My tips on taming a biting GCC

JerryNewt

New member
May 20, 2020
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Hi everybody,

A while ago I decided to buy a 6 month old pearly conure. At that time my bird was quite nippy and also biting (breaking skin, drawing blood etc). He wasn’t afraid, he just didn’t know what kind of pressure to use. It was quite painful because he would do this every single time you’d have him on your fingers/hand. Any piece of skin was fair game.

See my original post: http://www.parrotforums.com/new-members-welcome/85755-hello-everybody-intro-advice-needed.html

So it’s been two months and I’m now fully able to handle my conure in any way I want, he doesn’t ever break skin (nipping yes, it’s their nature). He has learned tricks, is learning how to say hello and is now shoulder proof. He doesn’t ever bite my ear or even nips it hard. Also he is barely making any sound when we are near.

So I thought, let me share some tips that helped me get to this point:
1) Accept the pain and risk of handling your bird: I was still somewhat nervous of his bites as it would always break skin or draw blood. This made handling him awkward for him and me.
a. Find a way to avoid too much pressure on bites. Earthquaking, blowing, saying no or anything else didn’t work for me. Grabbing his beak very gently nullified the pressure he was able to exert on my skin. This worked for me.
2) Use target training as a way to bond with your bird: I used the abundance of videos about target training and learned him two tricks “say yes” and making a full 360 twirl on command.
a. Use a small stick that is long, but not too long.
b. A clicker worked wonders for me, you can also try an app with clicker sounds.
3) Give it time: Every day my bird changed. Slowly but surely he would make new sounds, be more relaxed around me and before I knew it his first nip didn’t continue into a bite. He just stopped after his nip, that was huge progress!
4) Give him enough attention: I spend about 30-60 minutes 1 on 1 time and he spends about 3-5 hours outside of his cage. He does his thing and I do mine.
a. Sometimes he barely gets any 1 on 1 time or gets outside of his cage. It doesn’t affect him much, just make sure to keep him entertained with toys and foraging stuff.
b. Yes he poops and makes a mess of stuff. So make sure you don’t have expensive stuff nearby that is easily breakable or cannot get dirty.

This last tip is quite a controversial topic in every bird community so hence it comes last.

I’ve clipped my bird his wings. This was needed in my eyes (due to my lack of experience and his general forward, no fear mindset) as this made everything way easier for me.

He changed from being all over the place and just doing what he wanted, to being more dependant on me.

He can still fly about 4 meters diagonally upwards and just flies in general, it just takes way more effect. Yes I will let his flight feathers come back and leave them unclipped. It was just an inbetween step for training purposes.

That’s all I got. This got me so far, now my aim is to reinforce our bond and my handling ways with him. Then it’s off to free flight training maybe?
 

Scott

Supporting Member
Aug 21, 2010
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San Diego, California USA, Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
Parrots
Goffins: Gabby, Abby, Squeaky, Peanut, Popcorn / Citron: Alice / Eclectus: Angel /Timneh Grey: ET / Blue Fronted Amazon: Gonzo /

RIP Gandalf and Big Bird, you are missed.
An excellent summation of progress! Kudos for patience and love, your results are impressive.

I do agree temporary wing clipping (after the bird has fledged) helps moderate aggression as prelude to training.

Outdoor free-flight has adherents, though I would never attempt. My locale is rife with raptors, white cockatoos would not last long. Our forum has heartbreaking stories of birds lost while free-flying. Please consider whether the obvious joy of freedom is worth a high chance of regret.
 

noodles123

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2018
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Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
a. Find a way to avoid too much pressure on bites. Earthquaking, blowing, saying no or anything else didn’t work for me. Grabbing his beak very gently nullified the pressure he was able to exert on my skin. This worked for me

I am not saying this DIDN'T work for you, but it's definitely not best-practices and can most certainly backfire over time. You want to build trust and this does the opposite (hopefully, your bird has started to trust you for other reasons, and you will not have to experience that). If you are getting bitten, you are not reading your bird and if you are not reading your bird, you have less trust and control long-term. It's like those parents who are SUPER strict with their kids---sure, you can get compliance through physical means, but for how long...and at what cost. Intrinsic motivation is always stronger and more lasting than extrinsic motivation.

There is definitely an old school of thought out there that revolves around showing dominance and basically ruling through discomfort, but it's not the best course long-term and it is based on faulty logic...Almost like, spare the rod, spoil the child. It seems rooted in dog training (in which dominance and submission were strongly emphasized, historically)...It's almost like, "you are my pet, so it's my way or the highway..I don't care if you are uncomfortable with me"...I am not saying what you did physically harmed your bird, but it didn't really account for his opinion or desires at all...(hence the biting)

With patience and an understanding of parrot behavior, you can make lasting changes to biting behavior (at their pace) which promote bonding, predictability and trust. If other things didn't work, it's likely that you were too impatient to see the results or continued to rush contact before your bird was ready...

I get that blowing on a bird isn't "mean", but it doesn't address the root a the problem when the only way to stop biting is to completely distract your bird by throwing their senses for a loop. Birds rarely bite in the wild...it's practically a non-issue--- that's because birds understand other birds.

The best way to stop biting is to learn your bird's signals, build trust, stop pushing them when they aren't ready and allow them to lead the pacing...again, if you are getting bitten, it is because you are not paying attention or because you have taught them that biting works. Therefore, by avoiding biting, you prevent the possibility of inadvertently reinforcing it when it does happen, plus, you build trust because birds don't WANT to bite-- it is a sign of stress and stress is the enemy of bonding.

Again, I am not saying that your bird doesn't trust you, but your bird also hasn't necessarily hit sexual maturity, so I would seriously focus more on building trust/reading body language...There are other ways to teach a bird not to bite.
 
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JerryNewt

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-snip-

Again, I am not saying that your bird doesn't trust you, but your bird also hasn't necessarily hit sexual maturity, so I would seriously focus more on building trust/reading body language...There are other ways to teach a bird not to bite.

Hi Noodles,

I understand your viewing point and fully agree on preventing is better than curing, but after reading all sorts of stories on what did and did not work for bites, I concluded that I had to try my own way. I based my tactic on "bite training" that I've read on the forum.

My bird did hit his puberty phase, I think, as he tried to woo me and regurgitate (about 3-4 weeks after I got him) for a while. I hope I passed that one as he no longer shows any signs. He isn't aggresive towards others either as he never bit anybody that handled him after my last bite.

If anybody els has questions or wants to know something, feel free to ask!
 
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noodles123

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2018
8,145
472
Parrots
Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
-snip-

Again, I am not saying that your bird doesn't trust you, but your bird also hasn't necessarily hit sexual maturity, so I would seriously focus more on building trust/reading body language...There are other ways to teach a bird not to bite.

Hi Noodles,

I understand your viewing point and fully agree on preventing is better than curing, but after reading all sorts of stories on what did and did not work for bites, I concluded that I had to try my own way. I based my tactic on "bite training" that I've read on the forum.

My bird did hit his puberty phase, I think, as he tried to woo me and regurgitate (about 3-4 weeks after I got him) for a while. I hope I passed that one as he no longer shows any signs. He isn't aggresive towards others either as he never bit anybody that handled him after my last bite.

If anybody els has questions or wants to know something, feel free to ask!


I figured, I was just putting it out there for others who might think that was the best way upfront, you know?
 

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