Some basic questions about parrot ownership

gakman

New member
Oct 20, 2020
1
0
Hi all,

To start with we don't have a parrot yet so we are doing our due diligence to see if a parrot is right for us. Please excuse me if my questions sound "stupid", we are less than noobs....

There are no kids in our household and we have a large lanai area where I think would be good for a parrot.

My questions:
1. Is there one breed that makes less noise than another?
2. Would having a parrot help deters pesty birds/pigeons from coming around (we have bird poop you won't believe)?
3. If we are to let him out of the cage, I guess that would mean allowing them to run around INDOORS? Should I assume not to let them loose, say in the lanai or the backyard?
4. If we have a perch in the lanai (outside of the cage), would they enjoy "hanging out" on the perch? And would a restrain (say, a chain) be considered inhumane and a no-no?
5. Are parrots good riding inside a car? (I imagine in a smaller cage)
6. Is it always better to have 2 parrots so they are less lonely?

Thank you so much and I apologize for my naivety.
 

Ellie777Australia

New member
Apr 12, 2019
1,280
98
Queensland, Australia
Parrots
SI Eclectus Female, Ellie; RS/SI Eclectus Male, Bertie (both adopted as rescue/re-home)
Hi all,

To start with we don't have a parrot yet so we are doing our due diligence to see if a parrot is right for us. Please excuse me if my questions sound "stupid", we are less than noobs....

There are no kids in our household and we have a large lanai area where I think would be good for a parrot.

My questions:
1. Is there one breed that makes less noise than another?
2. Would having a parrot help deters pesty birds/pigeons from coming around (we have bird poop you won't believe)?
3. If we are to let him out of the cage, I guess that would mean allowing them to run around INDOORS? Should I assume not to let them loose, say in the lanai or the backyard?
4. If we have a perch in the lanai (outside of the cage), would they enjoy "hanging out" on the perch? And would a restrain (say, a chain) be considered inhumane and a no-no?
5. Are parrots good riding inside a car? (I imagine in a smaller cage)
6. Is it always better to have 2 parrots so they are less lonely?

Thank you so much and I apologize for my naivety.


Welcome to the forum gakman. You are researching before you take on the huge responsibility of having a parrot so kudos to you. No question is stupid around here and even if you've been a 'parrot slave' for years you are still a noob and naive in some areas that just pop up! LOL.



Take a look around the forum and look at various specific parrot species sections for a breed of parrot that my suit you. You will also find our various opinions on 'clipped wings', 'free flight' etc. My two love going for a ride in the car: Ellie is harnessed and Bertie is in his travel cage. With respect to 2 parrots, you will find multiple personal opinions on this also. 2 parrots, 2 cages, twice the work and ....have fun here and welcome to our awesome family.:)
 

noodles123

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2018
8,145
472
Parrots
Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
Welcome! Glad you found us.

1.depends (that is a massive question with many layers) but from a biological perspective, the decibels produced by certain birds is as loud as a jet engine up close. Almost all are "loud" but there's loud, and then there is L-O-U-D. If quiet in general, or lets say...the quiet you would have with a dog or cat is important to you, I would not recommend a bird.

2. No. mine seems to interest them. I have more birds near my window now than I did before.

3. do not let loose outside even if clipped (then can still fly outdoors)-- It takes one scare or breeze and then your bird is off (even if they love you, they struggle with descent --especially in unfamiliar settings like the outdoors...plus, there are predators like hawks that WILL swoop down to kill even large parrots.

4. if they are on a perch in an enclosed space, you would still need to perch train and supervise, as they can chew on things that could poison them or allow them to get out. Do not rely on leg chains (as these can break their legs). You can harness train most if you have the patience or start young using appropriate training, but even then, you need to supervise.


5 parrots can adapt to riding in cars in travel cages, but it isn't something that comes naturally for many

6. absolutely not-- you should never get a bird for your bird, and no 2 birds are guaranteed to get along. If they do get along, then you could end up with mating issues and hormonal issues (like aggression, egg binding etc). This also usually makes it way harder for the human to bond with the bird. BUT- you need to spend AT LEAST 3 hours of real interaction time with your bird each day. They also need a bed time and a minimum of 10-12 hours of sleep nightly--so that is important to think about as well.

I would strongly strong encourage you to research way more (and not on general pet websites, but on sites devoted to specific species or to parrots specifically). Rule of thumb: if the main part of the link between www and .com contains the word "pets" it is probably written by someone who has never even has a parrot...or is selling them (and unless it is a rescue, many places that sell birds gloss over the important details)
These birds are super complicated pets--- way much more work than any cat or dog (don't get me wrong, they are amazing, but they are more like a kid than a pet in many ways). The lifestyle changes you would have to make are tremendous....No ptfe/pfoa/pfc/teflon (not anywhere in the same house. period) , no perfumes, incense, candles, air fresheners, plug-ins or standard cleaners, smoking, vaping, burning food etc.

Imagine adopting a 3 year old with a beak that doesn't speak your language and never grows up (and can die from breathing random things-- like a kid with a severe peanut allergy almost). We are talking about serious commitment to a very intelligent and often very frustrating animal. If you are able to volunteer at an avian rescue, that can sometimes give you an idea of the noise etc. They are always sweet as babies but when they hit sexual maturity, a lot changes and many people end up struggling because they don't know to handle their bird's behavior. There are good ways to handle behaviors and bad ways, but people's initial instinct is often wrong when it comes to trying to reduce behaviors...It's easy to inadvertently create a "monster" by accidentally reinforcing the very behaviors you were trying to stop.


Think about your lifestyle, travel plans, future plans, age etc when considering this. Also, your proximity to a decent avian vet. I know not all places have this option, but birds are super good at hiding illness (as showing it gets them killed in the wild). So, unlike most pets where it's super obvious if something is wrong, by the time a bird shows obvious symptoms, you are often looking at an emergency. If you have other pets in the house, they can also pose a major risk (esp cats).

They need a very large cage (even small birds). So don't get one of those dinky 2 foot cages that they sell at many pet stores... those are way too small.

They are not domestic animals (unlike chickens, dogs, cats etc). They do not trust quickly and you must be prepared to move in SLOW motion (even if they are super trusting when young, they often push away as they mature (so you have to prepare for that-- it isn't a deal-breaker, but a bird that hasn't seemed like much work in the trust department can begin to feel like it). A baby bird is super easy, but they don't stay that way, so it's really important to learn how to avoid spoiling them and how to set them (and yourself) up for success when they mature.
They have to be taught everything, and you have to build and keep trust...It's not easily granted like it is with many animals.

Remember that your bird may "pick" your spouse over you, or vice-versa. They can get really obsessive and jealous. Proper socialization can reduce but not completely eliminate this tendency. Your bird could like you both, tolerate one of you and love the other, or be obsessed with one of you and hate the other...To further complicate things, the person loved most by a baby bird may not be the person loved most by the same bird as an adult lol. So you really have to be committed to working through any bumps in the road without throwing in the towel.
They don't operate under the idea of "dominance" so you cannot force a bird to do something without risking serious set-backs in the trust department...They don't forgive and forget easily (although trust can be rebuilt over time in most cases, depending on what caused the loss).

They are also SUPER expensive. The initial cost of the bird is nothing compared to the cage, food, toys, veterinary care etc. The lifetime cost for a large parrot can be $80,000 or even more if there are medical issues etc.
 
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noodles123

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2018
8,145
472
Parrots
Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
Here is my copy-and paste for potential/new owners:

One really important thing when keeping a pet bird in the house is that you cannot use scented products or chemicals/fumes in your home (even things that smell nice to us(---things like smoke, perfumes, air freshener, standard cleaners, vaping, burning food, incense, cigarettes, glue, paint, window sealing kits, polishes, aerosol sprays etc can harm your bird's sensitive respiratory system (which is not the same as mammals'). Using products that heat or are heated which contain Teflon/PTFE/PFCs = very very dangerous. These products off-gas and can kill a bird in under 5 minutes. Teflon/PTFE/PFOA/PFCs are most commonly found in the kitchen (pots, pans, cookie sheets, drip trays, air fryers, popcorn poppers, baking mats, crock pots, toasters, toaster ovens, popcorn poppers, waffle irons, electric skillets etc. They can also be found in space-heaters, curling irons, blow-dryers, straighteners, heat lamps, heat guns, irons, ironing board covers etc. These fumes have killed birds through closed doors and on separate floors of a home, so you should replace your cookware with stainless steel, cast iron or ceramic. You may be thinking-- well, I have used them before and my bird is fine, but they kill very inconsistently and it depends on what you are cooking, the age of the pot/pan, the specific bird etc. There was a member who lost many of her birds from a pan she had literally used for years...then one day, her husband cooked an egg (without burning or overheating) and many of them died, while the rest showed signs of respiratory distress.

You will need an avian-safe cleaner to use within your home (both on the bird cage, but also, around the house). Again, chemical cleaners cannot be used in the home unless avian safe. F10 SC (the yellow/clear concentrate) is a great, avian-safe disinfectant. Other (less effective) options include products such as "poop-off", white vinegar + water, grapefruit seed extract + water, baking soda etc. Peroxide is also fairly safe for disinfecting places like your bathroom, but you do not want your bird to come into contact with it.

Some foods are toxic to them--avocado, coffee (even decaf), caffeine, rhubarb, alcohol, onions/garlic/leeks/chives, mushrooms etc. Salt is also very bad for them, as is most human food. They love it, but it's not healthy.

They should not just eat seed--you will want to feed lots of washed fresh vegetables. Fruit is fine in moderation, but too much can lead to obesity and behavioral issues due to sugar. I feed my bird a mix of high-quality seed (no sunflowers, no peanuts) and pellets (in addition to fruit/veg). ECCLECTUS PARROTS SHOULD NOT EAT PELLETS. Fruit pits are toxic, as are apple seeds. Corn cob and certain nut shells (if swallowed in big pieces) can cause blockages, so you should be very cautious if you give your bird nuts in the shell. Peanuts can harbor aspergillosis, and should be avoided altogether (even they you often see them marketed towards parrots).

It is important to make sure that your bird's toys and cage are made of safe metals. Stainless steel is safest. They can get metal poisoning from playing with or mouthing objects made of unsafe metals.

They need a set amount of sleep each night (at least 10 hours) and the largest cage you can manage with lots of different perches. You want to avoid the totally smooth/round ones as they can lead to a condition called bumblefoot. Never place a cage near drafts and never allow cool air to blow on a bird. They are sensitive to drafts and any temperature shift greater than 10 degrees can cause a shock to their system.

They need lots of safe toys and safe wood to chew. Not all wood is safe, so don't just assume you can give them any kind you want. Pressure blasted or chemically treated wood (e.g., lumber and many other types of wood from the hardware contains toxic chemicals or are cut from trees that are naturally toxic.

They hide illness and so you have to watch them to make sure they are eating normally and pooping normally etc. You should try to find an avian vet (certified avian) if at all possible and take your bird AT LEAST 1 x yearly for an exam. An avian vet is NOT the same as an exotics vet who sees birds--- so if a certified avian vet is available within a few hours of where you live, you will want to set up care.

All parrots can easily confuse the relationship with their human for a sexual one. You don't want this to happen, even though it seems sweet at first. Stick to petting on the head and neck only (the rest is sexual) and do not allow your bird to play in shadowy places, like boxes or under furniture, as these spaces are similar nesting sites and are hormonal triggers. NO SNUGGLE HUTS/TENTS!

Food and water should be replaced daily--- wash the containers daily. Never leave wet food out for more than a few hours (as it can lead to bacterial growth). Never try to medicate a bird via drinking water and never add vitamins to water. Vitamins can be over-dosed easily and harm a bird. Plus, when you add things to water, it makes it impossible to know how much they have gotten and it also encourages bacterial growth. Sometimes it can prevent them from drinking adequately if they don't like the flavor of whatever it is you added. Citrus and fruits high in vitamin C should be given in extreme moderation because they can cause "Iron Storage Disease" (for a cockatoo, 1 small tangerine slice 1-2 times a week was okay, according to my vet).

These birds have the intelligence of 3-4-year-old human, but they are wild animals (not domesticated like dogs). This means that they see the world (and humans) in a very unique way and so you must learn about their behavior in order to prevent problems (screaming, plucking etc). They need lots of time out of their cage daily and a lot of interaction (at least a few hours). At the same time, you don't want to spend TOO much time with a bird of they will become overly dependent and not know what to do with themselves when you go to work etc.

Finally, baby birds are ALWAYS sweet compared to adult birds. When your bird hits puberty, expect that it will exhibit some annoying and problematic behaviors (much like a teen). A through knowledge of behavior and setting expectations at an early age will make your life easier when that time comes, but do prepare yourself and expect that things will not always be so smooth-sailing. Think about a baby human compared to a teen...

I am sure there is more...but that is a basic overview of caring for birds.

Here is an excerpt from another post (which you may want to reference when shopping/ calling about Teflon:
The most insidious is the Teflon/ptfe/pfoa/pfcs because you have to call the company to verify that anything that heats or is intended to be heated does not contain these substances ("PTFE free" doesn't mean PFC free and so there are a lot of marketing gimmicks out there to make people buy what seems like healthier cook-ware, even though it still contains a version of the same chemicals). Also-- these chemicals can be woven into fabric, mixed into metal during the moulding process, applied as a powder, applied as a clear-coat, or mixed with a colored coating. You cannot assume that you will be able to identify them visually, so, when you call, you must provide all abbreviations and full names + spellings of each chemical compound (and then they usually give you "the run around" for a week or so IF they ever answer your questions at all---because sometimes it's a "trade secret"). It's all very sketchy and DuPont (manufacturer of Teflon) claims that off-gassing only occurs at really high temperatures, but there have been numerous documented/scientific and anecdotal reports of birds passing away at temperatures in the 300 F range (and again, it kills through closed doors and on different floors).
FYI- Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA)
A perfluorinated compound (PFC)
Teflon (a common brand-name of non-stick cookware containing these chemicals)

10- 12 hours nightly for sleep, so if you get up at 6 and make a bunch of noise, you will wake the bird up (even if they are still covered). If they wake up at 6, bed should be between 6-8. You want to keep it around the same time if possible (because that's how it is in nature).


OH-- something I didn't mention in my last post-- stainless steel is really one of the only safe metals for them. Research the heck out of your cage and make sure that if it uses a powder-coating it is truly non-toxic. Birds can get metal poisoning from playing with sketchy toys (many made in China do not adhere to best practices) and just mouthing things like money, bolts, locks etc can cause toxic impacts...A man I know allowed his bird to play with un-used toothbrushes and (unbeknownst to him) there were small copper bits that held the bristles in place-- this nearly killed his bird even though the bird didn't actually swallow the pieces. Copper, zinc, nickel, some iron, lead etc are all toxic. Chicken wire and most screens= bad news.

ALSO- AND NEVER EVER BUY A BABY THAT IS UNWEANED!! IT WILL NOT HELP YOU BOND BETTER. THIS IS A MYTH!!!! SERIOUSLY!
 
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Laurasea

Well-known member
Aug 2, 2018
12,593
10,702
USA
Parrots
Full house
Hello, and Welcome
I can tell you the number one thing i wish I knew before parrots ,was how much they poop, and how messy they are. They poop about every 10-15 min.....so its lots of poop...if you let it dry it has superglue powers and is hard to get off of stuff, ugh!! On mess, they fling food, waste food, loose little down feathers that get everywhere, seed shells fly everywhere, chewed up toys or your stuff makes mess.

Then there is noise. They like to make noise as the sun comes up, or when you watch a movie, or try and talk on the phone.... or just for fun, or because they are unhappy

You can't chain them to a Perch no way! They are as intelligent as toddlers to a five year old, and all creatures have the right to move their body under their own choice. Just imagine yourself tethered and only able to move a few inches, how many hours could you take that without going insane, having your muscles and joints start cramp and seize up, with pressure soars on your feet from standingin one spot...
I'm so sad that you came across anything that promotes this....

This is a good article i share , ( all the time )
https://lafeber.com/pet-birds/stress-reduction-for-parrot-companions/

" To put it bluntly, keeping companion parrots is similar to trying to pound a square peg into a round hole. The fact that they do as well as they do is testimony more to their adaptability than it is to our husbandry efforts. Still undomesticated, parrots evolved to fly miles every day, have unlimited social contacts with other flock members, forage for food of their own choosing, bathe in a manner and spot of their own choosing, remain active throughout the day shredding plant materials, and mate and raise their own young. Even in the most benevolent of homes, this same parrot remains for hours a day in a cage, eats food of our choosing served at times convenient for us, is dependent for stimulation and activity upon us, is unable to breed and rear young, and receives limited social interaction."
 
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fiddlejen

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2019
1,232
Media
11
1,156
New England
Parrots
Sunny the Sun Conure (sept '18, gotcha 3/'19). Mr Jefferson Budgie & Mrs Calliope Budgie (albino) (nov'18 & jan'19). Summer 2021 Baby Budgies: Riker (Green); Patchouli, Keye, & Tiny (blue greywings).
Hi all,

To start with we don't have a parrot yet so we are doing our due diligence to see if a parrot is right for us. Please excuse me if my questions sound "stupid", we are less than noobs....

There are no kids in our household and we have a large lanai area where I think would be good for a parrot.

My questions:
1. Is there one breed that makes less noise than another?
2. Would having a parrot help deters pesty birds/pigeons from coming around (we have bird poop you won't believe)?
3. If we are to let him out of the cage, I guess that would mean allowing them to run around INDOORS? Should I assume not to let them loose, say in the lanai or the backyard?
4. If we have a perch in the lanai (outside of the cage), would they enjoy "hanging out" on the perch? And would a restrain (say, a chain) be considered inhumane and a no-no?
5. Are parrots good riding inside a car? (I imagine in a smaller cage)
6. Is it always better to have 2 parrots so they are less lonely?

Thank you so much and I apologize for my naivety.


(1) There are indeed breeds that are In General less noisy than others. For example, budgies can be loud but they are small so that somewhat limits their volume. Sun Conures and their Closest relatives are often Louder than Green Cheeks and their related types. I understand Pionus may be more quiet than some, whereas all types of 'Toos are well known for Extreme Excessive Loudness. HOWEVER every bird is an individual, and any individual of any species may be far louder or surprisingly more quiet than expected. Definitely no guarantees regarding decibel level!

(2) If you don't want bird poop then you don't want a bird.
(2a) See (2). !!!!!!!
(2b) To get rid of Other Birds, aka uninvited avian wildlife your best bet would be a Hawk, Eagle, or Owl.
(2c) To Most Effectively eradicate said avian wildlife, as well as any other pesky wild creatures, forget about keeping birds and get an F1 Savannah Cat instead.
((*2b&c) Special permits or lawbreaking may be required, possibly both. )

(3). Correct. Except, substitute the word "fly" for "run." Also plan to start locking all doors and doing birdie-checks before opening any doors or windows. All doors and ESPECIALLY windows need screens if you ever open them, even slightly, to catch breezes.

(4b) Chains are bad. I understand they are still in-use in some parts of the world. However they are very bad. Can lead to broken legs if a bird is startled by a sudden sound or anything. Also if chained in an open area can leave a bird susceptible to predator-attack and unable to escape. Leg leashes are also not-good for same type reasons.
(4a) Are you going to screen-in your lanai? If so I am sure your bird will Love it! Or you could put an aviary out there. Or get a cage which is movable, or a secondary smallish cage for travel. Or harness-train your bird. IF the lanai remains open to the outside (ie unexpected predators, which could even include a neighbor's kittycat), then you must stay with the bird at all times while he is outside enjoying himself.

(5) My own Sunny LOVES riding in car. She usually travels inside her Petsfit Carrier (from Amazon), which is like a Caitec only less expensive with less options. I have also simply put her smaller-cage in the the front seat she loves that too. My budges are more like, meh. I did see a Birdtricks Video where she talked about having the birds traveling when they are younger so they get used to it. (My Sunny simply loved it from the beginnning. She is a real backseat driver!)

(6) This depends what you want from your bird and how much time you have to spend with it. I understand that some european countries feel it is cruel to keep just one bird alone. ??(not sure about this)?? IF you get two birds they are more Likely to bond to each other instead of you. On the other hand there is No Guarantee. They might hate each other and then you will need to allow sufficient one-on-one time with yourself for Each of the birds. For these reasons, in most cases, many folks here would recommend only get a second bird if YOU want the second bird; don't get a bird-for-your-bird. But exceptions do apply. For example, maybe you want is a beautiful bird to Look at more than to Interact with as a pet. IF SO, put in a nice big aviary, get a couple or even several birds. Or a bunch of budgies. Etc. :)
(6a) Whichever type bird you get or how many, make sure they have a nice Big cage to live in. Bigger than you probably think is needed. :) Be careful to get the correct bar-spacing for your type of bird.
 
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Scott

Supporting Member
Aug 21, 2010
32,673
9,792
San Diego, California USA, Earth, Milky Way Galaxy
Parrots
Goffins: Gabby, Abby, Squeaky, Peanut, Popcorn / Citron: Alice / Eclectus: Angel /Timneh Grey: ET / Blue Fronted Amazon: Gonzo /

RIP Gandalf and Big Bird, you are missed.
Welcome and deep respect for researching rather than impulse purchase! (yes, people do that!)

Superb answers and perspectives above, once you narrow the search to a few species our sub-forums will give you greater insight into traits and characteristics. Good luck with the education and search, we're here to assist!!
 

Jottlebot

Member
Aug 29, 2012
507
14
Shropshire, UK
Parrots
Orange-winged Amazon - RIP Charlie,
Spock - Common Mynah,
McCoy - Alexandrine
Just to add, the length and depth of the answers above are just an indication of the amount of effort needed to properly care for a bird! I wish I had known that the experience is ever-changing. It feels like one challenge after another and there seems to be very little settled time unlike every other animal I have ever had!
 

GaleriaGila

Well-known member
Parrot of the Month 🏆
May 14, 2016
15,072
8,807
Cleveland area
Parrots
The Rickeybird, 40-year-old Patagonian Conure
Welcome! And congratulations on having the intelligence and resolve to reach out and research all these questions. Ohhhhhh, if only I had had your judgment and planfulness...
I hope you'll stick around and continue to share your journey with us.


9lhIlM0.jpg
 

Cycletim

Member
Mar 22, 2020
114
16
Ventura, California
Parrots
Jasper Congo African Grey,
Grover Red bellied parrot RIP 10/20,
Red bellied parrot Rheya
Welcome, they are a lot of work. More than dogs and cats for sure. They are messy more than dogs and cats. They are beautiful and hilarious a laugh per minute. Keeping them happy is key and this forum is a great way to find answers. If I could give rookie advice it would be do not buy seeds to feed them. Their diet is a big part of the puzzle. Also, the more they are out of the cage the better. Good luck, try to adopt if you can. Lots of birds need homes.
 
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noodles123

Well-known member
Jul 11, 2018
8,145
472
Parrots
Umbrella Cockatoo- 15? years old..I think?
Welcome, they are a lot of work. More than dogs and cats for sure. They are messy more than dogs and cats. They are beautiful and hilarious a laugh per minute. Keeping them happy is key and this forum is a great way to find answers. If I could give rookie advice it would be do not buy seeds to feed them. Their diet is a big part of the puzzle. Also, the less they are out of the cage the better. Good luck, try to adopt if you can. Lots of birds need homes.

"The less the are out of the cage the better"?
They really should be out often (like...3+hours a day in most cases)-I feel like I am reading this wrong. Did you mean something else?
 

Cycletim

Member
Mar 22, 2020
114
16
Ventura, California
Parrots
Jasper Congo African Grey,
Grover Red bellied parrot RIP 10/20,
Red bellied parrot Rheya
Yes I need to edit that thanks. The more they are out of the cage the better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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