Quetki

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Sep 23, 2022
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Canada, Alberta
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Violet Green Cheeked Conure
How can I stop my Conure from biting? He gets jealous of every object I hold. I can't wipe up his poop without him come running and biting to the point of bleeding. He does the same when I hold remotes, phones, bottles, etc. I've been told so many different things. Ignore the behavior or say "no" in a firm voice. Nothing I do works. My hands are covered in tiny bruises and bites. Ever since I introduced him to the other bird I feel like he's been a lot more mean. The other bird shouldn't be a problem anymore as it is not in my hands anymore. I really need help. Sometimes I can't even pet him without him biting me hard. He loves pets. Always asks for them.
 

maddox

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Maddox is a green cheek conure
I ran into a similar issue with Maddox, and believe me; I know it is frustrating. The number one thing you need is patients because correcting this will take time but is doable. The best thing is to refuse to give him attention when he bites. I know you mentioned that ignoring the bitting didn't help a whole lot but keep it up! With Maddox, I would blow gently in his face when he bit, which helped a ton. Another thing to keep in mind is to reward good behavior, this, as well as negative reinforcement, will help correct the bitting. Good luck!
 

bonitabird59

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Apr 12, 2022
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is he a gcc? they unfortunately communicate a lot by biting/beak pressure. they also get jealous of objects we use like phones so id just not use any around him
 

KingaRoo

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Aug 27, 2022
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Kingsley(Pineapple Green Cheeked Conure), Ricky Roo(Red Crowned Kakariki), Oscar (Yellow & Green budgie -PASSED OCT2023), Vincent (White and blue Budgie)
Kingsley doesn't seem to have much of a problem with biting. He only bites when I'm trying to get him to get off of a family member's shoulder or when he's scared or confused by something. sometimes when he's with me while I'm doing school work he does bite when I try to type something. But that's probably just because he thinks I'm trying to grab him.
 

HeatherG

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Apr 25, 2020
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Huh. Well, Willow just ran up my arm and sat holding the thumb that’s holding the phone. I’m glad that he only grabs my fingers when he wants a pet.

I am wondering if you could hold your conure in a room away from your new bird so he’ll be less excited? Or only hold him when he’s calm, or for shorter periods of time? Jasper Meyers also bites me if I pay attention to something besides him and I have just decided when I hold him (her?) that I will only pay attention to jasper. But that limits the time I can spend with Jasper to only when I can focus completely on him.
 

wrench13

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Shunning. Look it up. Its how parrots in the wild chastise unruly youngsters in the wild. Best done with a parrot that is both bonded to you and is not able to just fly off when the lesson is in progress. This method WILL work, if done 100% CONSISTENTLY BY ALL.
 
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Quetki

Quetki

Member
Sep 23, 2022
44
45
Canada, Alberta
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Violet Green Cheeked Conure
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Shunning. Look it up. Its how parrots in the wild chastise unruly youngsters in the wild. Best done with a parrot that is both bonded to you and is not able to just fly off when the lesson is in progress. This method WILL work, if done 100% CONSISTENTLY BY ALL.
I searched "shunning parrots" and I couldn't find anything. Is there a specific thing I should write?
 

HeatherG

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Apr 25, 2020
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If you look up “shunning” using the search function on this website you will find what wrench is talking about. Basically when your bird bites you, you set him down in a boring place like a chair back, and turn your back to him for a few minutes. This is called “shunning”.

It’s also important to notice when your bird is getting really wound up and put him down so he can calm down BEFORE he bites you.
 
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Quetki

Quetki

Member
Sep 23, 2022
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45
Canada, Alberta
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Violet Green Cheeked Conure
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If you look up “shunning” using the search function on this website you will find what wrench is talking about. Basically when your bird bites you, you set him down in a boring place like a chair back, and turn your back to him for a few minutes. This is called “shunning”.

It’s also important to notice when your bird is getting really wound up and put him down so he can calm down BEFORE he bites you.
I guess this is a good idea, but I feel like he will get into trouble if I don't supervise him. I will try this though.
 

HeatherG

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Apr 25, 2020
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Why don’t you search for “shunning” on this website and get some more information?

I don’t think you are supposed to ignore the bird for very long; just a few minutes.
 

wrench13

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Sorry I was so abrupt - busy. SHunning is done when you are SURE the bite is not your fault for not noticing the signs of over stimulation or other signals.

SHunning. Immediately say "No Bite", not loud but focefully, and IMMEDIATLY put the bird down on a handy chair back or other neutral spot. NOT his cage. Turn your back to him for 1 minute. no longer. Any longer and the lesson will be lost. No eye contact at all, and no talking about or to the bird. After 1 minute you can reapproach. THis must be done EVERY time and by all who work with the bird. Most parrots get the message after a few times, but may take longer. This absolutely works if done correctly. and dilligently.

Good luck.
 

Elviraion

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Oct 21, 2022
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26
GA
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Turquoise Yellow-Sided Green Cheek Conure
Moon Cheek -- Green Cheek Conure
If you look up “shunning” using the search function on this website you will find what wrench is talking about. Basically when your bird bites you, you set him down in a boring place like a chair back, and turn your back to him for a few minutes. This is called “shunning”.

It’s also important to notice when your bird is getting really wound up and put him down so he can calm down BEFORE he bites you.
The term "shunning" in the parrot world is new to me but, I am gonna hop on the bandwagon and give my 2 cents because I'm kinda in the same camp.

Elvira (GCC) used to be quite the chomper. The first thing I did was use a braided rope for her to step up onto from outside of her cage or from the top of her cage onto me. I did this because this was almost 100% of the times when she'd start chomping. That helped quite a bit because she does get very excited to come out of her cage so the braided rope gives her that "safe outlet."

So, then I noticed her biting stopped breaking skin but she was still pinching and actually learning that if she pinched "not as hard" that she wouldn't get put back onto the top of her cage (CLEVER BIRD!!!!!) So I started raising the bar (pun intended) slowly in showing my distaste for her "non-bleeding-pinches" by just rolling my hand, arm, finger, or whatever she was on, onto something and walking off for a minute. Then I would return and resume interaction with her. I didn't realize that this is what is called "Shunning," but I was actually using what I used to train the puppies that I have raised to stop nipping and biting.

Another tip from me, they KNOW they can rile you up, but if you make your reaction to the bite low-key and "immediate consequence" (shunning), they will learn very quickly.

Make being on you and around you positive by offering a lot of favorite treats that you do NOT provide them inside their cage. So they learn that being shunned means they don't even get the treats they want.
 

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