Honeycrisp apples). So we never leave these treats in her cage. She can have them when she has stopped biting and is being a good bird again. The positive reinforcement is a big help.

Thank you! Funny thing, Piper our older girl lovessss cosmic crisp apples or honey crisp ha. However, her fave is pecans. We only give those to her when she is on her cage and on special occasions. That has helped with her biting my husbands moles I'm hoping with more reinforcement we can get through this.... in one piece haha

 

[DonnaBudgie]

In a word - SHUNNING. And do not tap or otherwise physically try to reprimand any parrot.

Biting and Shunning​

Biting, whether intentional or not, just over preening your skin or actually taking chunks of meat out - all are PAINFULL! In the wild that sort of behavior is not tolerated by the flock. They ostracize flock members who continue to act like that. We call it 'Shunning'. This WILL work, but needs to be done correctly to get the message across and it needs to be done IMMEDIATELY so the parrot can associate the bite with the shunning action. And it needs to happen every time and with anyone involved with the parrot.

When the bite or over preening occurs:

• Say in a forceful but not shouting voice "No Bite" or other endearments.
• Immediately place the parrot on a nearby, handy chairback. NOT the cage (that would only teach the parrot to bite when he wants to go back to his cage).
• Turn your back to him and ignore him for 1 minute. No peeking, no talking about or too him, NADA. NO eye contact. No less or the message is lost, no more or the bird will not associate the action with the bite.
• After a minute you can try to re-establish contact.

Rinse, repeat as needed. Most parrots get the message after a few times, some may need more. Also very important - make sure the bite is not your fault. Annoying your parrot, asking him to step up when he is otherwise preoccupied with eating or playing, bothering him during known moody times like mating season, or ignoring the warnings and body language of your parrot - these are bites that you deserve! Learn, and be a better parront !!

I love the Shunning method but it's hard to do when your bird flies to you. None of my budgies have a biting problem but larger parrots often do. When your parrot flies to you and bites, how can Shunning be adapted?

 

[AprilRobin]

I love the Shunning method but it's hard to do when your bird flies to you. None of my budgies have a biting problem but larger parrots often do. When your parrot flies to you and bites, how can Shunning be adapted?

Sometimes I put Sprite back in her cage for a few minutes. This seems to get the message across. When I open the cage door again and she steps onto my finger, calmly, and doesn't try to nip again, we can go back to wherever we sat before she started nipping.