I have been silently stalking this thread and I just wanted to send you internet hugs over what a time you have been having with Loki. I saw how excited you were when you got him, and how that excitement has been "screamed" out of you. I can't claim to know or understand the feeling, however, I would like to suggest against the grain here, that you stop ignoring your bird. Obviously, ignoring him is not working. He seems desperate to either get attention or to prove that he can demand attention. I am working off of what six months of bathroom reading Mattie Sue Athan's book "Guide to Companion Parrot Behavior" has taught me. By no means am I qualified to give out advice on a screaming parrot, but at this point it seems like time is running out for your sanity. Here we go:
Redundant Screaming is the term that Athan uses to describe what Loki is doing, she says that it is a habitual behavior that stems from some sort of reinforcement, usually human induced. However, the reinforcement could just be Loki enjoying hearing the sound of his own voice. At this point I believe it is safe to say that his Redundant Screaming is permanent part of his behavioral environment. Athan states that most screaming behaviors begin as attention demanding behaviors, with the intent of soliciting a reaction of a human caretaker; be it positive or negative.
However, parrots also scream for personal enjoyment, and at this point I would beg to guess that Loki is not only screaming because he is lonely, stressed, and it is fun for him; but also as a way to keep himself entertained. You need to find a way to make Loki switch his current destructive behavior into a quieter, self-rewarding behavior. Athan says that there are three steps to correcting obsessive screaming:
1. Evaluate Specific Characteristics of the Problem: This is achieved by carefully and methodically evaluating the bird and the birds current environment. Look into cage size, location, dept, height. Look for creative foraging opportunities, do they exist in the birds cage and/or environment? Does the bird have access to several interesting and intriguing things to do, multiple branches to climb and peal, chewable toys, interactive toys, toys that make sounds? Does the bird have adequate lighting, and a consistent 12/12 hour cycle of light and dark? Fresh water? Is the birds eating schedule regular? Is his diet diverse, interesting, and nutritious? Does the bird have adequate social time of one on one interaction (towel-games, talking, stepping up, petting, etc.) and some side by side interactions (watching TV, eating, showering)? Does the bird have access to bathing facilities? Does the bird get enough exercise? Does the bird get enough simulation outside of the usual domain? Does the bird have a way to tell the passage of time, ie. a TV set on a timer? Athan states that if anyone of the above issues exists then the bird has cause to scream, and the simple act of setting a schedule or cleaning a water bowl can help eliminate the issues of screaming.
My personal opinion on this is that (along with other underlying issues) your bird is being denied crucial interaction due to your feelings of hostility towards his screaming, ignore the potential side effects of screaming to begin with and spend time enjoying your bird. If needed, don't cage him. When you are done playing one on one, put him on the back of the couch and do home work, or watch TV, or play on the computer, do something with him near you.
Back to Athan's advice; begin keeping a log of the exact times that your bird screams, this will be crucial to stopping excess screaming. Try to determine the cause of the screaming (ie, when you leave the room), however, understand that the issue is not you leaving the room, but Loki giving an unreasonable demand. Simply, Loki has not learned to be an independent bird, and is under socialized, he has not learned to entertain himself while you are away.
Begin by protecting the tempers and ears of your housemates by providing ear protection, this will help in the stress and anger generated by Loki's constant screaming. Also, play soft and relaxing music in the home to help with the screams generated by Loki hearing you move about the home.
2. Anticipate the Instances of Screaming before they occur:this is where your diligent record keeping comes in, Athan compares solving a screaming issue in parrots to solving a murder mystery. Its all about lining up the clues, and determining which ones are relevant to the case. Athan works off of a 21 day rehabilitation timeline, in which EVERY POSSIBLE INCIDENT of screaming MUST be stopped before it occurs. No more screaming. At all. This is of course, once you confirm the cause of Loki's behavior using Step 1. Once you know the problem causing the screaming you can take steps to advert the behavior by removing the stimulus, or by offering distractions before the behavior occurs. Athan explains this process by explaining a situation in which she was able to advert morning screaming by temptingly ringing her birds bell right in his face to encourage him to attack the bell while she left the room, thereby averting any screaming he may have done as she walked away.
3. Provide Irresistible Self-Rewarding Distractions: Athan states that a birds screaming problem may be best adverted if the bird itself can rewarded for its good behavior. Therefore true, built-in, environmental distractions are the stuff that form true emotional independence in a bird. Simply, if the bird is instantly rewarded for independent behaviors the bird will continue to be more and more independently satisfied.
PART TWO: The Termination Stimulus
The second idea that Athan's covers is the idea that covering a bird may alleviate the screaming, if only for a moment, but ultimately it does not resolve the problem at its core. However, with some birds, you can use the technique known as the "termination stimulus" to give the bird a chance to regain his composure by giving clues about what is going to happen. Athan calls her take on this technique "flagging," and it is used to inform the bird that it will be covered if its current behavior persists. You begin this process by first placing the bird in a cage in which a towel is draped over the side of the cage from which the bird see's the most distractions. Remind the bird to be good, in gentle and soothing tones. If the screaming persists, vocally remind the bird once more to be good in the same gentle manner, and if it still persists place another towel across the second most distracting side of the cage. If further screaming persists cover the cage in a light proof covering, and leave it there for about 10 minutes. Do not forget to uncover the bird. It is cruel and pointless. Use this technique from start to end as needed to modify the birds behavior. At some point the intent of the "flagging" is for the bird to recognize one side of the cage being covered as a veiled threat to cease and desist. If the bird stops screaming with only one towel in place, you have made great progress! The first few times this occurs reinforce positively immediately. As the training progresses wait a minute or two, being sure that the bird has in fact stopped screaming before praising the bird for his silence. Wait a few more moments and remove the towel, if the bird remains quiet reinforce. This technique, however, Athan's says is not a fix all if the birds screaming is caused by underlying issues of missing environmental keys within the birds environment (STEP 1), those issues must be dealt with before such training can be used effectively. The bird must have learned a self-rewarding behavior and be on his way to an independent member of the family.
PART THREE: Exploiting the Environment
The importance of exercise and bathing is emphasized in this part of the behavior modification. Athan's states that your bird needed adequate exercise and must have access and in some case required bathing. Try bathing your bird multiple times a day, either through misting or a gentle human shower. Just the act of grooming after a bath is self-rewarding and may begin to modify the screaming. Also begin a strict feeding and exercise schedule.( ie, Loki should be fed __________ at _________O'clock. Loki should be allowed to fly, play the towel game, or bathe at ___________, ____________, and ______________O'clock.) Provide interesting and unique toys and foraging interactions to Loki, perhaps on a string (7 really cool toys rotated for each day of the week). The idea is to allow Loki to learn how to play by himself, quietly. I hope this may have helped you some.
Please, above all else learn to enjoy your bird again. Get to know him as an individual, and most important of all learn to have a blast with your new pal!
Best Wishes,
Anna and the Kippster