Help!

[Talven]

So long story short I rescued a 'too today. Supposed to be about 4 months old and "semi tame" which means it doesn't panic around humans will take food from your hand but is not handleable at all.

Was not handled the best prior to ending up with me. Looking for advice on what are the best foods to try as bribes for building a relationship, training etc.

I'm sure there are some great guides somewhere on here if any one could direct me to them or anything else that you think I'll need.

Situation was literally take the bird or I'll open the cage and let it go. Totally unprepared and to be honest panicking slightly. I know these are a handful.

 

[LaManuka]

Cripes Talven, you sure are a braver man than I!

Here's a link that seems to have plenty of ideas and seems to have garnered a lot of very positive feedback ...

http://www.parrotforums.com/general-parrot-information/49144-tips-bonding-building-trust.html

You'll have to fill us in on how/why he came into your life. Hopefully he has found his forever home with you!

 

[Talven]

Well full story is not so pretty but here goes. So out of the blue my wife gets a call from a friend. The friend knew we had birds and reached out. We were told it was going to be released if we didn't take it so in good conscience we said we would take it. Oh he is a Sulphur Crested 'too.

Went to collect the bird once we had a cage and bits and pieces in place. Found out that he was taken as a young bird from a wild flock. Possibly legally trapped as there are some people out this way who have a license but as it was handed to us gratis I'm thinking he was taken illegally. Kept in a small cage (Looked to be 18in L x18in D x24in H) until it came into the care of the person we got it from.

She was keeping it in a bigger cage outside in the little covered alcove where she would go smoke. Was being fed celery, carrot, sweet corn, unshelled peanuts and salted water crackers with a wild bird seed bell. No fresh water in sight. We had spoken on the phone prior so maybe the water was removed?

A 3/4in dowel was used as a prod to force (Any more force used and it would have been clubbing rather than prodding) the bird out of its cage into the travel cage. She had only had him for a week but her dog was scared of it so she had to get rid of it. Oh and he also bit her so . . .

So far the only noise he has made is a mild hiss. My cockatiels hiss with more force. I'm not sure if I should be thrilled he is so quiet for a 'too or very concerned.

I would love to be his forever home but if I can't get him tame enough to handle I will have no choice but to rehome. I don't have the space for a aviary big enough for a 'too full time and certainly not enough space indoors for a permanently caged one. I have to be able to have him out for exercise.

Sorry probably too much info there but still somewhat in panic mode.

 

[LaManuka]

Oh Talven how awful, but how wonderful of you to step in and get him away from that terrible place! I wonder, as he's so young, if it's worth considering contacting a wildlife rehab organisation who may be able to ultimately release him back to the wild?

For the life of me I will never understand how some people can be so cruel. The poor thing must be terrified! Thank you so much for stepping in and offering this little one at least a chance at a better life

 

[GaleriaGila]

Welcome!
Thank you for your big heart and brave moves.
I'm glad you're here. Stick with us and you'll find many good people here who will try to help!

 

[Betrisher]

Oh good *on* you! You're an absolute legend for taking in this poor bird!

This is could be a long journey, so hang on to your hat. Sulphur Cresteds are among the needier feathery individuals, but if you're prepared to work at it, you could wind up with an amazingly intelligent and strongly bonded companion.

The first thing is, you need to just let the bird settle in. Don't be too anxious to handle or train him yet. He's probably still reeling from being taken from his familiar surroundings to a whole new environment (think of little kids being dumped in an institution).

Try to get an idea of what makes him feel safe. Does he retreat away from you when you approach? It might help to put a fluffy branch (banksia, grevillea, bottlebrush or eucalyptus) in the cage for him to sort of 'hide' in and feel a bit protected for now. I'd keep feeding him what he's used to for a week or two (omitting the nuts and crackers of course). You might gradually try introducing new vegetables like carrot, broccoli, kale, sweet potato etc (not avocado - bad for birds). If he eats the seed bell, leave it. Wild cockies live pretty much on cereal grains and what they can glean from gum tips, so I reckon the seed bell won't hurt. Eventually, you'll want to try him with a good quality pellet diet, but that's for later.

The main thing about SCs is that they're *big*. They can bite like the proverbial, so you don't want to start a pattern of him nipping to get his way (or to defend himself - former owner sounds like a demon from the hot place!). Just move very slowly around him (he'll be very scared), try to speak softly and cut down noise levels for now. Offer him treats through the cage (millet spray, wild grass seeds, slices of apple or carrot, dried paw-paw or mango). If he takes things from your hands, that's a great start. Once you're satisfied he's totally comfortable in your house and doesn't go off like a pork chop when you approach him, you can start trying him with some training. I won't rabbit on about that (too much to read at this early stage). But please, please let us know how you get on!

I have a corella who came from an unsuitable home and she was quite a handful at first. It just takes a bit of love and determination and it's surprising how rewarding it can be to reach them in the end.

PS. Where do you live? I'm in Newcastle, NSW.

PPS. Forgot to add: do you know how old he is? If he's older than a year, you wouldn't consider releasing him into the wild as he hasn't got the foraging skills or the muscle mass to keep up with the wild flocks.

PPPS: I've got my birds in big double cages 2m x 2m x 1m. Yes, they're very large, but not as big or as expensive as a full-on aviary. They fit nicely on our back deck.

 

[noodles123]

TEACH INDEPENDENCE EARLY (gently) and avoid cuddles --even as a baby (because you do not want to set a precedent that will become sexual when the bird huts puberty in a few years). The whole "cuddly bird" thing is sex to them more than any other bird, so it's super important to set boundaries, and not indulge their desire to graft themselves to you.
Pet on the head and neck only, no boxes, no dark spaces...I know he's a baby now, but babies grow up and don't get it when things are no longer appropriate. You will basically need to think like a pre-school teacher from now on-plan lots of interactive activities to keep him/her busy and teach him/her to play...Try to make interaction activity/training based, as opposed to snuggle-based. Sadly, while known for their "velcro bird" cuddles, these desires are very closely related to their off-the-charts-re-homing-rates as adults. Their claim to fame is often their downfall in a home. They are AMAZING birds, but you have to be very devoted to their needs and if you run into issues, troubleshoot, because it is never the bird's fault.

In fully weaned birds, never attend to screaming for attention-- if it starts, establish a count of 5 seconds required quiet before reentering the room. If screaming starts again before 5 Mississippi counts, restart the count and do not attend until it stops. If that is mastered, move up to 10.

Find out what your bird is obsessed with and use that to reward anything you like....I praise the heck out of my bird for talking (vs screaming) because she is an attention sucker and will take attention in any form. Research their body language and pay attention to your bird's.

Cockatoos are SUPER needy and super social and so you absolutely must not indulge them too much early on, or you will end up miserable. They get re-homed a lot around around puberty because they are SO sweet and quiet and "cuddly" as babies---and they are babies for many years (as opposed to most birds). So, my point is, do not be lulled into a false sense of security or carry your bird everywhere because the standards you set now will potentially haunt you was 40-100 years...lol/eek. You have to be more stubborn than your bird, while being extremely patient and empathetic because they will test every nerve in your body.

Also- make sure everyone your bird interacts with understands how to respond to behaviors and how to touch the bird appropriately BEFORE petting/ interacting, because it only takes one person to derail a lot of expectations.

As Betrisher said above, DO NOT put yourself in situations where you will give your bird practice biting, or you will teach it that it can manipulate situations by doing so. Birds RARELY bite in the wild, so if they do, at least initially, it is a failure on the human's part to read the vibes/messages they are sending (last resort kind of thing). Now, if it happens enough and your bird finds out that you react in a certain way, then it may use biting to manipulate, but it won't get that far if you are able to mind the triggers and read body language before biting takes place.

 

[Scott]

Welcome Talven, your compassion and bravery saved this hapless cockatoo from near certain oblivion. Wonderful advice above, particularly from our Australian members cognizant of local species and resources.

The "honeymoon" period of adjustment runs several weeks to more than a month. Early establishment of trust (see bonding thread link) can lead to a deep bond with lifelong companion. Large cockatoos are an acquired affinity and demanding, but richly rewarding. Please keep us updated with progress and ask questions as desired!

 

[Talven]

I thought about contacting the wildlife guys about rehab and release however as I am not certain if he was trapped as a fledged bird, taken from a wild nest or from a breeder. With the lack of knowledge I don't think he would be released.

I was told that he is about four months old. No way to know for certain but I do get the feeling that he is young.

I'm in Victoria out Melton way. We don't usually see many wild 'toos. We get Corella and Galah's.

I would love to be able to get a larger cage for him out in the garden but my yard is limited on space. I rent so I'm also limited on what I can do.

I will definately be careful with allowing him to become too needy or noisy. My wife's GCC is enough of an issue. Due to mental health issues there are days where I am noise sensitive so an irate screaming 'too would be more than I could take for long.

What we are hoping for is to train him to step up so we can move him without trauma. For him to be comfortable enough to sit on the play gym. For him to be able to interact with the family, maybe the odd head scratch. And to be able to have him learn some basic "tricks" so he can get some exercise in our small house.

We want to avoid a velcro bird that bonds too tightly to one household member especially if we have to rehome. We have had to learn the hard way about this thanks to my wife's needy GCC.

 

[Scott]

Your bird has advantages of youth and fresh start to minimize tendency toward overly clingy behaviors. Teaching self entertainment and tolerance for your entire family is key to a happy relationship.