New Cage

[Casper223]

 

[Casper223]

<a href="https://imgur.com/mjcL60F"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/mjcL60F.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[Casper223]

https://imgur.com/mjcL60F

 

[buenavides1]

Wow, that is such a spacious cage.

 

[buenavides1]

What are your thoughts about this large bird cage that I found on the internet?

 

[Amsterdam]

that cage is huge what bird is it for?

 

[Casper223]

that cage is huge what bird is it for?

Umbrella Cockatoo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[Casper223]

What are your thoughts about this large bird cage that I found on the internet?

I only seen a web site, the link never showed the cage.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[noodles123]

can't see it---With an umbrella, it's very important to make sure it isn't a toxic metal under a powder coating...

 

[Casper223]

can't see it---With an umbrella, it's very important to make sure it isn't a toxic metal under a powder coating...

It's an A&E Cage Noodles, I have it pictured in my photo Album,

here is another picture of it, and it's 36" by 36" by 60", Because of it's shape, my breeder said it was sufficient in size for Zoey, and it's made by A&E Cage company, safe for birds. I also added pictures of the Parrot wizard tree, the PVC activity center, along with some pictures of Zoey for my album. Please feel free to take a look, and let me know what you think.

 

[SailBoat]

Just my two cents: Consider a traditional style cage! Although, the appeal of multi-side cages is nice. They make cleaning more difficult, provide smaller interior space and less volume for the cost.

Take a look at: birdcages4less
We have been using them for over 35 years and have always been happy with the products they provide.

 

[noodles123]

For a U2, the bigger the better.
Overall, it looks fine, but the height will matter less than the width and depth (although all are important)--if you can go bigger, do, but if not, that will work as long as there is lots of daily time out of the cage. I have a feeling cleaning that thing is going to be a pain without a clear-cut slide-out tray. Also, consider your ability to hang toys etc--- if a bird flaps in the night, you don't want their wings slamming into perches or objects, so toy placement is somewhat limited in any cage due to logistics.

If I could go back and everything again, I would verify that the cage contains no toxic metals ahead of time (as opposed to assuming "safe" really meant safe). This is easier said than done, but it matters. A U2 is especially good at picking off powder coating with their powerful beaks and my bird's powder-coated cage started chipping within the first 6 months of bringing it home.

If it isn't made in the US, there is heightened risk of lead/zinc/copper etc in the metal.
"Wrought iron" alone isn't enough to know whether a cage is safe in terms of metals (as wrought iron is an alloy, and an alloy is a mix of metals---which could include zinc, copper, nickel, lead etc). The contents of the powder coating and/or paint also matter.
It may be a bit of a process to get this information, but it will be worth it in the long run.
There are lots of cages on the market that contain unsafe metals---people just aren't aware of them all the time.

You need to find out what the contents of the alloy (AKA, wrought iron) actually are.

It can be an obnoxious process, as they will likely say things like "Our cages have been safely sold for years" or "Our cage is wrought iron", or "I am looking at a list and it says "wrought iron", I see no mention of lead, zinc or copper"-------THAT DOESN'T ANSWER THE QUESTION (you need to know what is in the iron and they will have to do some research themselves in order to tell you in 99.9% of cases.

 

[Casper223]

Just my two cents: Consider a traditional style cage! Although, the appeal of multi-side cages is nice. They make cleaning more difficult, provide smaller interior space and less volume for the cost.

Take a look at: birdcages4less
We have been using them for over 35 years and have always been happy with the products they provide.

Hey SailBoat,

I tried many different Pet Stores in the City I live in. All had cockatiel cages etc... One actually tried to sell me a Large Dog Kennel Crate. I only had one place that carried cages in my area, and it was a feed store. The Cage I purchased was non-traditional, but was the largest cage in the store. I checked with my breeder, and she recommended actually a bigger cage, but was familiar with the cage I had purchased from her store. She said normally she would say too small, but since it was octagon, it added a lot more inside area, and since she was familiar with it, said she was comfortable with it's size. It's 36" all the way around, and 5 feet inside flight area. Of course, she won't spend a lot of time inside of it, as my thoughts were this is where she will sleep, eat, and be safe wile I am out running an errand, other than that she will be in one of her two activity areas, where I have a Tree Perch for one area, and a mammoth sized PVC Playset with swing in the other area, Perches are all wrapped in Vet Tape, I have pictures of it as well in my photo album you can view on my personal page.

 

[noodles123]

Have you considered ordering off of Amazon or something like that?

 

[Casper223]

Have you considered ordering off of Amazon or something like that?

I have Noodles, but am quite happy with this cage, and know it's as big as Sonny's cage, and Sonny was a Moluccan Cockatoo. The bottom of the cage has 3 grates, all wrought Iron, which make up the floor and are removable for cleaning, and also have thought about installing a tree like perch in that area, which would attach through washers and wing nuts just as do the inside perches do. The bottom Trays (3) under the grates easily slide out at the bottom for cleaning. These trays are located about 10" below the floor grates, so it's not problematic of her getting her beak through the wrought iron grates 1" spacing and into the trays themselves. I thought it was well thought out. I have see many Large bird cages, with birds enclosed, and have read minimal sizes for an umbrella cage, and by the sizes and depths provided, I exceeded them all except width, and that was only by 4". The top is also wrought Iron Metal grates, which makes hanging toys very simple. Right now I have 3 Manzita Perches installed, all 3 are 36" long, attaching on both sides securely, and a Boing rope hanging in the center of the cage, with two toys hanging inside. There seems to be about a foot between the toys and the Boing rope, on either side. As my breeder had told me, If I had called her and told her the dimensions without her first seeing the cage first hand in her store, she would have said too small, But since she was familiar with the cage from being in her store front, she was quite happy I had gone with this cage, as the inside volume was quite sufficient (Her words). Now A&E Cages does offer one larger size than this cage, But in going with that cage which is almost 5 feet wide, and 5 feet deep, and 7 feet tall, I might as well just install an indoor aviary, as in 8 foot by 10 foot by 8 feet tall flight. I do believe at this point I do have a cage of sufficient size, The picture I had posted in the test section was nearly a month ago, and since then have made the decision to purchase this cage after posting it a month ago in the Cockatoo section along with pictures asking everyone to take a look and offer feedback before I completed the purchase. Everyone who took a look at it offered positive feedback, including my breeder. If the cage looks at all cramped for Zoey, then I will consider placing it on my outside patio, and purchasing the bigger one. But I do remember having this conversation within the same week that I had mentioned a used King Cage, and decided not to go with used due to sanitary reasons, and within a day or two posted pictures of this new cage on on the cockatoo forum, asking everyone for feedback. I do have to say, getting this feedback a month after asking for it, and 3 weeks after making the purchase is beyond aggravating. Purchasing a new cage is a significant investment, and I do really feel I did sufficient research, ask the right questions, and even consulted with y'all in doing my due diligence.

 

[noodles123]

I always have mentioned the importance of metal quality. I thought you were still shopping. If this is what you have, it's what you have.

Cleaning issues etc will be obnoxious but doable. The size is fine--as long as it is safe, I think you are fine. Cockatoos are just crazy chewers so safe metal is imperative...
With this size, as long as contents are safe and as long as your U2 is given pleanty of time outside of the cage, you will be fine.

I want too emphasize (again) the importance of not over-indulging these sweet fluff-balls. They need to be taught serious boundaries early on and they want nothing more than to attach to your hip---it feels great to feel so loved, but it is sick and harmful to the bird--so remember to keep cuddles minimal and teach independence early on. If you don't, you create a monster, and remember, 6 years is a long time to hang in there and keep a routine---lots of birds get re-homed at 6 and that is when many reach sexual maturity, but habits start before then. We are still talking 4 hours of out of cage time daily---at least---but it's so important that you teach them not to need you constantly (BEFORE THEY START TO SCREAM AND MAKE NOISE 3+ YEARS LATER) lol

 

[Casper223]

I always have mentioned the importance of metal quality. I thought you were still shopping. If this is what you have, it's what you have.

Cleaning issues etc will be obnoxious but doable. The size is fine--as long as it is safe, I think you are fine. Cockatoos are just crazy chewers so safe metal is imperative...
With this size, as long as contents are safe and as long as your U2 is given pleanty of time outside of the cage, you will be fine.

I want too emphasize (again) the importance of not over-indulging these sweet fluff-balls. They need to be taught serious boundaries early on and they want nothing more than to attach to your hip---it feels great to feel so loved, but it is sick and harmful to the bird--so remember to keep cuddles minimal and teach independence early on. If you don't, you create a monster, and remember, 6 years is a long time to hang in there and keep a routine---lots of birds get re-homed at 6 and that is when many reach sexual maturity, but habits start before then. We are still talking 4 hours of out of cage time daily---at least---but it's so important that you teach them not to need you constantly (BEFORE THEY START TO SCREAM AND MAKE NOISE 3+ YEARS LATER) lol

Noodles, it's been a rough day, and I sure didn't mean for that to come out like that. It's just I tried posting pictures of the cage back on 5/3, and used this forum to test the picture links to see if they would come through. Then after getting them to show up, I posted the pictures of the cage on the Cockatoo forum, and asked everyone to take a look, see what they thought before I purchased the cage. The problem was I wanted to actually put eyes on the cage, check it's durability, see that it was securely made, check the bar spacing make sure it was 1". After posting it on the forum, I was also in contact with my breeder, and asked her her thoughts. She immediately said "Heck Yeah, I'm familiar with that cage, we had it in my store for a while, but A&E discontinued selling them, so I'm not able to get them anymore. But her comments were, after seeing it in her store, and seeing as open and non traditional as it was, it was a shame A&E discontinued it. A&E has a banner on their page, they have a cover to fit every cage, This particular cage was so difficult to fit, The company they had the contract with refused to renew the contract. So I was left without a good quality bird cover. You and I engaged in a post again about this cage, and you told me about your cage cover, and what quality it was and durable. I went to that company (Prevue) and ordered a cover specifically big enough to cover this cage lol and I remember thanking you for the information. We talked about the metal and everything also then in a discussion, and I sent you everything I could find about the cage, and all I received back was compliments, and my breeder told me, if you can get that cage you would be well to get it, as its discontinued so A&E isn't selling it anymore, so it will be difficult to find, so a week later after receiving no negative feedback, I purchased it, but had to have the store employees disassemble it. Of course the disassembled it in just enough pieces I could get it through my doors without having to reassemble the whole thing, But still it was a pain lol. The top of the cage is 3 sets of grates, which bolt down by Allen screws, Then the cage itself was in 2 pieces, and I bolted them back together, The bottom had to be reassembled, and has three grates in the floor, no bolts, but then under the grates are three drawers, that slide out for the bottom filler. The grates lift out, and the drawers pull out. I also got a bird grade cleaner to spray on the grates called poop cleaner, I think that was it's name, you spray it on, then spray water on the poop and it's suppose to come off with ease. I'm sure in my mind their will be some scrubbing, nothing is ever as easy as the sales person makes it out to be. But the whole cage is on wheels, which I have it in a corner as you suggested again, Then my breeder suggested I leave enough room between the cage and both walls to slide my arm between to keep her from chewing outside the cage. I then installed a heated perch, which is about 1 ¼" in diameter, and a box that attaches to the inside of the cage at one end of that perch to keep her warm. It's separate from all the other perches, but it's made in the case of a cool snap. I've plugged them both in for a few days, and checked them both, and they were working great. After purchasing the tree from Parrot Wizzard, He was generous enough to include a couple of half perches, that screw in from one side, for me to try out.

Guess after all the discussion on the cockatoo Forum and your feedback, I was really amazed that I just used this test forum to figure the cage picture out before posting it appropriately, that you commented. I just felt like we've had this discussion. But trust me, had I got any negative feedback, I would have stopped immediately and contacted A&E to see if any other venders had the larger cage, knowing they discontinued it. But I'm 6'2" and this cage is just over my head, but of course it's on wheels, has the drawers and the bottom grates.

Sonny of course was never really a caged parrot, He spent the majority of time on his activity center, or Mom moved him over to the table during the day. The only time he went into his cage was when we ran an errand, or when no one was home, or if someone was over that Mom didn't know how the two would react to one another, Other than those times, Sonny was out all the time, and I want to do the same with Zoey. I mean out of say a 28 day month, I work 14 days, and am off 14, So I will be able to spend lots of time with her.... But Noodles, the thing you keep emphasizing which is great is my greatest weakness. As I was explaining to Scott the other day, Sonny was a family member before I was born. So I never did get the gest of their initial bond. Sonny was very well mannered as well. Of course he had his moments of screaming, once in a while would throw a temper tantrum, and throw things, but those days weren't very often. My mother handled him with a very specific tone, and me and my brother was glad it was him in trouble and not us. She could scold him in that tone, and I swear, Sonny knew he was doomed. He might carry on a bit after, or be like a teen and slam a door or something in his tantrum, But he paid the price for his tantrums in lack of treats, and the tone of my mom's voice. The part that scares me the most, and to me is the most important part, is the beginning, and I've got to get that right. My breeder has raised hundreds of birds, and placed them in good homes, as she said, she rarely re-homes a bird, But she does offer that service. As a matter of fact, before I purchased Zoey, she had a 3 year old in her store, and offered to make me a deal on, I passed it up, knowing someone would scoop him up, But I was set on a hand fed baby, first and last home, just like Sonny was. I do understand their feelings for wanting to be a velcro bird, and I have read other owners describe their birds as a "Flying Miniature Dragons with a can opener on it's face. I'm smart enough to figure out, there were more than one thing that went wrong in that adoption process, So let me just say, I've put, cage, perches, toys, food all behind me, and my research is now directly what to do with Zoey, from the time I get her home, to the point I can finally relax a little. I do plan on getting her into an Avian Vet within the week of her arrival. My breeder asked me to remove all her toys, and any distraction from her cage for the first 2-3 days, all we want Zoey to focus on is finding her food and water bowls. (My breeder and I have been actively talking strategy) I can promise you I have enough toys, swings, trees etc to keep her busy for a while, and then more toys to rotate out when she's finished with the first half dozen or so. So after getting her familiar with her food and water bowls, Then I will start her training. I also want to order her an Aviator Harness, That's something we never had with Sonny, but I do want to get Zoey use to it. The breeder tried one on her the other day at her aviary, and said she was a medium, but still had some growing going on. I want her to be as Gentle as Sonny, and as well mannered. I get that every bird comes with a different personality, But I want to get to know her without spoiling her. I want to train her. The breeder sent me a few dozen finger traps and other devices especially made to distract her from biting. When I asked what they were for, She advised for when Zoey got to exploring things with her beak, that were No-no's, provide her a finger trap or another device to divert her attention. So right now Noodles, I'm pretty much past everything else, and moving quickly into how not to spoil her, but yet spend time with her, So please, provide all the feedback you can spare on what to do with her from the time she makes it home, until I can finally relax and allow her to play without destroying the house. I know you know a lot about this, So please I'm asking for feedback specifically in this area.

As I stated earlier, If I find that this cage isn't big enough for her to stretch out in, or if I feel she dislikes her environment after placing toys inside of it, I promise you, I will replace her cage with a larger one. But I got to say at this point, this cage new was a substantial investment, and taking it back apart, hauling it back to the store and asking them to get a larger one, Well I just have no clue how the store would even react to that honestly. To be honest, I'm over it concerning the cage, time for me to move foreword, as I don't know day to day when the breeder will call and say she's ready. It's like a pregnancy and the baby is due any day lol

 

[noodles123]

The cage you have totally looks adequate (nice, size looks fine, etc)-- Like I said, I thought you were still shopping or I wouldn't have commented.

You can spend a lot of time with her, but walk away to do things within the same room etc etc (don't let her assume that just because you walk over you will be picking her up or even always touching her) You can touch if she is comfortable, but not every time. Don't take her with you everywhere but do allow her to hang out on her cage top or tree-stand (depending on how old she is and her perching ability) frequently. Try not to spend way more time with her than you would typically (ESPECIALLY when it comes to holding her). I will say, sometimes I spend entire days with Noodles on the weekend, but she is always annoyed with me on Monday when I have to go to work. I never hold her the whole day---I just mean that she is out of her cage for entire days on some weekends and we are interacting off and on throughout--- that having been said, it isn't her expectation because it doesn't happen daily. I would advise against cuddles---let her stand on your hand/arm if she will, but don't hug against your chest or allow burrowing in your lap or under clothes. If you do any "cuddles", I would say a few seconds max and stick to head and neck petting even though yours is a baby-- you don't want to set up expectations.
You can have her out when you are home, but don't always stay within her line of sight---it is their nature to flock call etc when you leave, but you don't want to come running back if/when they do. Practice leaving the room and returning so that she learns that you come back. *I WOULD GET A BABY MONITOR OR SET UP A WEB-CAM* (so you can see what she is up do--they can get into things quickly). Walk away for varied amounts of time and don't baby her in terms of errands you might have to run etc (they do need to learn that they can be alone at times). Don't carry her everywhere you go when you are home. Get her used to staying on her perch/cage top when you are nearby. You can carry her around sometimes, but you don't want to make that the expectation. Trust me--- cleaning with a cockatoo on your shoulder is impractical as heck..as are most things in life involving cockatoos lol!
If you have to do something and cannot supervise, put her back in the cage and do it (practice leaving the home off and on and listening outside the door to see if there is any reaction etc).
As important as routine is, you don't want to make all aspects of your day so routine that the bird cannot handle a change.
For this reason, I would change up elements of your day (excluding bed-times and meal-times within reason) and I would try not to be too set on doing things in order. For instance, if you come back from the store with groceries, try to change up that routine (always say hello to the bird etc, but maybe sometimes you let the bird out right away, maybe the next time you unload groceries before letting out the bird, maybe the next time you use the restroom before letting up the bird)...Does that make sense?

It will be up to you to set up routines, and in many cases, having a set routine/ritual will help relax your bird (for instance, my vacuuming routine is very set). That having been said, if there is no reason to have a routine, then consider changing it up to prevent your bird from becoming to rigid.
I do always tell my bird what I am about to do so that she learns the words associated with activities etc....

Expose your bird to lots of things as early as you safely can-- e.g., showering in the shower (when old enough), moving furniture, vacuuming, sweeping, other animals (under VERY close supervision), kids, lots of other people (once settled in your home), loud noises, balloons, unexpected movements in a room, harnesses, car rides, bird coats/clothes/flight suits, different perches, different weighing scales etc etc....The more positive and normal you make these experiences early on, the more well-adjusted your adult bird will be. Everything has the potential to inspire fear, so if you can show these things to your bird before they get all willful and adolescent, you will probably have better luck Don't do all of this stuff right away, but once your bird is comfortable with you.

BASICALLY, try to live life as you would without bending over backwards to keep the bird happy. Yes, they need a lot of attention and time out of their cages, but they can also learn to play and be alone when needed. There may be times when you are home and the bird has to go in her cage (say, you have to do something in another room). My bird struggles with being caged when she can hear other people in the house (because she is typically out when I am home). That having been said, these are all things to consider. You want her to be flexible enough to roll with a variety of situations without melting down. Never attend to attention-seeking screaming.
You can prevent it in many cases if you tell your bird where you are going and talk to your bird periodically from the other room. That having been said, never if the bird is already screaming should you talk back or return to the room.

Model playing with toys and play with them in front of your bird while she watches. If you have a friend over, have them play with the toy nearby---the bird will watch and learn. Praise and reward when your bird chews on a toy or shows interest.

I know this post is all over the place...I am trying to stay on track, but I keep side-tracking myself lol!

I have to go to work, but if I think of more, I will let you know.

I am guessing the cleaner you got is "poop off" (which is fine/good---it's popular).
For an excellent avian-safe disinfectant, I recommend the clear/yellowish concentrated bottles of F10 SC. You can dilute it yourself and it makes A TON. It sanitizes way better than vinegar (probably the closest safe alternative to something like bleach). I do 2 ml per 17 oz of cold water (1:250 dilution ration) and store it in a chemically resistant spray bottle. It doesn't have to be wiped off of surfaces and it is safe for contact with the bird once dry. Honestly, vets will even nebulize birds using it, so you know it's safe for them to be around when you are using it. It comes in a tiny little bottle, but that tiny bottle makes more than 13 gallons once mixed.

 

[noodles123]

Almost forgot-- as much as you don't want to start a cuddling expectation that will become obnoxious (and sexual) in adulthood, you should work with your bird on the types of clinical handling that you or a vet might need to for for a vet visit--- If I gently pull on my bird's wing, she will extend it out so I can look at it. If I need to touch her feet, I can.
You don't want to scratch under the wings etc, but you should occasionally do things to get them used to what might be needed in a medical setting.

Also-- preening pin feathers is a great bonding activity if your bird is close to you, but don't preen any of the feathers that your bird can reach without your help. Head and neck pin-feathers are the ones you will help with. Not gonna lie, my adult U2 still sometimes gets a bit sexual at times when I preen hers, so then I change the subject and back off (it usually only happens with prolonged preening though).

Last thing--don't share spit/food you have eaten off of with your bird. If you want to share, put a bit in a separate dish before you take a bite of it. Don't get her started on wanting to eat off of your plate (for begging reasons and due to germ safety).

 

[noodles123]

I just thought of something else-- you will want to work on station training-- it is possible to get a U2 to stay on their perch unless called...at least 75% of the time. That having been said, it takes some work. If the bird leaves the perch (via flight), I would put it back on etc etc. There is a whole complex mindset that has to go along with this though, because if a bird is an attention-seeker, you don't want them to figure out that if they fly, you run to pick them up every time, so you kind of have to know your bird.
That having been said, my unclipped 11 year old only will fly off her cage if scared---otherwise, she attempts to climb off (and that isn't all that common--- usually when she feels ignored lol)